tommy1

We have a free online meeting Monday, Oct. 6, 2014 from 6:00pm to 8:00pm (Central Time). If you would like to attend, then please send me an email using my email address shown in my signature. Feel free to call me if you need more information. Sincerely,

Another work around you could experiment with is to do a "view to cad" of the plan view. Now draw a marquee around the interior walls and doors and delete them. When done, depending on how you're doing the site plan, send that view back to a site plan layer set/ annotation set. Not sure if you know where I'm going with this. You could also do your site plan in that cad detail. Just food for thought. Then send that view to a layout to whatever scale you want.

We only use call outs for the new windows and doors and are in the schedule. Existing windows and doors show nothing and are not in a schedule. We do note in the elevations what's new and existing.

Lew, the corner handles do move it concentrically except when you do a right click. In previous versions, the side handles would shrink the image (not concentrically). In X6, when you drag the side handles, it crops it (which I like and it didn't do that before). I like this much better.

Read it closer Lew, you need to right click. Then it works.

Thanks Glenn. That's the trick!

It used to be that if you imported a jpeg of lets say a survey into the plan view, you could drag the sides (not the corners) and reshape the image. In X6, it only crops it. Is there any way to make it work like it used to by dragging the sides? TIA,

Jim, I don't think you can change the embedded (not sure if embedded is the right word) ceiling heights of the 2nd. floor on up unless you build blank floors as mentioned. I don't know why Chief changed their default 1st. floor to a 9' ceiling? It didn't used to be that way in earlier versions (like X2 and earlier). I have already changed it to an 8' 1st. floor ceiling in my profile plan.

Concentric jump is the way to go.

Jim, I just placed 4 brick walls, added a window, made the exterior casing 2" and recessed it. Everything looks okay like it should (it didn't before). I didn't try other different scenarios.

I agree. I also generally dimension the exterior too manually. I can save a lot of un-necessary dimension strings and arrange them like I want. Editing auto dims can take a lot of time depending on the plan.

Please read Joe's last post again. If you still don't follow, then give me a call or email me and I'll do a quick online meeting and demonstrate it for you. I'm walking the dog right now for a few minutes so if you call and I don't answer, call me cell- 832-754-6160.

This is exactly right if you're wanting to change the "cad block" which is probably what you want instead of the label. I have seen many people show the electrical labels in plan view too which I don't show. BTW, if you want to know some other tips about the electrical cad blocks you see in plan view, then give me a call or email with a number to call you with. I did respond a while back from an email you send back when you posted help on Linked-in. Might also consider taking advantage of our user group (Houston User Group). We're there to help and try to answer any question you might have. We have people from several states joining in. It's free.

Go to the cad block management to find the cad block. This wasn't mentioned.

I usually use solids. Yes it takes longer but to me it looks more realistic....especially when the tile is done with lathe and screen for existing older showers. I also have a bullnose trim I use for the edges.

Be sure you have the carport in a blank plan by itself first.

Geez, this can be done in 5 minutes.

I personally would use slabs in plan view (change material) and adjust the heights in an elevation. Just another way to do it. Either way is very fast.

Scott is correct. Vector view doesn't look right in the corner but you can do a view to cad and fix it.

Perry, this is how it frames doing it the way I do it. No wall framing editing prior or after. I'm sure other people do it differently but this method is easy for me working with just the window only. It seems to frame okay.

It matched the size from Lowe's here back when I made it several years ago. Things change.

Joe, mine looks fine no matter which one I use on my computer. Don't know why you're seeing black.

The slab dividing it can be removed. That's beside the point anyway.

Heather, here is an example of how to make two windows join together. I did this example at our user meeting. Call me or email me if you want to know how I did it. I did no changes to the wall framing. Windows only. I can show you online. I put a slab between the windows to represent a metal piece to fasten the two pieces of glass.

Heather, I have found a way to do this when making the bay window manually. (I'm doing this on a job I'm working on now) I'm going to demonstrate this tonight at our user meeting. To make a frame around it, well that will need to be done manually but the glass will butt in the corner. The window is in the middle of the wall. I'm doing this using X6.