Bill_Emery
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Everything posted by Bill_Emery
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Hi Perry, I think it depends on whether you want it vertical, or perpendicular to the rafter.
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I use lookouts edited to the size of the purlins that are lowered to just below the rafters. Just stretch them across the width of the roof plane. I use the transform replicate tool if I have multiple purlins.
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Did you import any hatching? Hatching breaks down into small bits and pieces when imported, and can really slow things down.
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Mick, you can use the "reduced truss", without checking "end truss"; but you'll have to change your gable wall definition to keep it from framing. I change the main layer to "opening, no material" and give it a thickness of 1 1/2" so it aligns with the truss. this way no wall framing is generated in the gable end.
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Mick, If you don't want the gable end framing to generate, you'll have to check "end truss" when you open the DBX for the truss at the gable
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Curt, Here I've drawn a 30 foot and a 40 foot building with a 6/12 pitch, and 24" overhang. I've raised the roof 10 7/8" as I described in my earlier post. This method gives me the cant, and the vertical strut in both buildings. The cantilever and vertical strut at the wall top plate will generate if the heel height is adjusted so that the bottom most tip of the top chord, and bottom of the bottom chord are at approximately the same height.
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Mick, The cantilever and vertical strut at the wall top plate will generate if the heel height is adjusted so that the bottom most tip of the top chord, and bottom of the bottom chord are at approximately the same height. I think Curt may have hinted at this when he said that all of the heel heights are set to 14" The truss can be edited to get a similar result when the chord heights don't align, but its not as clean.
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A typical outside corner can be done with a double wall. The first wall has the framing layer and drywall on one face, and the second wall is just drywall. The radius is created at the corner in the second wall. It takes a little time to set up, but it can be copied and pasted around the plan. The radius wrap at the windows can be achieved in an automated way through the creative use of window attachments. I use a custom symbol that is applied as a "blind". I can elaborate in the morning if want to pursue this. There is no perfect solution, but these methods work well once set up.
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Is There A Way To Trim/extend P/solids In Elevation View?
Bill_Emery replied to HumbleChief's topic in General Q & A
Here in Western Oregon (seismic zones D1, and D2) continuous sheathing is the most practical way to achieve wall bracing requirements using the prescriptive method. Almost every home is continuously sheathed. I will occasionally use segmented bracing when I can use it to my advantage. -
I'm visiting in Pennsylvania this week, but would be glad to go over it with you next week. It does get a little complicated with the sizing, origin, etc. I do like Perry's method best, and the radius stucco wrap can be used with Perry's method too.
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I have the OS and Chief on the C drive, and plan and layout files in the D drive with no problems.
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A few more thoughts: Windows 8, with its tight integration with OneDrive, OneNote, and Dropbox has changed the way that I work. All of my important files are synced between all devices including my phone. OneNote is the killer app for the Surface Pro. One note was originally designed back in the early 2000's for windows original tablet operating system that predates the IPad significantly. OneNote provides an easy way to organize job notes, and personal notes. OneNote is useful on any device; but it really shines on the Surface Pro. One note is optimized for touch, but really excels when used with the included stylus. I'm not using pen and paper anymore for notes. OneNote recognizes my cursive handwriting and converts it to text. I'm never searching for notes; they are all searchable and organized; and everything is synced across all devices. The touch screen is useful, and very compelling; it's frustrating to work on a non touch screen once you've experienced touch.
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I'm running Chief on a mid range Surface Pro 3 (!5, 8GB RAM, 128 GB SSD). Chief runs fine on this system. The integrated video card works surprisingly well. Here are a few thoughts: The 3:2 aspect ratio, and the high resolution of the screen make the workspace feel much larger than one would expect for a 12" screen. The general workability of the screen feels more like a 14 or 15 inch screen if you have good eyes. I generally use it with the mouse and keyboard when using Chief. I will have it folded flat open for jobsite meetings so everyone around the table can see it. It replaces my 17" laptop for travelling, and jobsite work. It really simplifies the logistics of going to meetings; I just pick it up and go. It's the same size as the clipboard that I carry everywhere. It's possible to view drawings in tablet mode; but for any serious work I attach the keyboard, and the mouse. I use a Logitech Bluetooth mouse that easily slips into my pocket. I use it in tablet mode every morning while I drink my coffee, and check the news, emails, and the latest on ChiefTalk. It's also my companion in the evening as I read before going to bed. It's heavy and bulky by tablet standards, but I've gotten used to it, and hardly notice the size and weight now. The keyboard feels natural to my hands, and the feedback is quite good for such a thin keyboard. I would not use the !5 as my primary machine for Chief, but could see using an !7 with a docking station as my only computer.
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Michael, Perhaps I'm misunderstanding. The original poster asked how to raise the cutting plane to seven feet. I just described how that can be accomplished.
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Use a pony wall set for 7 feet. Show upper wall. Turn off doors and windows if it gives you the effect you need. You can control the cutting plane somewhat with the pony wall.
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We operate out of the Residential Specialty Code, which is a less strict than the IBC. All commercial is governed by the IBC in Oregon. Most states allow the use of the Residential Specialty code; but not California.
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This was a tract home, and they were just using the bucked windows, on the street side. The entry door, and the garage door were also bucked. I work in seismic zone D1; but was impressed by the number of hold downs, straps, A35, and ESR2523. Another striking difference is that we're not required to use sprinklers yet.
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Here is proof of the existence of bucked windows. I'm a t a conference in Rocklin, Ca. and had to slam on the brakes as I passed a construction site.
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Window symbols are a portion of the program that is broken; unless you want a garden window. It might be good to post a picture of what you want to achieve; as it might be better done using a different method.
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When I set the defaults on floor 1 to Decimal Foot, and Quadrant bearing; the Cad Default only applies to the current floor; and not to any other floor, nor to sections and elevations. I tend to keep my plot plan live; and the CAD Default has not been a problem for me; but I don't use "show Length", and "Show Angle" for much except plot plans. One thing that has been a problem is the inability to alter the placement of the text, as sometimes thing will get crowded, or overlap.
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You can show individual component labels for a block or mull. It's under the label tab of the window DBX. This is also possible with doors, and cabinets.
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Ca Is Showing Mistakes That The Architect Didn't See In Revit
Bill_Emery replied to Electromen's topic in General Q & A
The contracting business is a little like the military, there is a chain of command. It's my job to report problems to my immediate superior. The question for me to ask is "To whom am I directly responsible?" Is it the home owner, the Architect, the general contractor? The hierarchy of the contracts will generally establish the path of responsibility. When the guy with the shovel digging the footings sees a problem, it's part of his job to report it to his immediate supervisor, and it will be reported as far as necessary to find a solution. -
This is a single wall method, but is more complicated than my usual drywall wrap. I've had to use a pass through (with the stucco wrap attached as a Blind) and a window; sharing the same opening. b window plan.plan
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I don't know if this meets your needs, but I said I would post the plan. The stucco wrap stretches nicely as the window is resized. A limitation of this method is that if wall thickness, or frame size changes, the symbol must be adjusted through its DBX. stucco wrap (blinds) 3.plan
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I've got to go to a job site, but will post the plan and details later. It's a standard 2x6 wall with stucco, with the window frame recessed. It's a molding converted to a symbol, and applied as a blind. It can be a little tricky to set up; but once you have the window in your library it's mostly automatic, as it will stretch with the window.