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Everything posted by GeneDavis
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Are you wanting a textured clapboard siding material? Surface as seen with James Hardie "Cedarmill" or LP Smartside? If so you'll need a seamless image of lapping boards. Show us how your solution looks.
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AFAIK, auto-gen roofs spring from roofs and the roof directives in the wall spec are what make the roof planes. I don't see walls that can used. The upper part of your feature is a dormer, and you can use dormer tools to generate something there to get you started, but I think you'll need to do editing to bring the roof gable overhang down to the lower porch roof.
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Second Story Deck with Exterior Deck Stairs to Ground
GeneDavis replied to 7thStudio's topic in General Q & A
Simplify it. Outdoor decks with stairs are not drawn using stairwells to chop structure. Draw the deck with the corner chop-out where the stairs go, draw your landing, then connect with the two runs of stairs.- 1 reply
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I agree with Rene, but don't understand why those would cause such a slow render. It's slow on mine. What is the workaround? Do the fireplace all in solids?
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Is this, to use your term, an elevated gable?
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How is the label offset supposed to work for doors?
GeneDavis replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
Thanks for the feedback, Joe. Your preference for label on swing side made the lightbulb click ON in my head. I now understand Alan's @Gawdziraterm innies and outies terms. Innie is label inside the swing arc (your term: to the actual swing side) and outie is the side opposite swing. Let's hope we get a change in X17 to make this a setting in defaults so no editing is needed to place offset labels. -
How is the label offset supposed to work for doors?
GeneDavis replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
So I drew a rectangular house exterior and four interior walls, two vertically, two horizontally. The walls drawn vertically, one drawn from top down, one from bottom up. Same for the horizontal walls, one drawn L to R, the other R to L. And the offset for the interior door labels, one door placed in each of the four walls, was set in the default to be plus 12". The labels all are placed on the right side of the wall. Imagine you are the cursor being placed and dragged to make a wall. You are looking forward during the drag move. Right side of wall is to your right. So that info in the help files about label placement should be clarified. The "object" spoken of for label placement is not the door (or window or slider or passthrough, etc.) but the wall itself, and the right side of a wall is set when it is drawn, click-drag-release. And that label, when placed, stays there if the door is edited for swing or side or both. And the easiest way, this for interior doors only that go into interior walls with same finish layers both sides, the easiest way to flip the label R to L is to select not the door, but the wall, and then click the wall reverse layers button. -
How is the label offset supposed to work for doors?
GeneDavis replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
Thanks, @DBCooper. Take a look at this snip from the help manual. I don't get it for doors. -
Adding a foundation under a 1 story addition on 2 story house
GeneDavis replied to Elliot's topic in General Q & A
On floor level 0, with the reference floor showing floor 1 above, draw foundation walls, the frostwalls ("foundation walls") you want under the bedroom addition walls, where needed. Now go to level 1 and open the addition room and edit its structure appropriately, specifying that this foundation "room" supplies floor for the room above. Edit the absolute elevation of the floor level to what you want. I have presumed your "addition" has a slab floor structure. A section through things at this point might look something like what is shown in the pic, below. Now you gotta figure out what to do at the interface. -
I saw the post in Suggestions that revived the ask for door label positions that are right for innies and outies whatever that means. In this pic you see two interior doors D07 and D08 that I placed after going into the doors default and setting the label offset at plus 12" in y direction. The help manual implies the x and y axes are those of the symbol. Door D07 has a left hand swing and D08 is right hand. I placed both using the interior door tool and edited neither for swing. The labels placed when I placed the doors. Can someone explain the logic for me of how Chief placed the labels? A word, it's rather a question, about innies and outies. In my former life in the door biz, and having bought and installed lots of doors, exterior hinged doors are specified by both swing (in or out) and hinge hand (R or L). Interior doors are typically specified only as R or L. Latching hardware ("locks") for doors is a whole separate topic and is not discussed here in my post. So, for interior doors, what's an innie? Does in or out for an interior door mean the side the lock is on if the door is lockable?
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Ackshully , @glennw it turns out to be easier than that. Just extend the adjacent walls across their nearby bump-ins, autobuild the roof, and then unclick autobuild in the build roof dialog, and drag those wall ends back to where they were. You end up with a big chunk of the baseline out there in the bump-in where the wall was, but its a couple of quick clicks and drags to nip them back where they belong.
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I'm not gonna open your plan, but here is mine. I believe it meets the specs, pitch wise and roof-plane-arrangement-wise, as what the architect drew. Canada roof.plan
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I did a screencap of the roof plan view, pasted it into a new file, drew the perimeter walls, set all the needed roof directives in the needed walls, letting it autoroof as I went along, then in 3D (vector view, no color, toggle patterns OFF) edited the roof planes at rear (delete two and edit the one that has the eave line per plan) and here it is. The shed dormer needs to be done manually as auto-roof does not do dormers. What's the problem? And if any auto-roofing gurus are here in the room, tell us how you get this one to autobuild at the rear plane. Here is what the wall-jog at rear produces in auto roof. There is a wall jog of about two feet. The architect plan extends the overhang at the longer segment so there is one common roof plane as shown above. What do you do in Chief to make that roof plane generate as one (as edited by me) and not produce the two planes that I deleted.
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Post the Chief plan. Looks like the plans are done, job al ready for permit and build. Are you copying this for practice?
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Elevation Callouts Delete When Elevation Tab Closed
GeneDavis replied to Racergirl731's topic in General Q & A
@Racergirl731 we can help better when we know what software you are using, and the platform on which it runs. The four Chiefers who responded to your post all are showing their creds, as am I. You should do the same. Click on your name top right, go to SETTINGS, look for SIGNATURE, and enter your info and digits. Thanks. -
Nope. Walls are rectilinear. In your case I would do the wall as a wall, to the point of the bottom beginning of the lean-out, and only use a solid for the angled-out segment. Dashed CAD lines in a plan view and annotations with CAD details for the rest.
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Create s lighting set for each camera view? Be aware of maximum lights permissible in each view?
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Here you go. Get out your credit card and make room for this 78 Mb beauty.
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I am back because I think some more needs to be said about not this problem caused by somehow wall def getting improperly spec'd, but to comment on @Cadwork22Michael's larger problem, that of not knowing the most elemental basics of Chief. I downloaded and opened to explore the Barndo plan, and it is a very simple three bay two story thing with one single shed roof. But how it got built is kind of a mystery, and I did not want to waste time trying to imagine the sequence of walls, floors, etc. The plan, simply, is a huge mess of bad practice. In just a couple of minutes, I drew the a floor plan of something with the same footprint arrangement, drew interior walls to make it three bays, just let it all auto-roof from the OOB setup defaults, added a second floor accepting the same exterior perimeter, drew railing walls over the lower floor walls to create the balcony rooms, then specified the center room as "open below." All it then took to get the roof about right was editing the exterior walls for roof definition (slope, hip wall, gable wall, high shed/gable) and it autoroofed as wanted. Here is a glasshouse view of my quick build. One single roof plane, three rooms floor 1, two lofts with railings on floor 2, center bay open below. Michael got an answer here as to how to get the loft floors to generate, but he got no real direction about how to correctly build this very basic arrangement of rooms with the roof over he wants. Until he takes the time to learn, either by video and study and practice or zoom sessions with pros, he is still going to flounder. Posting badly-built models here and getting quick fixes for single-issue problems ain't a good learning process.
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Way back before even the first Apple PC, with computers the size of buildings, we second-year engineering students were all required to take a core course titled "numerical methods." The problem assignments, one per week, required we use the big Univac, but as for learning to code, we were on our own. One bought the Algol manual at the bookstore, and read it. With paper and pencil, I'd write out the code, take the notebook to the keypunch room, wait for a free machine, type out code into punchcards, then take my deck to the card reader, stand in line, get the deck read, then move to the printer for my output. One typo, one mis-sequenced card, or just plain code error, and your printout said, in computerese, "no good." Three unsuccessful tries in same day got you a printout with the message I've never forgotten: "Do not use Monte Carlo methods when attempting to code." Translation: read the manual, dummy. The message was probably some grad student's idea of a joke. @Cadwork22, you are attempting to learn Chief using Monte Carlo methods. Please spend more time with the manual, and watch the training videos. Get one on one personal training from a Chief pro. Do the work of learning. This thread shows us you haven't even fully grasped the concept of Chief "rooms," which is beginner-level stuff. A couple more like this, and everyone will ignore your threads.
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My go-to detail for wall cabs is to raise the deck (bottom) 1-1/4", overhang the door the same as the raise, pin a 1-1/8" light rail behind the door up against the deck, all this done readily with the frameless schemes I draw, and exposed ends ("gables" in cab-speak) get their bottoms extended 1-1/4" to match the doors at fronts. From my CAD detail library, here is a section showing the detail. In a run of two or more boxes with exposed ends, only the end gables get the extension. In the plan attached, a run of three cabs is modeled, and I want to know why the center box has voids at the front edge of the sides. This particular model has applied panels on the exposed ends, but the behavior is there whether or not the ends are paneled. End box right. Center box with voids at R and L front side edges. Raised deck cab run.plan
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OK I get that, DB. Thanks. But that's a mirror or reflect op. How does the corner CL help in a center-on move?
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Please give examples of its use. I'm clueless as to its benefits.
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Are we talking about the centering axis which appears when we click the centering tool after selecting an object?
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Automatically Truss Frame An Individual Roof Plane?
GeneDavis replied to HumbleChief's topic in General Q & A
Takes a single click to find out. Whadya get?