GeneDavis

Chief gives us SAME ROOF HEIGHT and SAME EAVE HEIGHT as options we can check for autobuild. Which do you want?

Make a 3 panel door symbol using solids. Takes a minute or two. Begin with CAD detail from view, the elevation view of the cabinet, so you can match lines for getting the rail placements where needed. I might add a width stretch plane, but since the door height and rail placement is specific to the cabinet cluster, I would not bother with horizontal planes.

You can set that in General Framing Defaults for floor framing. There is presently no way to set rims for decks differently (width and material type) from floor framing, so unless you want to take the time to edit all deck rims in your final config to 1-1/2" P.T. lumber, you have to frame in this sequence, if floors (not decks) get engineered lumber rims. Set the floor frame rims to be 1-1/2" and P.T. lumber in the defaults, build deck framing, but do not build floor framing until after all decks are settled for size, elevation, etc. Now with decks framed, lock their framing by turning off autoframe for decks, locking their layers, and only then change the framing defaults back to however wanted for floor framing. You can now build floor framing.

No. Look at the slab floor. Room is "porch."

Wrong forum. HD Pro users have their own.

Hi @MarkMc How you doing? Sounds as if you, and maybe Rene, are way too deep into the weeds of Chief cabinets and labels for the original poster to get where they need. I am pretty sure the OP here, @BRDBRemodeling, is not a cabinet dealer. Their website shows them as a remodeling contractor, and their gallery pages for kitchens shows cabinetry that looks pretty industry standard. Nothing too custom. In the tiny market I am in, there are at most a half dozen places one can go where dealers have something to show, and every single one of those dealers save one will quote you your cabinet order in whatever brand you choose, at no charge, and work with you to see that the order matches your needs, including field-measuring, so that the job is done correctly. The one with the largest area for display has a designer that charges for your initial visit, and I know for a fact that she will quote based on drawings as I showed in the example above. I've seen the plans by the local architects and drafters and designers, showing kitchens and baths, and none are showing anything close to the detail I showed in my example. Somehow, all these jobs get bought and built, and somewhere in the chain between the builder and the cabinet factory, there is a person who interprets the info supplied and gets it into an order format the maker can build. That's the dealer's job. It would be nice if the OP would step in here and offer a little more info. The way the questions were phrased, it sounds as if the business has downloaded a free trial of Chief and wants to know how to get cabinet plans to paper for going to a dealer for quote and supply. The free trial version, if I recall correctly, does not include layout. Two pics are attached here. One is a render of the kitchen done from the plans and schedule info I showed above. There are similar arrangements shown at the OP's website. The other pic is from the website of the local dealer that charges you for the meeting (no matter what your plans show or how cabs are scheduled or called out), showing their brands.

@BRDBRemodelingplease describe why your con docs with kitchen plan views, annotated wall elevations, and cabinet schedules are insufficient for a cabinet dealer salesperson to quote and supply a package to the build site. Aren't you doing this? These are two pages from a set of plans for a kitchen remodel. Chief is not 2020 and never will be. There are over 40 training videos at the Chief site. Have you watched any? You've no signature line telling us what software you are using. Please write up your details so we can help you better.

I did this with solids, and no cushions.

Or no boards that are part of the fence, and make the panels with moldings.

Correction to me. And sorry for the bandwidth. Roof blocking works as lookouts, and you can multi-copy one down a slope in section view.

And lookouts are one framing type you cannot manually draw. Take a look. I tried drawing the dormer roof with a wider overhang one side, really wide, then reframed, and still no lookouts.

Type in a new number for "floor." May something like -30 inches, which equates to four steps down each 7.5".

Every deck is a "deck room" and in its spec dialog you can set its height. The outside staircase I show in this pic has two decks, and the bottom step is a slab that acts as the first step up off grade and the bearing for the stair stringer set. You need to learn to control stairs, their elevation locks, etc. You may need to do some 2D CAD workout to determine elevations.

You'll have to post the plan to get any help. Strip it of all its cabinets and fixtures, save it as "stripped," close the file, zip it, and attach it to your next post.

These guys, they're in San Antonio, do a lot of flat thin roofs with big overhangs. Money is no object. https://www.lakeflato.com/projects/houses And this summer house, built up in Wisconsin has thin overhangs, done using a combination of metal roof deck and douglas fir lookouts. https://residentialdesignmagazine.com/case-study-box-camp-by-sala-architects/ Here is another look at the Box Camp house. https://salaarc.com/project-types/featured/box-camp-bunkhouse/ Since Box House was built in a location with ground snow loads somewhat similar to the locale where I do work, I did a study of the structure using Sketchup to understand the details. Here is the whole thing (they have since added a guesthouse wing that is very cool). The structure begins with steel bents, the steel all exposed in the interior finish. I think it was CorTen but maybe just painted. The steel bents are there to support the I-joist roof structure over the conditioned spaces. Then comes the part that does the overhangs. First the 4x6 doug fir lookouts. Get out your wallet. Atop this goes the metal roof decking. Over all this is the tapered polyiso buildup that gives the membrane roofing the needed drainage pitch. The same Sala Architects partner that did the Box House project, did this little three-floor tower, one bedroom one bath mini kitchen with adjacent sitting area, also in Wisconsin. Note the same arrangement of timber lookouts and steel decking. https://salaarc.com/project-types/featured/metal-lark/

Try it and see what ya gotta do. Or am I doing it wrong. Place a fixed window in a tall wall, 2' w x 2'2" h. You're gonna mull and stack and the ribbon mull parts need 1/2" spacing. So copy and paste one adjacent, spaced 1/2 between. Mull. Your big stack is 5 high, so copy/space up 24-1/2" up to make your 2x5 stack. Mull as req'd to make one big unit In 3D camera, look close at the mull joints. They're all 1/2" proud. You want them all flush like the real-world end result. Now go about making them all flush, and report.

Give us some iterior camera views of the spaces with 32 feet of clearspan roof overhead.

See the three labels. They are not mulled.

This company makes open web joists and there might be hope at a joist depth of 20 inches. http://www.openjoist.com/spans.html#20 Consider doing a simple set of construction docs drawn with roof trusses drawn in a 20 inch cavity space for the large span roof, and 16 for all the smaller, then get it to a roof truss supplier locally and see what they say. I didn't look at your plan. Maybe only the big-span roof (is it really one big huge space under with no bearing walls at all) needs the trusses. The rest can be framed in various i-joist sizes. Download and learn to use Trus Joist's structural design app, ForteWeb. You will be able to design all the flat roofed houses you can dream up. Edit: I spoke too soon. Just opened up my ForteWeb page, opened a new file named Maricopa after checking to see if there was a snow load (it is zero) and set the clear span at 32' then let the app do some work for me. As you can see, one of their 16" deep models does it just fine at 24" spacing.

Materials>Sheet Metal>Ribbed You are getting a 2D material surface, "textured" with lines depicting ribs. It will show the texture in 3D renders, but close up you'll not see 3D corrugations. 2D views will show the pattern.

I drew a test building, placed three windows with 5" space between, a typical arrangement if wanting the post cover (casing between windows) to be a standard 5 1/2" width (one would pec the RO clearance at 1/4" for sides), then autoframed, and got no posts. If we want the framing to have the posts, we must manually edit to do so.

In my use of Chief for all the X's I can recall, the default separation controls how windows bumped together are separated. The Out Of Box (OOB) setting is 2". That separation has nothing to do with casing width or depth. Casing width comes into play only when bumping windows to a wall, and the window bump-stops when casings hit wall finish. What exactly is the problem? What will you be reporting to Chief as a suspected bug?

I'm more comfortable modeling furniture and lighting that have surface complexities, using my Sketchup Make 2017, which produces .skp format files that readily import into Chief. Your image of the chest did not make it clear to me what molding profiles are used in the "backsplash" surround, or in the bottom valance edging, which wraps the legs. But I could guess at it, and do the piece in fifteen minutes or less. The Thomas Moser counter stools shown in the pic attached have shaped legs that are angled, contoured leather seats, and seat rails that would be more work to do in Chief than in SU. The cube pendants with their curly power cords would be tough, also, unless you want linear cords, which would not look real to me. There is a joke around here that certain Chief experts could model a banana using cabinets, but I am not one of them.

So, Joe, you've already built a floor 0?

You can learn about multiple stretch planes when doing this. It'll be fun and instructive.