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Everything posted by dshall
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The Best Renderings Available-Rabbitt Design
dshall replied to Renerabbitt's topic in Offering Services
Rene, you are one of the best, nice job! Are you going to UGM this year?- 23 replies
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I do not think they sent the wrong file over. This is the second time this has happened to me....... on X15....... when I try to import DWG info from a current version of an ACAD file, I do not get info...... the civil engineers has to export their info into a much earlier version of ACAD.... in this case it was a 2010 ACAD file, and then I can import info. You have verified my statement. BTW, when you imported the contour lines did you import them as ELEVATION LINES and when you did, did they have the elevation of the line ("smart topo lines")
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So they sent me another file and they backed off to 2010 CAD....... this time if I converted the topo lines to elevation lines they did not come in.... if I did not convert they did come in. oh the many mysteries of CA. Mick, if you haver a moment check it out and see if you get same results.... ACAD-4433 UPLAND ST - Client TOPO CAD - EXPORTED TO 2010 CAD.dwg
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Hi Guys, Importing DWG ACAD files into CA.... easy peasy back in the day.... but not now.... anybody else? I have attached a file. Would someone please see if possible to import into CA on a PC and then would someone import on a MAC? I ran into this issue about a month ago..... it was the latest ACAD version, I could not import, but when they backed it off to ACAD 2011 I could import. Is this a MAC thing? thanks 4433 UPLAND ST - Client TOPO CAD.dwg
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I have an Imac with an addional OLD monitor, no issues here. Thanks for heads up.
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hmmmmmm.... There is the new APPLE IPHONE 14 that came out this year.... and there is the new CHIEF ARCHITECT X14 that came out this year.... I am not a conspiracy theorist but is it possible that CHIEF ARCHITECT actually owns APPLE? Those guys at CA headquarters are really sharp..... I wouldn't put it past them......
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Space planner works from the inside of house out. I work from outside in. I get the perimeter of the house drawn with a CAD box.. I then draw all exterior walls and fenestrations. I then draw interior walls to create the rooms. If the interior room sizes fit inside the perimeter, I know I get a gold star. A big key for me is I get a running count of the front wall (all dimensions from front left corner, and if the total from those dimensions matches the running count of the back wall (all dimensions from back right corner, I get a silver star. I then do the same on the right side and compare to the left side. This way, my total lengths should not be off by more than an inch or two. The downside of this method is an assistant is needed, I stand at the corner and the assistant reads out dimensions in feet and inches at every door and window edge and always rounding down to nearest inch.
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That is a good question, what is fairly accurate? Within 1" error or 8" error? "but noticed when they stich things together, they start making the walls thicker and thinner or the room narrower or wider to try and make the outside correct." I bet this could be a big issue...... I think Mr. Rabbit said it best..... " Even if you use pattern targeting and photogrammetry the stitiching of multiple point shots will always introduce error as well.Not to mention the amount of data that would be required for 100% accuracy..simply not attainable at this moment to have accurate scans...then again it depends on what you consider "accurate"
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yea, you and I are same page, BTW, T-1 is typicallly a double truss……. C-1 is not a truss….. it’s a 2X6……. Truss chords are typically 2x4’s
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I use a 35' tape for exterior measurements, a level (rarely used), Bosch measuring device for inside dimensions, an Iphone for pics, graph paper to draw plans at 1/8" scale (no computer on site) and a very attractive assistant, my wife, (she retired last December) or her sister. It takes between 1.0 - 3.0 hours for a measure. Including initial research, measuring on site, creating as builts at the office and an hour at the driving range, it takes between 7.0- 16.0 hours. If all the little interior boxes fit into the exterior perimeter, I did a good job. Errors are within 1"-2". I do not trust the LIDAR method..... but I am open to someone proving me wrong. Go Padres!!!!(I become a hardcore Padre fan 9 days ago when they made the playoffs)
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When I went to the UGM in late August I discussed the trusses with the guys. I do not believe CA does trusses correctly...... at least the way we do it in the land of ........ CA believes that there is a HIP TRUSS..... a trusses that takes the place of a HIP BEAM. Does anybody else agree with me or do you guys do it the way CA creates hip set trusses? If you do not agree with me, will you please post a set of your truss calcs that detail a HIP TRUSS (takes the place of a HIP BEAM).
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If I am not mistaken, you want the Retaining Wall on footing at one side of foundation and a mono slab footing on the opposite side. This is the reason that I believe the floor plan of the walk out basement should be on level 1 (not level 0). If the walk out basement plan is on level 1, this allows the mono slab foundation to be on level 0. Now define all footings at level 0 to be mono slab footings and the retaining wall is defined as a foundation stem wall. A bit tricky.... probably very difficult to build auto so this is a manual build.
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For computing FAR, the stairs are counted twice. Whenever the ceiling height is greater than 15', the area is counted twice with the understanding it is possible to add a floor into that area. Isn't that interesting..... 2 experienced users have different understanding on how to tabulate floor areas. That is the purpose of this thread. I am dealing with a project in Coronado right now and we are trying to get ever s.f. of area we can so it is very important to understand what is floor area. It feels like I am always walking in a field of land mines.... if I do not get things dialed in just right, the next step will blow up the entire project.
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BTW, we count stairs twice out here. Basement stairs once. If you consider exterior finishes for FAR, do you include finishes for COVERAGE? rhetorical questions.
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This is the latest..... I am adding more floor area to an existing house, if I double the floor area on the project I have to use all electric, no gas ranges, so I need to keep the new floor area under the existing floor area so I can use a gas range. (remember we have a climate crises and if I use this electric range vs gas I will save the world). So how do I figure the new and existing floor areas according to the jurisdiction? Well it is obvious, you measure to the exterior face of existing studs at existing first floor but for the new 2nd floor addition you measure to the interior face of new studs at 2nd floor. (it's obvious..... right?). and then you do not include the new stairwell area at 2nd floor. I kept the new floor area under 100% of existing floor area by 6.387 s.f. My client can have a gas range and the world is saved and I can sleep at night! Ain't life grand?
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Yeah, that is what I have always done, but now I am finding some of the cities.... Solana Beach, Coronado, maybe Encinitas are using the exterior finish. This is driving me nuts. I wish Michael would come up with a SUPER MACRO that would adjust the floor area depending on which jurisdiction I am working in. Hey Michael, winter is coming, the snow will be falling, you will be stuck in your house with nothing to do, please work on this, thanks.
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FYI.
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Hi all, what is the definition floor area...... for minimum setbacks and FAR calculations etc. Do you measure to interior face of stud wall for area (edge of foundation)? Do you measure to exterior face of stud wall for area? Do you included the exterior finish for area? Do you include 2nd floor stairwells? When determining setbacks do you..... Do you dimension to exterior face of stud wall (the foundation) Do you dimension to the exterior face of finish? What about required 1-hour walls? Less that 5' to property line it needs to be one-hour..... but do you measure to the exterior face of finish or to the exterior face of studs? I am relatively new to the business (since 1974) so I am still learning, please help me.....