Joe_Carrick

This really points out why dimensions from floor to floor can't be relied on when using Lumber for Floor Joists. Green vs Dry can be 1/4" different. But if you think that's bad - Log Construction typically must allow for at least 2" shrinkage per Story/Floor and the Door and Window Openings need to allow for a minimum 1-1/2" shrinkage.

X7 allows multiple Framing Layers in a Wall Type.

Joey, Try this - use a 2" stud wall with a finish on only one side. Turn it back on itself as shown (3 segments). The Shower wall can then be moved freely without clipping the stud wall.

Keith, I'm also a descendant of the British. My ancestry goes back to the Rhode Island Colony in 1626. IAE, the 2x_ was originally 2" rough cut lumber Then at some point in time (early 1900's I think) they started planing them to make them smooth so that splinters were less likely. Hence the 1-3/4" size. About 1950-1960 they reduced it to 1-5/8". I'm not sure exactly how that came about but I believe it was about shrinkage as the lumber was dried after milling. In the 1960-1970 time frame they reduced it to 1-1/2" - probably just to save material (more yield per log).

There are a couple of possibilities: 1. Make the Garage just 1 Floor with the Ceiling Height equal to the 2nd Floor Ceiling of the rest of the structure. 2. Make the Exterior Walls at the Garage "Balloon Thru". #2 is the best solution IMO. You only have to do that for one wall. Chief will take care of the rest.

Keith, That 1/2" was lost incrementally. 2" 1 3/4" 1 5/8" 1 1/2" It's also interesting to note that the metric equivalents are not the same in all countries.

It would be a lot easier for the entire world to adopt the "Carrick Calendar" which is based on the lunar month than for the USA to adopt the Metric system of measurement. OTOH, we long ago adopted a decimal monetary system

Glenn, From that standpoint it's very easy. But from a standpoint of working between an Imperial and a Metric country it gets more complicated because the sizes of the manufactured materials are just not equal.

I remember 0.18/gallon. That was a few years after I helped Amenhotep build the Great Pyramid

That's a nice wish but be careful what you wish for. It would cause a lot of teeth gnashing when trying to do a remodel in the USA. All of our existing construction is based on 12" increments. (304.8 mm) which would be a b****h to work with. A meter is a nice module but I think (I could be wrong) most metric sheet goods are 1200x2400 mm (just under 4'x8'). Maybe it's 1220x2440 which is just over 4'x8'. IAE, it's not really as simple as just changing the units. Lots of manufacturing would have to be changed an a lot of old guys would need their brains re-wired.

Just a note: The "Room Box" edit handles work the way I would like "Square Post Footing" edit handles to work and vice-versa.

No, I made a boo-boo when entering the date - I fixed it in my OP.

My SSA is current until 8-30-2015. I may have to pay for the next year by 1-16-2016 to save $50.

Sherry, I found that you can make a room larger and then superimpose another room to "notch out" a corner to create an "L" shape of the underlying room. I would really prefer that the "Room Boxes" could be broken and shaped. IAE, once "Build Floor" is selected the walls can be edited. I still think it's a pretty good way to get a basic floor layout. OTOH, it wouldn't bother me - in fact I would prefer - if it didn't put any doors in since they usually aren't what I want and I just have to change them. BTW, I prefer to have the overall Floor (Exterior Walls) as a guide/constraint to placing the Room Boxes.

My educated guess would be that the Foundation (Floor 0) is being used as the "Reference" for the Basement Plan (Floor 1)

I've been experimenting with the Space Planner (not the Room Planner App) and have found it useful but in a some ways limited. 1. The Room Boxes can only be rectangular 2. Rooms don't allow for Ceiling and Floor Elevations to be edited 3. Once converted to Walls (Build Floor) the Room Boxes can be toggled back on but they do not reflect the current wall locations that have resulted from edits to the Floor Plan 4. Fills are not automatically transparent so current walls, stairs, etc tend to be hidden, making it difficult to edit the Room Boxes to match the Floor Plan. OTOH, I find that there is an advantage to using this tool to quickly get a basic configuration on each Floor.

I've had clients that pulled that kind of thing. But it hasn't happened to me in the last 40 years. The only way to avoid it is to be careful chosing who you want to work for. Get advance payments! Don't do any work until you've been paid for the next phase. You can break the project into segments with a specific fee or hourly rate. If the client won't agree to that arrangement then walk away before you start any work. The chance are that you'll get stiffed.

Send it to CA customer support.

I use a Layerset that has all layers locked except the Site (Terrain, Property Lines, Setback Lines, etc.). If a Terrain Feature is more related to the House (driveway and sidewalk connecting to the house, etc) then they are placed on a layer that is locked. Otherwise on a layer that's not. Then I can block all the Site Objects and move as a single object. Once I have it where I need it I can unblock. There's almost always something that needs to be adjusted afterwards but this is the easiest for me. Several years ago I had a project where there was a 50' utility easement adjustment that had not been reported and the house needed to be moved about 63' north. It was much easier to move the Site using the above method. I just moved the CAD Block with the mouse until I had it where I wanted it. It was a steep hillside and the house automatically adjusted to the new location on the terrain.

I don't find that it does. It seems to be a bit random, missing some walls (depends on furniture placements, appliances, fixtures, etc.)

David, 1. You failed to close the Plan before zipping it and attaching. 2. A pic (JPG or PDF) in this case would probably be better anyway.

There is nothing in the Wall that identifies the height. The Foundation Room does have an attribute called "stem_wall_height". YOu would need to divide the Floor 0 into several rooms in order to have any chance of doing what you want and I'm not sure it would be possible other than by using a "Room Label"

Brian, What you are calling Levels - Chief calls Floors. Floor 0 is the Foundation. For Grids, create them on any Floor and the Copy/Hold_Position to all the other Floors.

Here's the link http://www.screencast.com/t/jnlkuc4xlIfP

I'll try to find it. Perry posted the video