Joe_Carrick

I also use Dropbox but it normally installs on the "C" Drive which really doesn't save any space on that drive. Consequently I have moved it to the "D" Drive on all my systems. Almost all my plans and layouts are located in the D:/Dropbox folder. I've not yet tried putting the Library in Dropbox but I'm strongly considering it so that the Library would be constantly updated on each system.

Michael is correct in how to do this. But based on your original post I would have made the same recommendation without seeing the plan. The key information you gave was that you tried to edit the wall heights. IAE, posting the plan is always a good idea.

1. Make the 1st stair run (36" wide?) 2. Copy in Place 3. Rotate 180 4. Move 37.5" 5. Click Landing location. Personally I like more distance between the Stairs - it makes it easier to trim, paint, etc. It's also easier to make handrail transitions.

File->Print-> select a "PDF Printer" - or - "Chief Save as PDF" You must be doing something different.

Welcome Sean, I don't recall seeing your posts before this but I see that you have 10 since the new forum began. IAE, I find it very useful to see what's being said regularly - the Symbol approach to individual buildings in a development has been discussed from time to time and seems like the best way of doing it. That said, it's generally best to strip out everything inside the buildings before creating the Symbols. This minimizes the number of surfaces.

You mean like this?

BTW, a complaint or suggestion to CA about this wouldn't hurt. I know there have been previous suggestions about fixing the "intersections" but the more the better.

Like one or more Molding Polylines.

Yusuf's method is a great example of how to create 3D Faces by snapping to another 3D object. This can also be done by using (2) 3D Boxes as the snap-to objects. That way you only need to add the trapezoidal Faces. You could even use a truncated pyramid and explode it to create those Faces and then edit them by snapping to the boxes. The key to this editing is to have "Object Snaps" ON.

In that dialog, select Edit, then highlight the joist size (change the size if needed). The Structure Type drop-down box will be activated. You can select the type of framing there.

Edit->Default Settings->Framing->Foundation Edit->Default Settings->Framing->1st Edit->Default Settings->Framing->2nd etc

Val, A Ruby is a red gemstone. But in Chief Ruby is a scripting language that CA put in without everything needed to make it shine like a gem.

It won't work. Steve wants a 50"x32" base and a 10"x10" cap. That means the sides are at different angles so the molding profile isn't going to work.

Steve, That's a different problem. I would use some PSolids drawn in elevations as a starting point. Then use the Solid Addition/Subtraction Tools in a perspective view.

Johnny, Open the Deck Room dbx and fix the Floor Finish and Floor Structure. Currently you have them set to "0". You have to have something there if you want a floor and framing.

Pyramid Tool - Truncated

I don't get any crashes - on either a new plan or a plan brought forward from a prior version. Maybe they fixed this in the latest update.

Rod, Never give your own post a "Best Answer". That should be reserved for the response that answered your question best. ie: give credit where it's due.

It could be done, but I would just use the materials list since it can be set up for a room, floor or entire building.

Glenn, For those who might not want to use a materials list, the perimeter could be used to determine the total length of base, and crown moldings, etc. It's also useful in calculating the wall area of a room. Granted, this doesn't account for openings and isn't as accurate as the materials list but as a simple display it can be handy. Note that not all Rooms are simple rectangles and the size of the room doesn't necessarily provide a way to determine the perimeter.

It seems that it's just easier to use mm (a simple number with no separators and no decimals) and forget about all the formatting that is needed to indicate meters?

OK, so the rule is: Show it in mm (preferred) 10550 -or- Show it in m (only for values above 10000) 10,55 or 10.55 and if the number is 10000 then for m it would be 10, or 10. IOW when shown in meters show the separator but drop trailing zeros.

Glenn, So in OZ you use a period just like we would in the USA. In addition, you use up to 3 decimal places and drop trailing zeros - and for anything less than 10000 mm you display it as mm instead of m. This sounds like it could get confusing, particularly if you drop the m and/or mm. I'm working on a macro for my June 2016 subscribers (perimeter of any polyline based object) and it sounds like I'll need to provide a special version for OZ vs any other country. What about NZ? Do they use the same format as OZ?

Thanks Francois, m with 2 decimal places and naturally the decimal indicator is a comma.

BrownTiger, Chief can do superscript. You just have to do it in a Custom Macro - or use Chief's Special Character Macro. Basically, no one has answered my question so far. Assume a room 3050 mm x 4006 mm. The Perimeter would be 14112 mm. Would you note that as: 14112 mm 1411,2 cm 1411 cm 14,112 m 14,11 m 14,1 m 14 m I'm guessing that it would be the 14,112 m but that's just my guess.