Alaskan_Son

If you actually refreshed that view, then my guess is that you failed to check Use Edge Line Defaults when you originally sent to layout. Send it again.

No idea what you’re doing Steve. You shouldn’t have to mess with the Locate settings at all though. Those should only affect the behavior when dimensions are initially DRAWN. Your original post makes it sound like you don’t get snaps after the fact either. This just sounds wrong. Are you sure you’re not attempting to snap to footing in your reference display?

Plot lines need to be refreshed. Click Update View. Also, I would recommend you control those Edge Lines at the layer level, not by using Edge Line Defaults.

I really don’t know why either, but if I had to take a stab at it, my guess would be this: The OP essentially asked if we had default settings and you told him/her to adjust their default settings. In other words, although your answer was technically correct, you really just told them to adjust the thing that they couldn’t find in the first place.

Are you working with a CAD Block perhaps?

Open Symbol>Options

Here Eric, See if this works for you. I modified so that there are 2 different materials being used. One for the leaves and one for the berries. They're both set to Blend Color with Material so all you should have to do is adjust colors for the leaves and/or the berries separately. Its built out of 2 perfectly overlapping symbols so you'll likely need to make adjustments through the material tab instead of using the Adjust Material tool. Firethorn.calibz

You're welcome. Which one worked though? Or did you do all 3? I didn't actually make all the changes in your plan, but I'm pretty sure Item #3 would alleviate the need for Item #1.

How are you with Photo Shop? You can always edit that image to increase the size of the leaves and/or change their color.

Ah, I see.

3 things to consider: You can always select those tiny little 1/2" wide rooms and adjust the Structure settings for them. In order to get your walls to adjust properly, you'll need to open a bunch of them and check Default Wall Bottom Height. Once you adjusted some of them you turned off the Auto behavior so they'll stay too tall even after you make the proper floor height changes till you fix that. You can set those furring walls to Furred Wall in their Structure settings which should alleviate the need for that extra room.

With an Open Below room there is no floor platform. You should see in my example plan above that if you turn Auto Framing on, all the exterior chase walls automatically balloon frame anyway. Its only the partition wall between the house and chase that needs to be specified as balloon framed.

You can still use the same method if balloon framing. You might just have to check Balloon Through Ceiling Above for the partition wall, or at worst, you can manually modify a little framing in the Wall Detail(s).

Can you be more specific as to what you mean by this?

That is simply not a suitable model for Chief. I could convert it and reduce the number of faces/vertices, but no amount of reduction is going to make that a usable model in Chief IMO.

The best approach really depends on a lot of different specific details; for example: Certain objects like light fixtures, interior furnishing, wall hangings, and various other symbols can just be placed on different layers and then layers can be toggled on and off. Architectural objects like walls, windows, doors, roof/ceiling planes, etc. cannot reasonably be toggled using layers. There are a few minor exceptions, but for all intents and purposes, these kinds of changes need to be done either in multiple plans, on multiple floors, or in multiple instances on the same floor... You can keep everything in a single plan and on a single floor even by just copying and pasting any given portion of your plan (can be done rather quickly using edit area). If your different options involve multiple cabinetry configurations you can sometimes use layers to display multiple options, but this really only works of cabinets aren't occupying the same space. For all intents and purposes this almost never works. You can however convert any group of cabinets to a symbol and then you can use layers again. You can even save your cabinet configurations for later use by either saving as an architectural block to your library, dragging off to the side in your plan view, or cutting and pasting to a different floor. If your various options only involve changing cabinetry styles, then you may be able to use Style Palletes to both store and toggle your various options. For quick material changes, you may not even need to create multiple anything. Sometimes I find it faster to just make changes and export picture 1, make changes and export picture 2, make changes and export picture 3. Undo as necessary to get back to previous iteration if desired. Yes you may have to redo the changes later, but some quick changes are a lot more efficient to manage this way. For anything beyond real simple symbols and quick changes that can be made on the fly, I think its almost always easiest to use multiple plans or multiple floors. These 2 methods allow for the easiest transfer of options from one iteration to another using Cut/Copy and Paste Hold Position.

I'm curious why the hesitation to do something that could literally be done in a matter of seconds.

Not that I'm sure I'll have time anymore, but the conversation is almost always far more productive and efficient for everyone involved when you post a plan so everyone knows what you're doing. Sometimes the solution isn't to add a floor but to insert a floor. As I mentioned before, sometimes the additional floor is not necessary at all. We also don't know if you've manually messed with wall polylines or attic walls (both of which could screw things up), we don't know what your roof situation is (auto, manual, baseline polylines, etc.), we don't know what level you placed your windows on, and we don't know anything about what your various wall and room settings are....to name just a few things that come to mind.

No. I didn't do anything with the roofs. I have Auto Rebuild Roofs toggled on and for whatever reason Chief just places one of the cricket planes up on the 2nd floor.

Yes. Stop doing it that way and try my suggestion. Manually adjusting walls in elevation and manually adjusting Wall Layer Intersections will ultimately just lead to the aforementioned headaches later on.

Post the plan, or if you can't for some reason, email it to me and I'll take a quick look. Its usually pretty easily sorted using Select All and Fill Window tools though.

Don't use the experimental plans as actual working plans. Just play around with them to test things out.

No. My opinion is that this approach only ends in tail chasing induced headaches.

By the way, you don't always need the extra floor. It totally depends on the plan. If for example its a 2 story plan where the chase only extends up through a single story section of the plan, then the upper part of the chase (the Open Below room) can just go on the existing second floor.

Just do a Save As of your plan and try it. learning to experiment with TRASH plans is one of the most fundamental learning tools at your disposal.