Alaskan_Son

Not exactly all or nothing. Actually, if you go into your casing settings, turn the casing on, set it all to zero and then turn it back off, you can get the window to within 4" (the limit seems to be whatever the casing is set to plus 4". You can also resize the window after dragging it tight by making it smaller and get it to within 1-3/4". Then you can resize the window again (through the dbx) to get anywhere from 1-3/4" to 4". Once the spacing is set you can drag the window by the edit handle opposite the wall connection and resize it to what you want. Can't seem to get the window anywhere between 0" and 1-3/4" though. Very very funky.

Just read through the help file as Eric suggested and discovered there is another tool...CAD>Lines>Disconnect Edges that disconnects any line segments you select while the tool is active. Unlike Edit Object Parts, however, it only remains active for as long as you are using it to edit line work. Its sort of like a cross between Edit Object Parts and Select Objects (but specifically for line work) . I went ahead and added it to my toolbar. The new setup might take a bit of getting used to but I'm thinking I may actually prefer it over the way it was before. Just feels like it might be a bit more versatile and stable.

As far as I can tell, the Edit Object Parts function is gone. Connect CAD Segments seems to be more of a drawing tool and not an editing tool. In other words, with Connect CAD Segments active, all CAD that you draw is connected. Even if you deactivate the feature later, anything you drew while it was active remains connected unless you use the Disconnect Selected Edge tool. Conversely, anything you draw with the feature deactivated remains disconnected. It seems like it may be a general shift in the program's overall CAD functionality.

Your problem is that you're using a railing wall. I would probably do one of 2 things... 1. As someone else mentioned above, use normal walls and simply select the walls in elevation and drag them down. 2. Use a pony wall with a shorter normal wall on the bottom and a zero thickness wall on top using "Opening (no material)"

In addition to the advice above, you can also just use the simple zero thickness room divider...

I too usually just use wall material regions and then adjust the pattern and texture setting appropriately. Often times it requires several wall material regions and multiple copies of the same material with different settings for each, but its not too difficult to draw up pretty accurate tile layouts that way...

This is really a non-issue if you're just quickly visiting a job site where you have no internet access. I don't remember the exact time period, but using the software lock, you have something like a week to make an internet connection and sign in before the software is actually disabled. I personally go without wi-fi fairly regularly and I haven't had any problems to date with any "activation dance". When I finally DO have internet access, it takes all of about 15 seconds to sign onto my account and go through the deactivate and activate process. Really not a big deal.

You're totally welcome. Its a goofy little quirk for sure.

Is this what you're talking about?

It actually works just fine. Here's a quick crappy video. Just seemed easier to demonstrate than to describe. It's kinda weird... I didn't go over it in the video, but you can move the whole window and then resize it, however you cannot just simply resize the window.

No file attached. Make sure you remember to click "Attach This File" and make sure the plan is closed before you try attaching.

Can you attach a plan that has the problem you mention? Even just a small sample of the situation?

You can import the Sketchup model into CA, but you cannot manipulate it other then resizing the whole thing and changing materials. You could also export a Chief model that can be opened in Sketchup which CAN be manipulated but it's not very practical.

If you're asking why there isn't any T1-11 in the library, there is, it's just called something else. Materials>Siding and Paneling>Vertical Paneling. I remember having a hard time finding it when I first started using Chief too.

We're cool David. Thanks.

Don't take that as disrespect David...seriously...wasn't intended that way Its just a simple fact. We're not used to younger, relatively inexperienced people here is all.

I wasn't mocking you. I was trying to offer you some sound advice. Know your place. You've been asking some extremely elementary questions...the likes of which I have almost never seen on this forum. Your questions have been poorly worded, extremely vague and unclear, and you don't know how to use punctuation. You're talking to people who have been doing what you are trying to do for as long as you have been alive and of lot of guys and gals here much MUCH longer than that. If you want to be able to communicate better here and learn some things, you can start by taking a little advice and not getting offended so easily.

Yes

Disrespect is going to get you too far at all here. I was just offering you a helping hand. I can see you must be too good for that.

In the future, you can use a number of methods to do an actual screen capture instead of taking a picture of your screen. What I usually do myself is use "Print Screen".. Most keyboards have a little button somewhere up on the top middle to right hand side of the keyboard labeled Print Screen or Prt Sc. Press that and then go into Microsoft Paint or some other photo editing software and click "Paste" (or press Control+V). Crop as necessary and/or add notes and then Save As whatever. Then attach that file to your post. There are other methods as well, but one way or another, using a "screenshot" is a lot better than an actual photo.

One more thing. Really work on trying to communicate your questions more clearly. Describe what are are trying to accomplish. When you say things like "I don't know how to do this", we really have no idea what you're talking about. Maybe ask something more like "How do I create a 2D elevation detail like this...automatically?" To which we could respond something like "Use a cross section camera, that's what they're for...duh." For what its worth, the detail you drew up with poly-lines should really only have taken 2 seconds with a cross section camera. If you would have learned the program in order though, you would have known that. Just remember that. Try to avoid the temptation to take too many shortcuts, and be prepared to focus on one thing at a time till you really get your head wrapped around it. If you don't get those little things figured out, you're going to end up with a whole crapload of things you barely understand and you'll end up fighting with Chief for the rest of your life. : )

Makes a lot more sense now. Its just unusual to have a 15 year old trying to learn how to use $2,700 software. People don't typically buy something like that if they don't have a notable amount of architectural, construction, or general life experience. And I don't say that in a negative way toward you. Just that you're outside the typical mold. Knowing a little more about who you are and where you're coming from should really help us help you a little better. Anyway, having said all that, I would recommend you take time to go through the Users Guide (at least starting with Chapter 2) and Use the Help files. They are both extremely valuable learning tools. Both can be found if you click on the Help tab at the top of the screen inside Chief Architect. The Users Guide may seem really boring, but it will guide you through all the basics. Don't underestimate learning the basics however dull they may seem.

David, You should really consider paying for some one on one training. It could really benefit you.

I'm not trying to be mean David, and I'm not trying to discourage you from learning the craft. I just think you're putting the cart before the horse. As Johnny suggested above, it really won't do you much good in the long run.

If they're your father's plans than its not suspicious. That's why I asked. I will note though that it sounds like your father didn't draw them or else you wouldn't be talking about replacing the professional architect your father is paying. If that IS the case, be careful. Just because your father paid someone to draw plans doesn't mean he bought the rights to copy their work.