Alaskan_Son

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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son

  1. Hey Scott, thank you for the thoughtful rebuttal but it wasn't actually me who recommended the ceiling planes need to be built to the outside. That was Eric... I actually build them to the inside face of the wall all the time too so you'll get no argument from me. What I pretty much never do however is check Trusses (no birdsmouth). Truthfully, if you get all the settings right you can get the trusses to build correctly using any one of the 4 methods but again, I pretty much always build ceilings to the inside face myself. The point of my video however was only to show how to manually modify those trusses to fix little auto framing glitches Chief throws at us from time to time.
  2. Shane's answer is a good solution for dealing with individual layout boxes but if you want to get them all at the same time you should be going here...
  3. Tom, I think the multiple walls were just to help illustrate the problem. Notice how it's only the 3 walls on each of the 2 outside ends that are framing through the ceiling plane and stopping at the roof above instead of stopping at the manual ceiling plane. ferchl, I can easily see your problem and I can't explain the behaviour. I think your should report this to tech support. In the meantime, I think your best bet is simply to drag the offending walls down in elevation.
  4. Absolutely agree. This particular tool is a biggie in my book.
  5. It imports into X8 without any problems for me... Now finding the useful part of the drawing was a different story. Not sure what exactly you need, but here's the plan file. I added an arrow to show you where I found what I think is probably what you're looking for. DWG.plan
  6. Don't have a lot of time to get into your issues in a lot of depth, but here are a couple possible solutions to your problems: Labels: Unlock the Roofs, Gable Lines layer in your Truss Detail Set. Select the truss envelope polyline, copy it, and place that copy off to the side somewhere. Change the line style for that new polyline to the invisible line style. You can now use this copy of the truss envelope polyline as a moveable label. NOTE: You can optionally and easily resize that second polyline by control or shift selecting it and using the resize handle to scale it down in order to make it a little more manageable. Mask the original label with a small polyline (solid fill set to match background color and using the invisible line style). Hip Jack ("mono truss"): Select Truss #12 and Lock Truss Envelope. Copy Paste In Place a second copy of that truss. Place a temporary point at the intersection of the center of your hip jack and the center of your hip girder (or whatever you want to call it). Rotate/Resize About Current Point and rotate the new rafter 90 degrees. Hope that helps.
  7. There are basically 3 ways you can send a color off vector view to layout... 1. Send to layout as a Live View. This will essentially look exactly like the vector view in your plan...black and white. 2. Send to layout as Plot Lines with Pattern Line Defaults CHECKED. This will cause ALL pattern lines in that view to be controlled by the pattern line defaults color and line weight (you can change these settings by opening the layout box dbx). 3. Send to layout as Plot Lines with Pattern Line Defaults UNCHECKED. This will cause the pattern line display to be controlled by the individual material definitions. You'll probably want to go into Preferences and set Color Off is Grayscale to get full advantage of these settings. Now, beyond those 3 options there are a couple more things you can do to create some illusion of depth... 1. You can utilize a polyline mask with a semi transparent fill to mute the lines for any given area/depth plane. This can be a little time-consuming but it's really not all that bad once you get used to it. It can really help to start with a CAD Detail From View so you have all the necessary snaps for tracing. 2. You can create and utilize copies of the various materials for use on different walls/roof planes and/or place items into different layers with varying color and line weight settings to achieve a similar effect. You'll really have to play with it to get a feel for what works best for you but hopefully that helps. P.S. You can also modify layout lines OR just use a CAD Detail From View and adjust the appropriate lines, but I prefer one of the other methods I mentioned above that way your model and the related camera views all remain live.
  8. Yep. This is what I do as well. I pretty much never use the wall elevation tool. It really has more limitations than benefits IMO.
  9. You're welcome. I do a lot of kitchens and baths myself but I still don't use the wall elevation tool. Way too limiting IMO. I much prefer to just use a normal elevation/cross section along with a quick CAD mask.
  10. Chief doesn't cut those barge rafters right either. I think the best option is usually custom p-solid soffit AND custom p-solid barge rafter/fascia.
  11. It should still take you to the folder. Regardless though, just show hidden items and eliminate that problem.
  12. You're probably not getting all of it. You need to make sure and highlight ALL of it. Like I said, if it's in a zipped folder you'll have to leave the file name off of the end. You would only want to copy and paste this portion... C:\ProgramData\Chief Architect Premier X9\Referenced Files\DalTile.zip
  13. Hey John, here's a quick video...
  14. I made this video to cover your issue and one other issue for another user. I used a 90 degree wall intersection but the same basic principle applies. You have to use the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool...
  15. Just copy and paste the file path from the texture source... You can either copy and paste directly into the appropriate map field OR if you need to modify the jpg first then you can copy and paste the folder path into Windows File Explorer. If it's located in a zipped folder you'll probably need to leave the actual file name off the end though.
  16. I took a quick glance at the plan but don't have the time to study it much further right now. What you're seeing is definitely NOT normal Chief behaviour though. If someone doesn't figure out whats wrong here in pretty short order I would definitely suggest you report it to tech support.
  17. Hey Peter, I never actually use wall elevation cameras so I hadn't noticed this problem before but you appear to be absolutely correct. They aren't working the same as they used to and I can easily reproduce your issue. I would recommend you report this to tech support. In the meantime, it looks like the problem is that the program needs a defined edge there in order to draw anything. There are a few workarounds that might hold you over until Chief fixes the issue... 1. If it happens at an outside corner, use the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool to drag the drywall layer on the wall being viewed back so that its not being flush with the inside face of the adjacent wall and not being beveled or tucked behind. This drywall edge will then produce a line. 2. If it's not at an outside corner you can place a break and do the same as above... 3. You can assign a Wall Covering to the wall that is the same material as your interior wall finish and covering the entire wall. 4. Same as above but you can assign that Wall Covering to the entire room. 5. Click on the Wall Material Region Tool, click once on the wall, set that material region to Cut Finish Layers Of Parent Object, and assign the same material as your wall finish except make it like 1/64" thicker. 6. Or of course you can just draw them in manually. The problem really needs to be reported and addressed but in the meantime hopefully one of the above will work for you. Any one of them should cause those lines to draw... Hope that helps.
  18. If you want a solution you should really post a plan (even a stripped down version). It could be a material setting, it could be a layer setting, it could be a layer set setting, etc.
  19. Just a wild guess here but do you have retain wall framing checked on one or more of those walls? If so, the original wall is just obeying what you told it to do and one or more of the auto framed walls are auto framing to a new location based on newer plan iterations.
  20. I get the same behavior sometimes too. It actually happened with one of my plans earlier today. It was zoomed way in on a blank area in the plan too so it definitely wasn't based on my last save. Anyway, I know that isn't much help. Just want to let you know that you're not alone with your problem. I have just never personally cared enough to look into it any further. I just zoom out and get back to work. It's definitely worth reporting to tech-support if it bothers you though and I would strongly encourage you to do just that. Many of us spend a lot of time reporting problems that benefit all of us but as with so many other cases… We only have so much time in the day and we have to choose our battles carefully.
  21. I only did this very quickly and there are obviously a number of things that will need adjusting (structural settings, heights, moldings, roof pitches, etc.) but it was all done automatically except that I had to drag the roof back above the window seat after the auto build. I really didn't do anything special. Just adjusted a few minor settings. Anyway, like I said, you'll have to perfect it but take a look at the attached plan and see if you can figure it out from there... Bumpout.plan
  22. That looks really nice Ross. Good job!
  23. Here's a few tips that may or may not help you out Larry...
  24. No. You'll just need to let it live in layout. You should be using layout to create your documents anyway though right? Or...you can just upgrade to Premier and get all the tools you might need.