madcowscarnival

I have two 30'x60' mfg. buildings in a 'T' shape. One is a garage, one is living area. The common wall between the buildings is being included in the Living area calculations (I'm assuming) indicating a living space of 1809 sq. ft. rather than 1800. Is it possible to instruct the program to disregard that specific wall area or should I just manually modify? Our AHJ takes the outside dimension (30x60) and is asking for a correction to 1800.

Chopsaw, thank you. I was looking for the convert to symbol button, but it was not available until I converted my basic cad to a plinesolid, then to symbol. Excellent, I appreciate it.

Is there a way to simply tell Chief Architect a pline (2'x4' rectangle) that it should be recognized as an electrical lighting object so that it will connect electrical runs? I need to demonstrate a basic lighting plan in a large open barn where they will be using 2'x4' hanging high-bay LED's. I did find the "short double recessed tube lighting" that will work for the symbol, and can edit that object, but might want to create a 12" diameter high-output LED basic symbol too. To clarify my question. Is it possible to draw a basic shape, perform a special conversion, and assign it as an electrical object?

FYI, first thing to check looking for a property boundary is internet search "county name GIS map". Tulsa's is a little more rudimentary than most, but that's where Chopsaws file is from. On some of these abbreviated legals it almost seems an automated program to abbreviate the legals. A brief rundown: W - west SW SW - Southwest quarter of the southwest quarter of referenced section N - North BEG - Beginning SWC - Southwest corner SW TH - Southwest third (though that would be an awkward description) APR - Approximate CRV RT - curve to the right APR - approx. distance along the curve POB - Point of beginning ACS - acres W348.56 SW SW LESS N601.53 THEREOF & LESS W50 N272.12 S APR 718.47 W348.56 SW SW & LESS BEG SWC SW TH N APR 446.35 E30 S APR 195.63 CRV RT APR 247.83 SE APR 95.43 S APR 148.50 W348.56 POB SEC 1 19 10 3.524ACS

FYI Rob, might want to delete that build sheet with ship-to address.

Minimal comment here. I would say the 2TB m.2 onboard drive is a big waste of space, especially with a quasi-server for your office. With the m.2 I would highly recommend only installing your OS there, and you only need a fraction of that space. All of your file storage should be saved on the server where hopefully you have some manner of redundancy set up there (ours is 4 ~ 2 TB drives "striped"). Even programs which don't properly run if not on your root drive won't take up a fraction of that space. My root drive is 500GB but I could have easily gone with 250GB. I don't have any other manner of on-board storage in form of SATA SSD. On my home office computer I do have a 2TB USB SSD that I frequently backup my server files with Windows built-in SyncToy. * edited for explanation, reason for only OS on the m.2 is plan for failure and easy replacement/reinstall without losing a bunch of stored files. I don't know what the limit of read/write was on the old HDD but the new SSD do have a defined limit before potential failure.

How ridiculously simple, and foolish that I never even tried that, thanks Alaskan_Son. Also, thank you everybody else for the suggestions.

I had no luck on the first page of google results. Is it possible to force a word wrap on a room label without simply manually placing text? Bonus question: how can I place a standalone backsplash behind an oven, below a vent hood? I see the option for "custom backsplash" but it is not selectable in the menu. I can just dropper match the adjacent, but that applies to the entire wall. I have not investigated further, just out of curiosity.

Well, thanks folks, that's unfortunate. Though I thought that may be the case. I've never had to produce a roof plan dimensioned in this manner. The City must be having some issues with site plans and setbacks.

A city is requesting a separate dimensioned roof plan. Is there a way to direct the auto dimension tool to snap to the fascia on the roof framing plan? It seems like I can use the Roof Dimension Defaults to place those dimensions on a separate layer. I attempted to create Auto Dimensions with the default settings to "surface" but that doesn't do what I intended. Manually snapping them works great, but there are enough to make it onerous. Thank you in advance.

That's good to know Chris, I suspected there was a setting for it, but I've never needed one would and didn't know where to look.

Just an aside, I don't think they'll be able to create that. There's a significant moment at that interior peak. I suspect they'll ask to build a girder truss at the interior peak then hang truncated trusses on each side.

I'm sure there are more proper methods, but my "jank" solution would be to break the 2nd floor wall +/-24" from each end. Set the interior portion to build as gable, outside as hip, then autobuild. The eyebrow could be set manually.

That's what mine looks like. I use the default plan.

I haven't drawn anything in the new update, but I have opened some other folks plans to see if I could help with their questions (on the forum). When I draw exterior and interior walls in a new plan from scratch, they are appearing gray and light gray rather than the old blue and yellowish. Was this part of the update or did someones plan defaults change some of my settings? It's not a problem, and I believe I know how to change the display if wanted. Just curious.

FYI, in your camera view the "CAD, ARCH FLOOR PLAN" and "Casings, Interior" are turned off. Turn these on and doors display appropriately. Alternately, move doors to "Door" layer and they display in Camera, but not in "CD - Floor Plan Layer Set). I found out what layer the door was on by bringing up "active layer display options", highlighting all layers and set to display, then selecting the door which brings up only the layers associated with that object (5 in this case). I then whittled it down to the specific layer.

Took me about 3 seconds from any position for full camera to create the view*. Noticeably longer than my typical plan (small file, few textures). * I did have to tell it to ignore about a dozen textures at first. Those textures may be causing some delay in rendering. The door issue I have no idea but suspect it must have something to do with display settings. However, I have no idea which or what.

Looks like your second floor is in the attic space. Select those walls/fixtures, cut them (ctrl-X). Go to main floor, set your heights as you want. Build a second floor. Paste then hold in place. I did this and items appear to place normally on the new 2nd floor (room definitions etc). I did delete the windows (maybe they were manually set), then placed new windows which did position according to my default settings.

Whoa Steve, thank you. That is some remarkable production quality for a short help video. Not only did it help me understand the specific issue, there were a number of other tricks I picked up just watching your interaction with the program. Excellent. Glenn, thanks for the insight on the bathroom, I could not figure out that funky shape it kept giving me. The front porch roof is supposed to have the high soffit line above the porch, without the separate high gable / high hip. I find it hard to adequately describe, and I'm likely not using the proper terminology. SNestors first post right below yours, has a good ortho view of what I manually created. Probably my inability to describe it translates into my inability to tell the program what I want.

Thank you dshall. Is it a glitch that I should send to Chief or just an order of operations error from the janky way I made the wall?

I did just build the walls and cut at above ceiling (which Chief apparently recognized the roof as). However, at the front face of the intersection between the auto wall (on the inside of the porch) and my manual wall, it cuts off the siding at that corner. Joe, or anyone else watching this, any ideas?

Thanks Joe, that actually makes me feel pretty good coming from one of the high-end users here.

If anyone can offer some insight/advice. I was unable to set up this roof to draw automatically. I manually edited to how the client wants it to look, however, I have no walls in the area above the lower roof plane and the higher plane soffit. I can go to attic level, draw a wall (which then sticks above the main roof) then manually pull it down below the roof surface. However, this seems like the improper way to do things. Is there a correct way to create these wall portions, or have Chief do it automatically? Bonus: is there a way to create this roof automatically? It was originally set up as a high gable over the porch, which was building properly. With high-soffit hip it tries to build only over the porch. This is also a bastard-hip roof. The little hip over the master bath has never been happy with autobuilding over that higher ceiling. If you auto-build it will demonstrate the issue? Thank you for any help. 19-070 alt roof.plan

Change it in Roof Plane specifications. I just went in and tried to find the default for roof planes specifically but was unable to. However, selecting and editing the individual roof plane -> Structure ->Roof -> Rafter Spacing takes care of it.

That looks great Joey, what filter is used on that picture in particular? Or is that an outside post-rendering?