HumbleChief

Those were great article Richard. I have no worries about such things but I love to learn about the defining nature of them. It looks like the burden is on the Architect to prove that the design is somehow a direct, protected, copy of the original design. Not easy from reading those two pieces. Thanks for taking the time to dig those up...

Yes but "How much change constitutes a new and unique design?" and who makes the call? ..and apparently there was enough within a mainstream design to be protected by a design copyright to sue (and win) a builder in the above mentioned article/case which seems like they blatantly used some existing plans without any changes (which seems stupid on its face but we are humans after all). And how much of an 'artistic element' need be involved and when has one 'copied' that artistic element or merely been inspired by it? And who makes the call? Kinda curious how the case mentioned played out...

I couldn't read all of the article because of an ad blocker I use but I was curious at what point is a 'copy' of a house design no longer a copy? How much change constitutes a new and unique design? Change only the roof lines from a gable to a hip - is that enough? Enlarge the Master and move the closet - is that enough? Reverse the garage? Reverse the entire plan? Change exterior finishes? Window locations/sizes? I would never consider completely copying a design because I've never seen one that didn't need my touch to become my and my client's design but I would certainly start with a sound design that a client liked (from pictures or whatever the source) and customize it, but how much would that design need to be customized it before it's no longer a copy? When should you feel comfortable that the design is now unique enough that you won't get sued and who's making that call?

Glad I could help...

Never tried that - I like it....

...block your selection and click the add to library icon. Apologies if that's too obvious

I see that. Yes. Open each roof dbx, lock the pitch and set the fascia top (or bottom) to 168" - should work OK. And yes you can raise the roof without affecting the ceiling heights.

...or just open the plan I posted and see if that doesn't do the trick for you.

Super confused here. Why would you need a second floor to simply set different ceiling heights in different areas of a single floor building? Did you check the plan? Or the video? Really curious and it wouldn't be the first time I got it all wrong but am interested in what I am missing?

Did you check the plan I posted? And take all the steps in the video? Those issues were all resolved. Build a mono slab foundation and that should get rid of the stem wall. Then follow the video or use the plan I postsed. A 168" eave height? Just set the eave height on the roof to 168" ?? What am I missing? Are you using eave height to mean something else? Because eave height is set in the roof dbx and can be any height you choose in conjunction with the baseline height. Top of eave? Bottom of eave? Here's the plan again. Just change the roof eave height to 168" and you're done. - again unless I'm missing something. ceiling plane 2.plan.

Bob, I see no reason you can't set the ceiling height to 10 ft. in the rooms you choose, make sure there's a ceiling in those rooms' spec, and then make sure there's no ceiling in the warehouse area. Chief should handle that condition easily without having to resort to a custom ceiling plane. Plan attached below. As always there might be something simple I am missing but seemed pretty straight forward. I re-did the video to eliminate looking for that pesky stem wall... Oh yeah I built a mono slab foundation as well. I didn't see one in your original plan. ceiling plane 2.plan

When in Layout open the plan view (don't double click) and make sure you have the correct reference plan errr... 'referenced' in that dialog box.

I think your experience mirrors mine in the early days of learning Chief. I would seem to cruise through many tasks then I would just get stuck - not because Chief lacked the tools but because I could not understand the paradigm Chief chose to get specific tasks done. Still have a hard time with some interface choices but can get though most challenges with relative ease. Oh yeah, been using Chief for about 20 years...Sheesh...but still learning as us not so sharp tools learn a bit slower than others

Rene, I changed the room's ceiling finish to the 7/8" T& G, deleted the Ceiling finish in the roof dbx, and then checked use Room Ceiling Finish in the Roof Structure dbx - it seemed to work.

Wow that is stubborn. I can get the large triangle to go away a couple different ways, lowering the roof and changing the walls from balloon through ceiling to stop at ceiling, but that little triangle over the sink area persists.

Rene, Try removing the 3/4" knotty oak from the roof surface layer and just use the white T&G from the ceiling finish. Nah that didn't work - still shows in another part of the kitchen and wrecks your eave structure.

Worked a treat, never knew Chief could do such things but a really nice fix. THANKS!

Yeah that works. Never tilted a baseline before, never knew you could. Good stuff. Thanks

I think I remember a thread or two regarding the subject and am working on an older house that has a parapet roof with the roof rafters running parallel to the baseline (versus the default perpendicular) and haven't found a method to reproduce the condition. I'm aware that Chief does not like to frame this way and can probably take care of any details/sections pretty easily but am curious about methods or workarounds. Oh yeah the roof is not flat but only 1/4" ft slope. Thanks Plan's attached ROOF_RAFTERS_1.plan

Good thread and I finally figured it out - I am both jealous and envious of my fellow designers who have enough spare time to mess with such things. My plans seldom require such detailed information and if they do I just drag out a few markers with the proper data and am done with it. Seriously admire everyone's tenacity and input, it doesn't go unnoticed and will probably come in handy at some point in the future.

I too have spent hours and hours and hours trying to get Chief's 'auto anything' to really help in plan preparation - never had any luck. I just spend the extra 2 - 3 minutes to prepare my elevation heights; plan key notes; and anything else that takes way more time and effort than it has been worth.

Cool Joe appreciate the info and logic. Thanks

Here's a note provided by the truss manufacturer in my area. Should be easy to spec, or exceed that uplift load I would think but certainly won't cover every condition, especially those one is not comfortable with but has been good for many years in my business. "Provide mechanical connection (by others) of truss to bearing plate capable of withstanding 100 lb uplift at joint(s) 10, 2, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15"

Kinda my point - it might be exactly what that connection requires - or not - but it certainly isn't inherently sketchy unless one deems it so. I don't do my own structural or truss calcs so I depend on those disciplines to get it right and "run the calcs on the roof projected area and the vertical pressure zones" as needed to determine the appropriate connection spec and detail. Puts me at a slight disadvantage but these days all my engineer's are so conservative in their spec's and calcs I tend not to concern myself about those things. NOT for everyone, especially those licensed for such things but I don't have much choice, not being licensed in any given discipline, other than, again, to depend on those specific disciplines. Curious Joe, Did you make a decision on the connector?

(2) 16d Toenails doesn't seem sketchy at all. It seems to be very specific and might be exactly what that connection requires but of course on the other hand you don't have to be comfortable with that detail. For any uplift condition I would imagine Simpson's hurricane connectors https://www.strongtie.com/hurricanetiesforplatedtruss_trusstiedowns/h-tsp_productgroup_wcc/p/h.tsp to be just what the doctor ordered. This one seems especially robust https://www.strongtie.com/resources/product-installers-guide/h10a-rafter-condition It's such an inexpensive item it seems there's no reason not to specify the strongest connector for the condition. Curious as to what you ultimately choose.