HumbleChief

The video from Chief skips a step if you've already auto built and auto framed all the roof planes. The underlying roof plane needs to be extended under the new over framed roof planes, then it frames properly. The video doesn't show the framing for the other roof planes but that just needs framing per the build framing tool. There might be a way to auto frame everything including the over frame and perhaps the smart guys will chime in but I couldn't find it.

Got it and your point was well taken either way.

Even though garages don't typically have floor joists I see what you're saying and I missed it. We can change floor joist sizing and material from the floor dbx but not spacing. Need the bearing lines/walls and a joist direction line as you and others have pointed out.

The OP was asking how to change O.C. spacing for floor framing. Seems much easier and more flexible to change that data in the floor structure of the room. No bearing lines or bearing walls needed. Just sayin'

This is an interesting idea. I wonder if the master site plan could have very simple floor plan outlines locating each unit and each referenced plan point to point moved into their respective locations then referenced?

Glenn would you use bearing lines/bearing walls versus 'rooms'? Rooms seem much more flexible with more joist choices/materials etc.?

How is the roof built? Where/how do he rafters interact with the exterior walls? Do they rest on the outside wall with a birds mouth? How big are the rafters? The baseline will not position the height of the roof and rafters, but you can raise the roofs until the rafters rest on the outside wall the way the structure is actually built. Try this. With auto build roofs and auto framing on build the roof and raise/lower from ceiling height until the rafters go over the outside of the wall the way it is built. And as always wait for the smart guys to chime in.

Didn't know a bearing line allowed for defining different floor framing. I've always used room "structure" tab. Seems a bit more flexible.

Chief does indeed allow different floor framing per room. Lots of reference videos re: same.

Great videos Eric, learned a couple tricks that I'll use in the future. Also learned that building custom columns is a very viable, if not preferred, option.

You might be able to convert to a symbol then define stretch planes for the areas you want to change. That's a bit over my pay grade but maybe the smart guys can help? Building from scratch is not a bad option as Tommy has suggested.

Thanks for the clarification Joe. Will make time to download and experiment.

Nice Joe, so glad that helped. I've been searching through that article for the exact download solution and can't seem to find a specific link. Got one to share? Thanks.

NICE - Hope it helps the OP.

Here's a plan that combines all the tips from the smart guys; Terrain Regions; Terrain lines; Terrain Breaks and Foundation walls. Hope it helps. 876584401_TERRAINLINES2.plan

THX!

Hi Glenn, What do you mean by "normal wall"? Thanks

I used to feel that same way but Chief has proven to be extremely reliable and stable (for me at least) and my business model has very little use for older versions. Some folks keep a bunch of older versions so they can help others who have not upgraded but again not my MO. I do continually update and polish my template files as I did today with my Section Views but that's about it.

I take a pretty lazy approach and just hit the "Migrate Everything" button or what ever it's called, then save my existing X13 templates into the X14 data folder, make sure they are used for any new plan or Layout, and carry on. Chief also saves an X13 version of a plan when an X13 plan is first saved in X14 "just in case".

Maybe this will help. https://www.dell.com/community/Alienware/m15-R5-QHD-screen-is-oversaturated-and-too-vibrant/td-p/7900509

Yes, but they still need to be raised as Eric is suggesting.

I upgraded as well with no problems.

You can auto build a 'Salt Box roof by selecting each wall and setting a different pitch in its 'roof' dbx.

I also estimate jobs based on past experience and a 'feel' for the client and how much detail the project 'should' involve. I met with 2 younger clients today who wanted to leave the design almost completely up to me, which is red flag I won't fall for, but that let's me know they don't have too many absolute pictures in their heads and the proposal will reflect their attitude and the simple nature of the existing house. Another older client had a thousand ideas and was trying to decide between a modern design or Spanish Revival (still hasn't decided) and it was easy to see the design nightmare coming. Actually a job I didn't want so I added some extra $$ to cover the effort I could clearly see coming So basically I don't worry about a single design that might need more detailing and how to bill for those details. I try and get a feel for those needed details in advance and sometimes I'll lose a couple hours for the effort but mostly don't, and try and look at the bigger business picture including the designs where I do very well that seem to balance out those that may be a little less profitable.