SH_Canada

so instead of using the multiple copy , you drew it, or did you copy and nudge? just or my future reference tanks

good to know, thanks

was there anything unusual you did? i did this by brining it up and then breaking it, then dragging it to the bottom: and got this...not sure what the little window in the ceiling plane is: and this

thanks eric, that did it. the fascinating thing is I tried extednig that one wall over to the right to see if it would make a difference (hence my fiddling comment) , and it did not, but, when you take it all the way over to the right as you did, the black lines go away. Fascinating, I would have though the vertical black line would have moved with me extending the wall. This is what threw me off, I figured if the lines were not moving when I moved the wall then it must be something else go figure, I just had to extend it to the end the reason there is the drop at the front you mention is because the entry is 8' while rest of main floor is 9', 8' is to accommodate truss depth coming down. Am I right in having to draw two ceiling planes, one for the entry and one for the second floor? I tried one (built on the main floor extending to the bottom horizontal chord) and it did not work.(it would only show on the main floor) trying to get this (which I did with 2 ceiling planes) thanks again

uhm update it to what? it already has: X12 NVIDIA GTX 1660 Ti i7

Dont laugh at the odd design, it's the owner's. I auto built the roof planes, then moved them. I then created two ceiling planes to get more than 3.5" for the truss on the long angle, as one ceiling plane did not look like it would span a floor. Anyway all good, juts giving some background for some oddball things. The original plan was square, I moved out the entry wall to make the entry. When I look at the right elevation, it shows the stairwell wall outline on the second floor(second pic below). I checked the walls on both floors and they seem like one wall, at least on the bathroom side, I did notice the two attic walls seem to be of different lengths. not sure why but that would seem to be a separate problem. Anyway, when I go to select the outside wall in ortho camera, it selects the entire wall: so why does it show the black line:?? framing overview, the wall looks "proper" to me or is it only supposed to build the wall for the floor. I took a look at the stairwell room and tried unchecking ceiling above , interestingly it removes the top floor ceiling when I do this for the main floor stairwell(I suppose because both are open to below rooms). regardless it did not change any thing. any ideas on how to get rid of it? both stair open to below rooms match adjacent rooms, unrelated I think are these other two attic walls being different lengths, does it matter? thanksMichel 2.plan

If you zoom in near the open garage door for each, you can see a noticeable difference in looking at the garage door detail, and the window you can see through the garage door is a lot crisper in X12. That being said the X13 is brighter and when I first looked (without the zoom) I thought that one was "better" only my opinion of course..

Not sure what this would look like: is your floor 6" thick? this is what I do (ignore the second storey). It has frost wall above grade by 12", grade to top of footing (51-12)= 39" (frost wall) I also built a "foundation floor", shows up on floor 0

your ceiling should not be at zero and the floor at -1 Are you trying to build slab on grade? or with a basement? or with stem walls?

yes I would agree it is cleaner looking, but only if most things were to whole numbers. 8' is cleaner than 244mm, IMHO, or certainly easier to remember If all building materials and regulations were metric and to 2 significant digits, then yes, it would be very pretty in my opinion, 1.20M 3M 0.6M etc, 400mm spacing I find it interesting that some things get rounded, such as 16" and 24" spacing get rounded to 400 and 600mm, even though it should be 406 and 610. And that is what I find hard to remember, who decides when to round. If there were consistent rounding rules, say to two significant digits, shouldn't the above be 410 and 610? It's like "someone" said, for these cases here, we can get close to whole numbers, so lets go to whole numbers, but these cases over here, lets not. It just seems random. But I suppose if you started with metric and the regulations were all metric, you would never see that inconsistency I will say, the survey plan in metric is very clean looking, everything to 2 digits in meters, granted typically there are only about 10-15 measurements

May I ask why would you want to rent X12 instead of renting X13?

can you post the plan. I have this configuration, and my upper windows do not show in the main floor plan view. (I have no second floor, just the vaulted ceiling)

I do not see where it says anywhere that the 1070 would not work, unless it does not comply with "DirectX 12 requires Shader Model 6.0 or newer." PC Minimum1 Windows 10 64-bit 8 GB of RAM Video Card2 2 GB of RAM DirectX 123 5 GB of available hard disk space Internet access4 1 Computers with ARM processors are not supported. It is recommended that laptops have a minimum 15" screen. 2 Supported video cards include (1) dedicated video cards such as NVIDIA GeForce RTX (2) Intel integrated graphics 9th Generation "Skylake" or newer. 3 DirectX 12 requires Shader Model 6.0 or newer.

below is pdf unflattened. If you go to View->show/Hide->Navigation->layers in Adobe acrobat you will see something like below if the document was printed with layers. I use CA's direct save as PDF, and I do not see any layers like this

thank you, I'll remember this

Is there any other way to determine these things?.I cannot seem to actually select the ceiling break line to actually see what the object is. Beating my head as I try and select, then draw a box to select, tab, tab, still nothing, zoom, rinse repeat. I then copy the current active layer set, and then start unchecking things until I find it. Is this the only way(besides narrowing it with the line type, and or colour as Eric suggested)? I'm kind of thinking yes this is the only way as there are multiple posts with the problem and this post seems like the only methodical attempt to determine what it is, but I am hoping there is a better way?? If I remember correctly, the "S" step also has the same "Cannot select" behaviour. Thanks

@nVisionTEKBIM That was my question as well. What is your process and what information do you take and/or use from their report. From what I can kind of gather, you would go to site, measure the interior walls, windows, take pictures for hover. Measure any decks, stairs or anything else without a roof (as hover requires a roof to dimension) Then go back to the office, wait for the hover file, then.... 1. build a foundation from the hover report's foundation dimensions 2. build the main storey from the foundation in CA, then build interior walls from your measurements. Add windows, doors from your measurements 3. The use hover's pitch and soffit width dimensions to build roofs? For 2, I assume you use hover as a double check for your dimensions, taking into consideration the wall thickness? thanks devil is always in the details. even the video above: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10212/as-built-measurements-best-practices.html he takes the internal dimensions of the window with his laser, but CA expects dims to the outside frame (as it adds 1" for the RO). You do not see him measure the frame width, but you see him enter 72" into CA. so did he eyeball the frame width? Was 72" actually the inside dimensions of the interior frame? or did he do some math to get exactly 72". or did he measure something like 70 and 1/2 and assumed they were 72" windows. He also doesn't say how he gets the dimension from floor to top of subfloor on the storey above for the stairs when the person asks about stairs and landings. Scott draws the room height, but the floor thickness detail is missing. usually the bottom stair or maybe two will extend past the stair opening, so this means you cannot just laser down, and with landings it's impossible. From my experience you have to measure risers or bring a level laser, and put on the landing, and measure to the level line, or look at the joist structure in a utility room (typically how I do it), or assume/measure from the outside (second way I do it) it's always about the details as that is what takes the time

Well CA-001 is now burned into my memory, but I did just check out adding the search term. That works very well, and I copied it to my user catalog with the name smartboard". Thanks for those tidbits. I can see the search one being very useful for those "I might need this again someday", but for some reason do not want to add more clutter to the user catalog..although one could argue to create "not used very often folder" and stick everything there I have not really had much use for just 1x other than frieze board, that I can think of, that is not automatically done, such as fascia.. And the frieze board you can change the dims as you enter so I do not see a need for me at this moment to add different 1x, but I could see for others dressing up the outside of houses, it probably is very handy I try and use whatever is built in most of the time, like batten board around windows can be specified in the windows DBX. I seem to recall this(adding molding) was not the way is was done in X6. I think there was just a check box, but I could be wrong. More configurable=more powerful=more complex. Always a balance, which is where I think the user doc offers the best cost effective way to educate for these types of things (CA-001 is flat stock). A couple sentences goes a long way

I just took a look at the hover output. What details are you using from hover? Today I laser the interior and build the exterior from survey, but the survey is not always available. But in looking at hover it looks like it may be missing key details such as: distance from grade to top of subfloor, distance from top of subfloor to ridge or at least some way to get grade to peak do you take the hover foot print and create a foundation in CA, and then build floors on top and then build out cantilevers based on hover's output? Today I measure windows and doors incl location from end wall, measure grade to floor top (or bottom), grade to soffit (as a double check) and pitch (via bosch by laying on a gable), or guess based on roof planes (its easier than one might think). Then I build the foundation in CA, build fisrt story, add in windows and doors in CA,, auto build roof, then adjust roof For uneven lots, I measure grade at multiple locations But if hover could give me the window distances from corners (or maybe I could just import the pdf, scale, that is probably good enough). The other problem I have is sides of houses. here they are most of the time less than 4' to PL, sometime 2', which means the picture is taken at the corner for maximum wide angleness. Have you come across this issue, and does hover still work? Thanks. It looks like $50 per for the simple 4 segment roof. That would be within my budget if it provided all of the above

I have the same goal. I briefly looked at magic plan, but did not want to pay monthly fees, so I went with the bosch Bluetooth laser and measure on gen 1 app(free), (but I did by a $300 android) to create the 2d. It takes me about an 1hr to hour and a half by the time I take all of the wall and "important" (furnace, posts, elect) measurements and pictures. But I also use the time to to discuss options with the customers about half the time. so I'm there anywhere from 45min on the low end to 2 hours I'm curious to see your opinion of magicplan, and if you have used the bosch app, your opinion on the differences

perhaps and I think that is the difference, I was searching by words, not looking at profiles. One just has to convert the thinking to everything is molding be it interior or exterior and know or peruse the catalog to know flat 1x is from the generic base molding. I think part of this is I do not think of exterior trim as molding and my attempts at searching were for terms like frieze, trim, 1x etc. I can see why it is done this way as it allows the same generic object to be used for different purposes instead of replicating that object for different purposes. My opinion is then the documentation should de-genercize it for the use case. I use the search a lot to find everything from lights to sofas, I was expecting to find something with the search. But in this case, because it is so generic, it cannot be easily found I think, and it is merely my opinion, that if the user guide shows it as 1x2, 1x4, a few words that it came from "base moldings", and they created their own for the example would be helpful. My guess is most people do what you did and add to the user catalog or simply memorize or go to CA-001 and then adjust the size as they are added

yes he did thanks, I'm still a little put out than one has to "know" about CA-001 for flat 1x. It seems to be a function of CA lumping moldings and exterior trim into the same category. Around here 99.999% of frieze boards are flat. A couple words about CA-001 in the user manual or default to it in the dbx would have been helpful. ...off to the suggestion box or I suppose a manufacturer's catalog for LP would have found it as well

thanks, a bit of a hunt and peck, but I suppose once you find CA-001, then one knows that is the molding to represent smart board or flat 1x I'm still a little perplexed in not being able to find the "1x4 trim" shown in the CA user doc. Maybe they created their own for the example....

don't show that 3d view and instead make a comment that it needs to be framed in. I've seen this on plans before

Ahh this is what I was looking for, thank you