kwhitt

Mick - yes, I learned that one the hard way a few days ago... Thanks.

I'm getting back to this design today. I'll post the results. Thanks for the input.

Larry - thank you very much for the file. I'll look at this when I get home tonight. Kevin

Thanks!

Ryan - very much appreciated. So the sheathing will follow the sub-fascia even if not selected/used? Would you mind sharing the file if you still have it? Kevin

Thanks Michael. I'm guessing I would use the trim tool from a plan view and cut all at once.

Thank you Sir. Yes, I think I will manually reshape one and then copy - shouldn't take too long for both sides. Just a thought - is it possible to create an invisible rafter tail to which I can apply the fascia board? Also, applying this method, I still end up with a little bit of siding at the eve where the frieze board should be. Was my idea of creating a 3/4" thick exterior wall and calling it a frieze for the eve sides totally off base?

Ryan, Thanks. That's pretty darn close. Is it possible for me to remove all the soffit/fascia boards? I know you can disable sub-fascias. Do I go about this by zeroing the size fields out? I ask as I can manually draw them as it's only two sides - figure I would do it with a stacked molding line. Also, how did you get the roof sheathing to extend beyond the rafter end? Would you mind sharing the file?

Thanks Eric. I now see what you were doing with the rafter tail. When you say "group select the rafters and shorten them", what does that look like? In an elevation view by manually resizing or do you mean via DBX?

There is no birdsmouth cut. The rafters are fastened to the sides of the 2 x 10 joists and spaced similarly. I tried using an invisible wall at the eves and a wall with a single layer of 3/4" material to act as the fascia board, but I never could get the rafters to align to the joists as needed. I was just wondering if there was a way for Chief to handle this situation by way of settings in the roof DBX.

Eric - thanks for the input. I'm not sure how I can describe it any better than what is shown in the cross-section drawing in the original post above (posted here again). The second story floor joists extend beyond the 1st floor framing by 12" at the eves. The rafters are square cut (the top point of which aligns with the outside top of the 2 x 10 joists). I am wondering how I can do this in Chief Architect without having the second story walls built at the eves. Is this something I need to draw manually to get it exactly like my drawing? Thanks again, Kevin

Hi Ryan - thanks for the response. The AutoCAD cross-section above shows exactly what you mention (the large fascia, frieze, and angled shadow board). I was hoping there was a way for Chief to handle this situation out of the box with the proper square cut, so that the framing would generate automatically. There will be an addition added to the main part of the house that will be framed the same way without me have to manually add the rafters and soffits.

I've got an As-built where the floor platform on the second floor extends beyond the first floor framing by 12" on the eve sides. It is a story and a half home and the rafters meet these floor joists as shown in the attached drawing. I have followed the training video on Chief's website by ignoring second floor and raising the roof. This still creates a wall with siding where the fascia board should be. Is there a setting I am missing somewhere or am I going about it all wrong? I've also attached a simple version of the file. Thanks, Kevin CHF_Story and Half_07-01-20.zip

That's scary. Thanks for the heads up. So far no problem with this plan over three days and nearing completion.

Thanks Rob & Ryan - I thought there might be some interactivity between the pier and footing after initial placement. Rob - you are correct. I don't do many decks, but am finding that manual is the way to go. Thanks again!

Ryan - Thanks for the reply. I am adding terrain after the fact. I can open the footing and change to whatever size/material and specify that the bottom be 18" below the terrain. This makes it necessary for me to resize the pier manually (taller in this case) unless there is a setting that will force the pier to sit on top of the footing automatically. I ask as I have a very rocky terrain and all of my pier heights will be somewhat different. Is there a way to make Chief resize the piers (while locked at the top), so that they automatically meet the footing? Kevin

I've got a main house with concrete foundation walls and some 16 x 16 CMU piers here and there. I also have some 6 x 6 wood piers under a deck. The builder wants to change the wood deck piers to 24 x 24 brick piers with larger footings. I have already customized the framing for the deck and don't want it altered so have turned off auto-framing. I just got the terrain data and I'd like the piers/footings to conform to it, however I don't want to alter my deck or main house framing in any way. Do/can the pier footings work automatically independent of the framing? I am seeing that the piers and footings are now two separate items that can be opened. The footings allow me to specify distance from the terrain, but the piers have no such control - at least that I can find. Is it now necessary for me to manually size the piers? Thanks, Kevin

Eric - attached is the final plan with all the tricks/tips mentioned in this thread. Thanks to everyone for the help! CHF_TEST_Addition_06-27-20.zip

Works great. Thanks!

Clever! Do you happen to have a way around the post not centering on the wall when there are disparate thicknesses on either side. This beam not aligning is bothering me.

Got it. I was trying to find a button from within the editor DBX to delete. Taken care of now.

Aha... That said, I removed the siding on the one side at your recommendation and replaced with a polyline solid to cover the rim joist with siding on the exterior... Seems one workaround causes other problems... Thanks for you time today.

Steve - thanks for the input and file. I was just reading this thread over again as I was sure I missed something. This is definitely how I would build it, however, the client has other ideas.

I've noticed something about these newel posts that seems odd to me. They don't seem to line up with the framing. I can, of course, offset them by 1/4", but then they don't align with the beam above. Is this a bug? Plan attached. offset wall post.plan

I'd like to know about the newel posts too.