kwhitt

Thanks Eric. I now see what you were doing with the rafter tail. When you say "group select the rafters and shorten them", what does that look like? In an elevation view by manually resizing or do you mean via DBX?

There is no birdsmouth cut. The rafters are fastened to the sides of the 2 x 10 joists and spaced similarly. I tried using an invisible wall at the eves and a wall with a single layer of 3/4" material to act as the fascia board, but I never could get the rafters to align to the joists as needed. I was just wondering if there was a way for Chief to handle this situation by way of settings in the roof DBX.

Eric - thanks for the input. I'm not sure how I can describe it any better than what is shown in the cross-section drawing in the original post above (posted here again). The second story floor joists extend beyond the 1st floor framing by 12" at the eves. The rafters are square cut (the top point of which aligns with the outside top of the 2 x 10 joists). I am wondering how I can do this in Chief Architect without having the second story walls built at the eves. Is this something I need to draw manually to get it exactly like my drawing? Thanks again, Kevin

Hi Ryan - thanks for the response. The AutoCAD cross-section above shows exactly what you mention (the large fascia, frieze, and angled shadow board). I was hoping there was a way for Chief to handle this situation out of the box with the proper square cut, so that the framing would generate automatically. There will be an addition added to the main part of the house that will be framed the same way without me have to manually add the rafters and soffits.

I've got an As-built where the floor platform on the second floor extends beyond the first floor framing by 12" on the eve sides. It is a story and a half home and the rafters meet these floor joists as shown in the attached drawing. I have followed the training video on Chief's website by ignoring second floor and raising the roof. This still creates a wall with siding where the fascia board should be. Is there a setting I am missing somewhere or am I going about it all wrong? I've also attached a simple version of the file. Thanks, Kevin CHF_Story and Half_07-01-20.zip

That's scary. Thanks for the heads up. So far no problem with this plan over three days and nearing completion.

Thanks Rob & Ryan - I thought there might be some interactivity between the pier and footing after initial placement. Rob - you are correct. I don't do many decks, but am finding that manual is the way to go. Thanks again!

Ryan - Thanks for the reply. I am adding terrain after the fact. I can open the footing and change to whatever size/material and specify that the bottom be 18" below the terrain. This makes it necessary for me to resize the pier manually (taller in this case) unless there is a setting that will force the pier to sit on top of the footing automatically. I ask as I have a very rocky terrain and all of my pier heights will be somewhat different. Is there a way to make Chief resize the piers (while locked at the top), so that they automatically meet the footing? Kevin

I've got a main house with concrete foundation walls and some 16 x 16 CMU piers here and there. I also have some 6 x 6 wood piers under a deck. The builder wants to change the wood deck piers to 24 x 24 brick piers with larger footings. I have already customized the framing for the deck and don't want it altered so have turned off auto-framing. I just got the terrain data and I'd like the piers/footings to conform to it, however I don't want to alter my deck or main house framing in any way. Do/can the pier footings work automatically independent of the framing? I am seeing that the piers and footings are now two separate items that can be opened. The footings allow me to specify distance from the terrain, but the piers have no such control - at least that I can find. Is it now necessary for me to manually size the piers? Thanks, Kevin

Eric - attached is the final plan with all the tricks/tips mentioned in this thread. Thanks to everyone for the help! CHF_TEST_Addition_06-27-20.zip

Works great. Thanks!

Clever! Do you happen to have a way around the post not centering on the wall when there are disparate thicknesses on either side. This beam not aligning is bothering me.

Got it. I was trying to find a button from within the editor DBX to delete. Taken care of now.

Aha... That said, I removed the siding on the one side at your recommendation and replaced with a polyline solid to cover the rim joist with siding on the exterior... Seems one workaround causes other problems... Thanks for you time today.

Steve - thanks for the input and file. I was just reading this thread over again as I was sure I missed something. This is definitely how I would build it, however, the client has other ideas.

I've noticed something about these newel posts that seems odd to me. They don't seem to line up with the framing. I can, of course, offset them by 1/4", but then they don't align with the beam above. Is this a bug? Plan attached. offset wall post.plan

I'd like to know about the newel posts too.

Thanks Mick. Will do! Kevin

Ryan - thanks for your input. Balcony is not working now either as the floor platform on the deck (or porch) is comprised of 2 x 8 floor joists. The main house has 2 x 10 floor joists. When you lower the porch by 2", the siding should line up due to the 2" difference in framing members. What actually occurs is shown in the attached illustration. There has got to be an easier way... I have attached the file in the above post, if you have time to take a look. Kevin

Thanks Mick. You read my mind. While you were typing, I was zipping this file. Kevin CHF_Haurand Addition_06-26-20.zip

Thanks Ryan. You're right. I guess I can just place my pier/footings manually which I intend to tweak anyway. Speaking of double or triple beams, do you actually draw those out individually? I am using a triple 2 x 10 beam and just drew it as a single member 4.5" thick with a custom label. I was curious how others do this. Kevin

Mick - are you saying untick "generate between platforms" and try the above method again? Kevin

Mick - I take that back. It does sorta' work, but my rim joist is poking through the siding. Thoughts on this?

Ryan - thanks. Changing to balcony works, but I lose my pier footings.

Thanks Mick. It's not my intention to monopolize your day, but glad you're around. That said, I used your steps above and it didn't work. When I unticked "railing", the siding went to the correct place and when I ticked it again, it jumped back up. Ideas?