winterdd

it definately works BUT it did what i thought would happen. it threw another post in the center for the middle break so i chose "no post". thats makes it remove my beam as well. lol

hmm, i would have never thought to try that, but hey if it works it works lol

no clue what you are trying to explain, however here is a pic. only one railing wall, post to beam to catch the porch roof. i want to slide the posts as shown. they are currently 120" o.c. and you cannot manually manipulate them.

hello fellow chiefers, i'm trying to figure out how to space my posts to beam as shown. where is the option to not space them equally on centers?

Wow, that was quite simple. I have never noticed that option.

thanks joey and rob. off subject, if you see the pdf i attached, how do you get that garage door design? i'm assuming it's not the door that is chamfered but the wall that is. in that case, is it just a simple process of breaking the lines in the wall elevation and forming a chamfer?

My thoughts exactly. The posts COULD be exposed in the walls for that certain look but i really dont think it matters. They can be shown in the framing details. I tried using a railing command and got it to look good but i made issues for me. Polylines are another good suggestion along with regular wall command which is what is shown in my attachment.

That will allow it to become a space since the walls wont be continuous? I will give it a try.

how would you guys handle the wall type for a pole barn type construction that will be heated and cooled and livable in one section? if a pole barn, for instance, has 6x6 posts, i would obviously want to make my walls 6" thick to match the depth. they would be built with 2x6 studs BUT how would you incorporate the posts into the wall as well? surely you would not have to make the walls individual pieces that stop in way of the posts. i have attached some views of a sketch from the client. i have the building finished in chief but the structure is not going to be right for the walls of the living area as it have it now. attachments may be a better explanation. thanks for the input. Barn Layout1.pdf Barn Layout1-1.pdf

you are the second person who has said this. my neighbor knows what i do and he owns a restaurant. he too learned that going cheap on his menu doesn't bring more business, people see an inferior product and expect superior work with higher prices.

drdesign, my thinking has always been people may think i'm ripping them off and taking longer than usual if i go by the hour. i'm fairly quick but when dealing with people who know nothing about design can be an issue.

Very smart advice rene.

Wow! I am learning to not cut myself short and charge to low. People still come to me even after i raise my prices. Good job man, that is impressive income. I charge per ft. Ive never looked into charging by the hour.

This is good to hear. I would love to go full time with my services and work for myself. Right now its just part time(nights and weekends) and i get many different requests like renderings, full sets of plans, small diy task drawings around the home and such. Ive done house plans for 16 years and its been slow until i marketed better, huge construction growth in my area and building relationships over the past few years. My dream is still possible then. I would think to make it work you have to always set money back for the slower times. Thanks for sharing

At the risk of maybe being too personal, has anyone ever hit 6 figures doing home design/plans in a year's time or come close to it? I think it is very well possible if you plan right with projects. Im hoping i wont get ripped for posting such a topic.

haha, the first time this happened to me it aggravated the hell out of me.

you sir are a genius!! it worked.

Rosene.plan

this is similar to a post i made yesterday. i cannot get this to work, maybe my screen shots will show where i'm going wrong. the footing detail is what the builder ok'd. what am i doing wrong? the bricks come in with one tier and no brick ledge is made.

Ohhhhh, i was going about that totally backwards. Thanks guys.

so i know how to get the 18", 24" and 5" dimension. where in chief can i tell it to give me the 8" dim for brick ledge depth? this is a cad detail so i cheated but i want my 3d model to match.

i figured out something better for my situation. build a second floor. draw your dormer walls manually. set to "open below". boom, throw your roof plane on the dormer and some windows and it works perfect.

so, my new project is a one story home with flat ceilings throughout and a two car garage. i have a couple questions. 1) the owners want a dormer centered on the house but want it functional to allow natural light into the living room. does the attic have to be changed to a "room" to allow this? if so, can i create a second floor with like 3-6" ceiling height just to get it labeled as a room? im sure it won't be built like this in real life, correct? 2) bonus room above the garage. will not have a flat ceiling. will be sheet rocked to followed the rafters (vaulted). again, does this space above the garage which chief considers an attic need to be changed to a room with a minimal ceiling height to allow the stairs finding it as a second floor? thanks!

Totally agree. I have a shotgun house right now that will not fit on 24x36 at 1/4"=1'-0".

Think i may change it back to the way you guys do it and myself in the past. I have a sample set of plans from an architect that used the compass but the building is in a true NSEW position on a map so it made it easy for that project.