builtright3
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Posts posted by builtright3
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22 hours ago, joey_martin said:
Hmmm....just connect them with a "court" or "patio". Easy peasy and the construction docs are accurate.
Joey, that's a beautiful rendering and design!
Am I understanding you correctly that these two building are drawn in to separate plan files? If so would mind sharing how you brought them together in the same view?
Thank You? -
1 minute ago, Doug_N said:
Joe,
I misread your post. I thought you were referring to the size of the text, not to indicate the units. Using a note to indicate that the contour info is in feet should satisfy the plans examiner.
Yes, thank you.
The note is fine but still would like it to show it correctly if it was an easy thing to do. -
34 minutes ago, MPDesign said:
I couldn't get it to change to read with the foot mark either ( 7' ) might be a no go.
Yea, I gave up. I just made a reference to the elevation data being in Feet for the plan checker.
Thank you everyone for your help -
21 hours ago, Doug_N said:
Change the default text for Primary Contours Layer to a different size and/or font.
I changed it here but it didn't make a difference.
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Is there a way to change the number on the primary contours to have the foot symbol next to it?
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I think this is what your talking about
https://shop.leica-geosystems.com/blog/video/andys-introduction-blk360
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On 9/12/2020 at 12:59 PM, SNestor said:
Joe - I did the best I could with your plan...got it maybe 95%.
The thing about stairs is you need to make sure they are contained in a "room". That is the biggest thing. I also created a foundation below the room...I called it a garage just to quickly create a room with a slab. You may not want that...but, I was just trying to get a floor under the stair.
I made some notes on the plans attached to help clarify what I did. I had to break the stair rail wall in a number of places and change the rail designation and heights to get it all to work...but the key to everything is using some invisible walls on the 2nd floor to create a "room".
Hope the attached plan fix helps...Harco Plan 2 - Steve Fix.plan
On 9/12/2020 at 3:27 AM, Mark3D said:I played with this problem I got it working in very manual way i remove railing settings and room definition and draw post and beams manually to get it working, also edited the wall to shape of railings manually and drew a floor slab manually this might be a way out of this problem
Thank you both for your help! I was finally able to finish this plan you helped me with. I used ideas and techniques from both of your plans that you worked on and I was able to achieve what I needed.
I really appreciate your help -
I found out that Eave vents are not required if I can use dormer and gable vents and I like that better.
I'm not concerned with fire too much because 99% of my remodels are not in high fire zones and they are all additions so the existing house would not be altered for fire and it would only be the addition so what's the point anyway and I want to keep a consistent look. Also, we don't always replace the entire roof so we have to match up with existing.Thank you for your input, its is very much appreciated.
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22 hours ago, rlackore said:
You may already know everything I'm about to cover, but here we go. California's rules for low-rise residential provides for two basic scenarios:
If the air handlers and ducts are located in conditioned space (e.g. on a floor below the attic), then you can insulate the attic in a conventional manner, with the insulation placed above the ceiling to separate the unconditioned attic from the floor below. If you're placing the air handlers and ducts within the attic, then you have to create a conditioned space for the equipment by insulating both the ceiling (attic floor) and the roof deck; in this scenario, you don't have to condition the entire attic - you could create a separate conditioned space in the attic for the HVAC equipment.
Regardless, I suggest https://www.energy.ca.gov/sites/default/files/2020-06/03-BuildingEnvelope_ada.pdf as a good starting point; start reading on page 3-52.
Thank you for your help!
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23 hours ago, DzinEye said:
Joe, post the T-24 requirements document... something seems off. You shouldn't have to insulate both up at the rafters and down at the ceiling...that makes no sense.
Be that as it may... there's a product called insulation baffles or attic baffles that you can specify
https://www.google.com/search?q=insulation+baffles&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS804US804&oq=insulation+baffles&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.5230j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8Thank you, this is good information. I resolved my problem and I will keep this for future reference
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Just now, jmsisco said:
Here is a detail that may work for you.
See the attached pdf document for an Insulation resource.
The project is in Climate zone 9 and requirements will depend on if you are doing a vented or non vented attic.
Thank you, this is helpful
Yes that helps because it gives me a visual for what I need to do. I will have to v=create it without the soffit because mine are open rafter.
I wont need it right now though because the plan checker says I don't need to do eave vents and I can just use dormer vents. -
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One thing that I noticed in the title 24 is that I don't need the radiant barrier so I'm removing it. Apparently the extra R-19 insulation has more value.
Also, I spoke to the plan checker and according to code I don't need the eave vents at all. If I'm following the 1 to 150 ratio I can do it with gable vents and dormers for cross ventilation. In all the years I have been doing this I have never heard that. He said most new houses don't use eave vents because of the fire code.
I don't do new construction so I would have not known that.
So, I'm reading through R806 to get more familiar
Thank You! -
This is what I was trying to do. But how to I manipulate the insulation to have a 1" gap, path of travel is what im having a problem with. The title 24 is stating I have to have the insulation in-between the roof rafters and the ceiling joist which is a new requirement.
I guess I'm missing something but this correction ("B") is confusing to me.
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22 hours ago, dshall said:
Hi Guys,
Do you know of an Approval number for 1-hour wall (7/8" stucco & 5/8" type x on 2x4 @ 16).
I know, we have been using this 1-hour wall since I was in diapers, but I have a plan reviewer who wants me to prove this and now I cannot the approval number, more busy work.
Thanks
21 hours ago, DRAWZILLA said:That's the way I have done it also. Nobody has asked me to prove it though. Good luck with this one. Maybe you could make his car payment for a year or so as a sign of good faith.
The problem is the plan checker is probably still in diapers! LOL
I'm getting some very ridiculous corrections these days. I sure do miss the old days of drawing plans on a napkin for approval. However its good for the architect's to make money. All this red tape is another way to bleed money out of the people. California is the worst!
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I probably need a Californian for this one!
This wonderful energy code is now asking for not only R-30 in the ceiling joist but also R-19 in between the roof deck rafters. I'm not sure how to show a detail with the proper air flow gap from the roof eaves to the attic. I was wondering if anyone has a detail for this or can help me out in some way? I'm under the gun and this is the final correction on this plan.
These are open rafter tails with blocking. I will gladly pay for a detail if you already have one. I can draw it but I'm not even sure what it would look like.
Thank You -
29 minutes ago, DavidJPotter said:
DJP
Good job on that video David!
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21 hours ago, Kbird1 said:
Sounds like a glitch to me ......
almost like when the plan is closed the Layout is making the Notes full size ( 1:1) and it then rescales them when the plan opens....
(Similar to when you try dropping a CAD Detail from the library into Layout instead of Plan or a Cad Detail )
M.
Brilliant! I think your on to something!
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2 hours ago, BrownTiger said:
Just like with everything else, you check Plan Default> Text callouts markers> Notes = to see what exactly it says.
You hilight the note itself and see what text default it says.
You select the schedule... and check ALDO
Are you using a custom style?
I recommend create at least 3 styles: "Notes 1/4" Style", "Notes 1/2" Style", "Notes 1" Style".
As a general rule: Never apply custom style to any Notes, Text, always use
either a layer style or a plan style.
Without a plan I can only guess.
Thank you for your response.
I don't believe I'm explaining my problem correctly. I can try to do a video later and send it out if no one can help.Also, I think this is a system glitch and I may have to report it. I'm not doing anything custom or out of the ordinary. I try to use the program out of the box as much as I can to avoid these issues. As per instruction from my Chief webinar.
My notes are sent from a plan CAD file to layout. The size comes out right in layout but occasionally when I don't have the plan file open the size of the notes in layout are extra large as per my pictures (before and after). Then when I reopen the plan file the note size goes back to normal. -
Does anybody else have this problem?
The notes come out really large on the layout page sometimes. The only way to get it back to size is to open the floor plan.
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10 hours ago, SNestor said:
Joe - I did the best I could with your plan...got it maybe 95%.
The thing about stairs is you need to make sure they are contained in a "room". That is the biggest thing. I also created a foundation below the room...I called it a garage just to quickly create a room with a slab. You may not want that...but, I was just trying to get a floor under the stair.
I made some notes on the plans attached to help clarify what I did. I had to break the stair rail wall in a number of places and change the rail designation and heights to get it all to work...but the key to everything is using some invisible walls on the 2nd floor to create a "room".
Hope the attached plan fix helps...Harco Plan 2 - Steve Fix.plan
Thank you!
This helps a lot. Between what others have shared I think on Monday when I rebuild it I will have all that I need and I will share the outcome.
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On 9/9/2020 at 7:42 PM, ChiefUserBigRob said:
i had this happen about a month ago. i ended up deleting the framing, was time consuming. every time i rebuilt the wall framing it came back.
I went to the attic layer and found that some how it generated two attic walls for each and so I deleted one each and the problem went away.
Select on wall and hit tab and you will know what I'm talking about. It should come up with a secondary wall if you have the same problem I'm experiencing.
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20 hours ago, Mark3D said:
Have you had any luck getting this file to work did you submit it to chief support I would be interested in the outcome I got it to work better but the one thing I could not fix is the peace of wall coming out at the corner of hand rail
No, I did not get everything resolved but I have a few ideas I will try on Monday when I get back in the office and I will update this thread with what I have learned.
If I learn anything! LOL
Crosshairs
in General Q & A
Posted
I agree, I would rather keep it all together. But because of all the ADU's and guest houses I have been doing lately I have done a couple of them separate because in some cases its easier. If the two or three structures are a lot different from each other then it can help with default setting and keep things from getting mixed up.
Thank you for the information.