builtright3

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Posts posted by builtright3

  1. I need to resize this site plan evenly on all sides to where the dimension you see here shows 200'-4 15/16.
    I tried to use the multiple copy tool but not sure what to enter in to get the proper measurement I need.

     

    I would appreciate any guidance anyone can give me

    Thank You

     

    Capture.thumb.PNG.dc79fc8c5aa08ba7ed99b9c7f7912ab8.PNG2.thumb.PNG.0af76183ee6ef4f2f3aa3d84942e1d1c.PNG

  2. Thank you guys for helping me with some great Ideas!

    I decided to give back by sharing what has most inspired me after getting some of your direction. Here is what I came up with and I'm sure I will use all these tools depending on what I my needs are.

     

    Remote with Ipad to Chief in computer:

     

    "Shapr3D" Create Funiture:

     

     

    "Pro Create":

     

     

    "Morpholio Trace"
    https://www.google.com/search?q=morpholio+trace+tutorial&oq=Mophio+Trace&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0i13i457j0i13l6.4286j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_UjPvX7jbI5nA0PEP5ZyHSA12

     

  3. On 12/29/2020 at 6:02 PM, Michael_Gia said:

    I bring an IPad to the site and use CADMATE which is a DWG viewer so I can at least measure off the plan while on site.
     

    Of course I have to export the plans to DWG format, which I usually do anyways for sharing with non-chiefer folk. 
     

    It’s a free App and works great on either iPad or iPhone. 

     

    link to app...
    https://apps.apple.com/ca/app/cadmate-dwg-viewer/id1436941904
     

     

    Cad mate is great example of what we need for Chief. Nice App thank you!

  4. On 12/30/2020 at 10:07 AM, LevisL said:

    I've gone back to sketching as-builts on my iPad as well. I find it quicker overall to complete. Also easier to just carry the iPad, laser and tape as opposed to lugging around a laptop on site. In addition to Morpholio Trace, there's Procreate which is also very good (I have both). Lots of brush choices, stamps, as many layers as you like, etc.

     

    I love drawing with the Apple Pencil over pen and paper because you can easily undo or erase when you screw up! There's also something about a nice architectural sketch that is just so satisfying, though mine look nowhere near as good as Robert's!!! Nicely done btw!

     

    I picked up some good tips from this guy and bought his Procreate pack. It was well worth it.

    https://architect-entrepreneur.teachable.com/p/30x40-s-procreate-pack

     

    This guys is great! Thank You

  5. Thanks guy! I really appreciate the input. I will be trying different ideas and seeing which one is best suited for me so all these Ideas are great! I'm most likely will purchase the Ipad pro at some point so whatever I do it will involve that.
    Sure would be nice if I could download Chief on it.

  6. Anyone know of a forum or discussion for ways to use Chief Architect with Ipad pro? I need to find out more about it and do some research but I don't know where to start. 

    I hear one way is to connect remotely to my computer to use it but I was also wondering if I can download the program on the Ipad?
     

    Any help would be appreciated
     

    Thank You

  7. 5 minutes ago, Richard_Morrison said:

    While there is some good information on this website, I would not be willing to use this calculator. It does not account for insulation or glazing area, so it provides only a rough approximation. If you have a highly insulated house, and carefully designed glazing with a high-efficiency AC unit, using this calculator will probably lead to the AC unit being oversized and therefore cycling too often, with a resulting loss of efficiency. 

     

    This particular project that I'm doing it calls out for a 3.5 Ton unit in the Title 24 for 2275 square feet of living space. Using this calculator it calls for 4.59 Ton.
    Also if you do the interior area it is actually around 2000 square feet so I'm thinking 4 ton should do it.

    I don't need exact, I just need to be close for budget purposes. The expert will come in and access the scope of work before the final decision is made.

    Also, I believe I understand enough about the thermo envelope and climate zone to figure this stuff out myself. I just want to be a little more accurate and feel good about my estimate and that I'm close.
     

  8. On 9/19/2020 at 8:06 PM, Joe_Carrick said:

    I didn't say that.  OTOH, I'm not sure it's something the Bldg Dept really needs.  But it is appropriate for the home owner to know that the system is adequate.

     

    Looks like Joe's question was never really answered and I have a similar question so I will add to this.

    I have been doing research HVAC sizing and was wondering if I can depend on this "AC Tonage Calculator" to give my customers adequate information for the size of system they should need. Also, it looks like measurements are taken from the interior area (Thermo Envelope) of each room and not total square feet with walls .
    Any thoughts and opinions would be great.
    https://learnmetrics.com/ac-tonnage-calculator/

  9. 4 hours ago, joey_martin said:

    @builtright3 No. Some suggest when there is a detached structure that you should do them in separate files, but I like to keep them in the same file. The pergola area between them is labeled as a patio room so that Chief recognizes them as one structure. 

     

    In rare occasions I will do detached units/garages in separate files, I 99.9% like to keep them together. 

     

    Here is another project I completed with a detached garage. I think the con docs are on this article as well.

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/blog/joey-martin/?__utma=67784003.357468371.1586026872.1607527455.1607821493.53&__utmb=67784003.2.10.1607821493&__utmc=67784003&__utmx=-&__utmz=67784003.1607821493.53.43.utmcsr=chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com|utmccn=(referral)|utmcmd=referral|utmcct=/&__utmv=-&__utmk=128962891

     

    I agree, I would rather keep it all together. But because of all the ADU's and guest houses I have been doing lately I have done a couple of them separate because in some cases its easier. If the two or three structures are a lot different from each other then it can help with default setting and keep things from getting mixed up.
    Thank you for the information.  

  10. 22 hours ago, joey_martin said:

    Hmmm....just connect them with a "court" or "patio". Easy peasy and the construction docs are accurate.

    Overview Concept.jpg

     

    Joey, that's a beautiful rendering and design!
    Am I understanding you correctly that these two building are drawn in to separate plan files? If so would mind sharing how you brought them together in the same view?

    Thank You?

  11. 1 minute ago, Doug_N said:

    Joe, 

     

    I misread your post.  I thought you were referring to the size of the text, not to indicate the units.  Using a note to indicate that the contour info is in feet should satisfy the plans examiner.  

     

    Yes, thank you.
    The note is fine but still would like it to show it correctly if it was an easy thing to do.

  12. 34 minutes ago, MPDesign said:

    I couldn't get it to change to read with the foot mark either ( 7' ) might be a no go. 

     

    Yea, I gave up. I just made a reference to the elevation data being in Feet for the plan checker.

    Thank you everyone for your help

  13. On 9/12/2020 at 12:59 PM, SNestor said:

     

    Joe - I did the best I could with your plan...got it maybe 95%.  

     

    The thing about stairs is you need to make sure they are contained in a "room".  That is the biggest thing. I also created a foundation below the room...I called it a garage just to quickly create a room with a slab. You may not want that...but, I was just trying to get a floor under the stair. 

     

    I made some notes on the plans attached to help clarify what I did. I had to break the stair rail wall in a number of places and change the rail designation and heights to get it all to work...but the key to everything is using some invisible walls on the 2nd floor to create a "room". 

     

    Hope the attached plan fix helps...Harco Plan 2 - Steve Fix.plan

     

     

     

    On 9/12/2020 at 3:27 AM, Mark3D said:

    I played with this problem I got it working in very manual way i remove railing settings and room definition and draw post and beams manually  to get it working, also edited the wall to shape of railings manually and drew a floor slab manually  this might be a way out of this problem

    Harco1.plan

    Thank you both for your help! I was finally able to finish this plan you helped me with. I used ideas and techniques from both of your plans that you worked on and I was able to achieve what I needed.
    I really appreciate your help

  14. I found out that Eave vents are not required if I can use dormer and gable vents and I like that better.
    I'm not concerned with fire too much because 99% of my remodels are not in high fire zones and they are all additions so the existing house would not be altered for fire and it would only be the addition so what's the point anyway and I want to keep a consistent look. Also, we don't always replace the entire roof so we have to match up with existing.

     

    Thank you for your input, its is very much appreciated.

  15. 22 hours ago, rlackore said:

    You may already know everything I'm about to cover, but here we go. California's rules for low-rise residential provides for two basic scenarios:

    code1.thumb.PNG.41d25a39c71225bcd20f246c2b057b93.PNG

    code2.thumb.PNG.ccf026294c6556b18e79b214d4c48ef8.PNG

    code3.thumb.PNG.fa6079024b111bed97439d8be9200e81.PNG

     

    If the air handlers and ducts are located in conditioned space (e.g. on a floor below the attic), then you can insulate the attic in a conventional manner, with the insulation placed above the ceiling to separate the unconditioned attic from the floor below. If you're placing the air handlers and ducts within the attic, then you have to create a conditioned space for the equipment by insulating both the ceiling (attic floor) and the roof deck; in this scenario, you don't have to condition the entire attic - you could create a separate conditioned space in the attic for the HVAC equipment.

     

    Regardless, I suggest https://www.energy.ca.gov/sites/default/files/2020-06/03-BuildingEnvelope_ada.pdf as a good starting point; start reading on page 3-52.

     

    Thank you for your help!

  16. 23 hours ago, DzinEye said:

    Joe, post the T-24 requirements document... something seems off.  You shouldn't have to insulate both up at the rafters and down at the ceiling...that makes no sense.
    Be that as it may... there's a product called insulation baffles or attic baffles that you can specify
    https://www.google.com/search?q=insulation+baffles&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS804US804&oq=insulation+baffles&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.5230j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

     

    Thank you, this is good information. I resolved my problem and I will keep this for future reference 

  17. Just now, jmsisco said:

    ecobatts.thumb.jpg.18cd06213afdf08932147d70f1828d76.jpg

     

    Here is a detail that may work for you.

    See the attached pdf document for an Insulation resource.

    The project is in Climate zone 9 and requirements will depend on if you are doing a vented or non vented attic.

     

     

     

    102219_BI_BID_285_CA_Title24_MultiFamily.pdf

     

    Thank you, this is helpful
    Yes that helps because it gives me a visual for what I need to do. I will have to v=create it without the soffit because mine are open rafter.
    I wont need it right now though because the plan checker says I don't need to do eave vents and I can just use  dormer vents.

  18. One thing that I noticed in the title 24 is that I don't need the radiant barrier so I'm removing it. Apparently the extra R-19 insulation has more value.

    Also, I spoke to the plan checker and according to code I don't need the eave vents at all. If I'm following the 1 to 150 ratio I can do it with gable vents and dormers for cross ventilation. In all the years I have been doing this I have never heard that. He said most new houses don't use eave vents because of the fire code.
    I don't do new construction so I would have not known that.
    So, I'm reading through R806 to get more familiar

    Thank You!

  19. This is what I was trying to do. But how to I manipulate the insulation to have a 1" gap, path of travel is what im having a problem with. The title 24 is stating I have to have the insulation in-between the roof rafters and the ceiling joist which is a new requirement.

    I guess I'm missing something but this correction ("B") is confusing to me.

    image.thumb.png.97c57aba8aa6c45699f98967d9208a92.png

     

    image.thumb.png.e8932876740b9587af1d005ff942bfe5.png

  20. 22 hours ago, dshall said:

    Hi Guys,

     

    Do you know of an  Approval number for 1-hour wall (7/8" stucco & 5/8" type x on 2x4 @ 16).

     

    I know,  we have been using this 1-hour wall since I was in diapers,  but I have a plan reviewer who wants me to prove this and now I cannot the approval number,  more busy work.

     

    Thanks

     

     

    21 hours ago, DRAWZILLA said:

    That's the way I have done it also. Nobody has asked me to prove it though. Good luck with this one. Maybe you could make his car payment for a year or so as a sign of good faith. 

     

    The problem is the plan checker is probably still in diapers! LOL

     

    I'm getting some very ridiculous corrections these days. I sure do miss the old days of drawing plans on a napkin for approval. However its good for the architect's to make money. All this red tape is another way to bleed money out of the people. California is the worst!