ACADuser

Just talked with tech support & he said they were putting the X8 team together in a week or two. Not sure what that means for a release date.

Yes this is exactly the look I was going for

Glen, Very cool!

Thanks RG I need to make the balusters parallel to the ramp / stair so i"ll give it a try.

I need to draw am entry stair with 6 or 8 steps with round aluminum rails but the cable rail panel has too small a cable. I need 3/4 or 1" horizontal members. Am I stuck with the molding tool? Can you even draw angled molding stacked or all needs to be individual members?

Maybe like this. Just added opening to Shane's version cheatheam-Peterek repair.plan

Good tip Wendy, I hate modifying the lines only to have the update undo all my work.

Looks like the truss can be done. Don't have the data sheet for it yet only the price quote.

Joey, my section view don't always update. I have to open & close them to force the update. What method are you using? Do you add the text in the section view or in the layout? Thanks

So the lumber you use is 38 x 89 mm ? I just want to know what your normal sizes are?

Looks very good!

So what are your normal chord thicknesses? Ours are 3.5" 5.5" 7.25" 9.25" etc Not sure if this is correct.

<Thread Hijack> OK How do Metric folks express the roof pitch? What are the 2 or 3 most common pitches?

Also if you change the floor in the 3D view you may not see a foundation or attic, so make sure your are looking at floor 1.

Yes inches. May do a metric if someone doesn't beat me to it. The Excel sheet should work on metric with a little modification.

For those who prefer decimals I just put this spread sheet together. CA Truss Rise.zip

Joe, Thanks for your input. I have done broken top cord trusses before but don't have the time to research it. As this is a recommendation to the truss mfg. I will go with it for now. It may be that they build a 16" truss with the extension on top to get the structural integrity needed. That too will save time for the carpenter. It will be 2-3 weeks before I get the actual truss profiles & will share the result with you. Attached is a balcony truss but not near the offset of this proposed truss. Thanks again.

Joey, Thanks for being persistent. I found that in the layer set within the "Open Truss Detail" has it's own layer set & indeed the layer was locked. How do you create your own objects in that screen? They are "Framing Members" I just copied what I needed.

Thinking about it more, you could a 16" truss I frame the floor up to the 40" level but a truss saves the carpenter some work.

Oh I call that the truss height. It is 40" tall and drops to 16" tall. This type of truss is made like a roof truss with the truss being 1-1/2" wide and not the usual 3-1/2" floor truss width. I see no problem as only a floor load & no roof load applied to the truss. This is a very complex area where the stair makes it way to the 2nd floor which is 14' above the 1st floor.

David the truss layer is unlocked & I can only resize the truss, no other edit. Hamlin, this is the truss CA makes Joe, I can not find where to edit the truss except in a "CAD detail from view" where it becomes CAD lines and is a one way trip, no updates if the plan moves. I will be better off exporting to ACAD where I can work with lines etc more efficiently.

The floor truss is 14' long. Joey I'll see if I can find that CAD detail

Thanks David. Not looking to make trusses you would build just like the roof trusses are not for construction but for general information. The truss company designs & builds all manufactured truss. That has been my experience. I'm just looking to supply realistic looking sections. Not actual sections. The solids tools are too slow for me at my level of experience.

So you can not modify a floor truss like you can a roof truss? I have a truss that needs to step down to a room with a lower floor level & CA drew the truss equal height on both ends. If I could break the top cord & pull the part down that I need it would work. I wanted to show this truss in section view so the step down was obvious.

Requires some dexterity to use, or short people. Would require a false bottom cabinet else the box would protrude into the cupboard space.