ACADuser
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Everything posted by ACADuser
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Joe, Thanks for your input. I have done broken top cord trusses before but don't have the time to research it. As this is a recommendation to the truss mfg. I will go with it for now. It may be that they build a 16" truss with the extension on top to get the structural integrity needed. That too will save time for the carpenter. It will be 2-3 weeks before I get the actual truss profiles & will share the result with you. Attached is a balcony truss but not near the offset of this proposed truss. Thanks again.
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Joey, Thanks for being persistent. I found that in the layer set within the "Open Truss Detail" has it's own layer set & indeed the layer was locked. How do you create your own objects in that screen? They are "Framing Members" I just copied what I needed.
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Thinking about it more, you could a 16" truss I frame the floor up to the 40" level but a truss saves the carpenter some work.
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Oh I call that the truss height. It is 40" tall and drops to 16" tall. This type of truss is made like a roof truss with the truss being 1-1/2" wide and not the usual 3-1/2" floor truss width. I see no problem as only a floor load & no roof load applied to the truss. This is a very complex area where the stair makes it way to the 2nd floor which is 14' above the 1st floor.
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David the truss layer is unlocked & I can only resize the truss, no other edit. Hamlin, this is the truss CA makes Joe, I can not find where to edit the truss except in a "CAD detail from view" where it becomes CAD lines and is a one way trip, no updates if the plan moves. I will be better off exporting to ACAD where I can work with lines etc more efficiently.
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The floor truss is 14' long. Joey I'll see if I can find that CAD detail
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Thanks David. Not looking to make trusses you would build just like the roof trusses are not for construction but for general information. The truss company designs & builds all manufactured truss. That has been my experience. I'm just looking to supply realistic looking sections. Not actual sections. The solids tools are too slow for me at my level of experience.
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So you can not modify a floor truss like you can a roof truss? I have a truss that needs to step down to a room with a lower floor level & CA drew the truss equal height on both ends. If I could break the top cord & pull the part down that I need it would work. I wanted to show this truss in section view so the step down was obvious.
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Requires some dexterity to use, or short people. Would require a false bottom cabinet else the box would protrude into the cupboard space.
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Very realistic. I would rotate the GFI's & lower into the white tile band.
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From the notes drawing this is what I got. I did not develop the entire front elevation.
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When I mull windows together they display a casing & my window default has no casing displayed. How do you set the default for Mulled Windows to no have casing?
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That's a good one jon. I just added that to my CA Tips File.
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Clever solution tommy. The font style in my example is a must.
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Thanks. I can do it easy in ACAD so I guess I will import an image into CA to keep it all together. Oops the image in the previous post did not attach.
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Yes I needed some transparency. I wanted the darker color to bleed through the gray text.
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I want to add some transparent text. How is this done in CA. Big And Bold Letters but in a faded gray color with background showing through.
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OK Thanks for the conformation. I just had him Backup entire plan and resend. It now opens.
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Got a plan from a friend in the industry & I can not open it. Message "Unable to open the file", followed by the file's name. I have Primer x7 so is the plan damaged? Proposed Room Add.plan
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I don't think that pipe came form CA. Looks like the real thing.
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Yes, indicates a very old structure.
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I used dividing walls on the first floor directly under the closet and it worked well in this case.
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OK I get a call to day to change the 2nd floor closet floor elevation. Need the closet floor (cross hatched) on the 2nd floor to be lowered 7.5" and NOT change any other rooms! The ceiling above will remain in the same location, not come down 7.5" The entry into the master will have to have a thicker floor by 7.5" to accommodate trusses and make that portion of ceiling in the garage the same in North South direction. The step in the ceiling to the West will remain as is. What is the best method to accomplish this? (before I screw the plan up) 46th Ave Townhouse B.zip
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Thanks all for all the interest in the thread. I just thought that with automated software you could do things automatically. Not.
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Rod I took from you plan & tried to use in mine but fell short as I needed to extend the plate and add 2 more rafters. But I can not figure out how to edit your objects.
