SNestor

Yep...I'm with you.

Scott - thanks for the compliments...but really, it's all trial and error. That is why I don't do these too often...only when I have some time and feel like messing with Ray Tracing. Doing this Outdoor RT I have learned a few things... - Seems to me the biggest factor in changing the brightness is the "Lighting" menu in the RT menu. I have experimented...and to me somewhere between 3-4 is good. - I have also experimented with the color of the sun light. White is typical...but for this RT I have used a very soft "yellow". A very light "blue" sunlight is good also. Just depends on the backdrop and the colors on the house. - I also adjust the sunlight so that it shines on the house and creates the shadows I want. I don't ever just use the standard "sun follows camera". - I've recently been experimenting with "focal blur". If you put something in the foreground...and lower the F-Number...I used 1.4 in the attached RT...it will put some blur on things in the foreground...gives the RT a real "camera" feel. I didn't use Photon Mapping...not sure what it is...but I think I tried it a few times and didn't like the way it looked. I don't know what "Ambient Occlusion" is...or how it really effects the RT. For the attached RT I used 0.3 for the minimum and 1.0 for the maximum. Whatever that means. I also used "Enable Environment Light (Outside)"...intensity is set to 1.0 (which I think is the default?) I also checked "Use Sky"...whatever that means. Sounded logical for an exterior RT. Dennis...thanks for the tips. In the attached RT I changed the grass...changed the X and Y scale to 60x60. Added a bump map. Same for the brick...I added a bump map. - Just FYI...for the grass...all I did was copy the "texture" file into the "Bump Map" file field and added a "Height Multiplier"...in this case 0.03. I did the same for the brick..but inverted the height multiplier. I also adjusted the height of the plants to make them look a bit more "realistic". These things really did improve the RT. Thanks!

I have been saving files as you guys have described...but, I do think one of the plusses of the CA system is that any new materials created or used get saved with the file. You don't have to wonder what happened to the roofing you used...or that special brick, siding or flooring.

Since no one replied I gather this "recommended" method is not used by many. To summarize...when you have completed say a "revision" of the plan, CA recommends that you choose the file/backup entire plan. Save this file to a new "folder" within the project folder and name the folder with a version system...to indicate the day the changes were made. It's a nice system...I think. I may give it a try on a project to see if it works for me.

Don't think the "shelf ceiling" will do the trick...as the vaulted ceiling is in both the master bedroom and the master bath. If I designate the bath area room to have the "shelf" ceiling...well, I lose my vaulted ceiling. Would you recommend using a "wall divider" to create a little room...maybe on the bath side...then designate this "room" to have the shelf ceiling? I'll give that a shot... Thanks guys

Hope Michael is still watching this thread. Ok...why does the wall over the bedroom door travel all the way to the roof? Why doesn't the ceiling (vaulted) cut this wall off? Thanks...

Well...that was simple. Holy cow... Thanks Michael!

Believe me...I really no idea how to explain to anyone how to ray trace. With me it's just trial and error. I don't know how to create or use bump or normal maps...and I only use Chief. But...I think a ray trace like the attached would be good enough to help sell a job to a client. I wish I knew more...but, ray tracing is time consuming and I only do these for my own enjoyment and training...or, if a client really needs something to help them understand a final design. Here is one of my latest...all Chief. Basic settings. For me...I think adjusting the sunlight makes the biggest impact. But...keep in mind, I don't know what I'm doing.

I watched a Chief video this morning about their recommended method to save "versions" of a plan...it was interesting. I was wondering if those of you who use the software regularly use this method....or not. My method has been to just save a file with a version designation...but, I do like the tracking ability of the CA recommended method. What do you all think? Here is the video...https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/1951/file-management-sharing-collaborating.html?playlist=81

I have a wall between a bedroom and a bathroom where the wall is only 9' tall...but open above. The vaulted ceiling travels over the wall into the bathroom. If I designate this wall as "no located"...then the vaulted drywall ceiling above works fine, but I lose my room definition. Plan attached: Nestor House Plans X9.plan

Mike, For the "exercise"...I worked on your plan. Take a look. Maybe it will help. It's a nice elevation... Rancher (056) v05.plan

See my signature...specs are listed. My MAC is 2 years old...so, not sure it's the same today. But my MAC works fantastically with Chief.

I didn't construct the dormer...but this should get you started. David Michael has got it right. I built the roof manually....I just find it easier than messing with auto build. Also...I didn't not change the plan...but to get the house to look like the "plan"...you will have to make some changes to the porch etc. Rancher (056) v05.plan

Just FYI...it appears that the front porch should extend out in front of the garage face. You have the porch wall and the garage wall aligned. It will be difficult to create the look shown in the attached PDF. So..I think you will need to modify the floor plan. Maybe I'm wrong...others may chime in.

Turn "OFF" the "Framing, Wall" layer...in the Camera View set...weird. But, it works. Thanks Michael...(I would have never figured that out)

I'm wondering why sometimes I don't see the "fir framing" when I'm working in the wall dialogue box (this walls happens to be the OOB Interior-4 wall)....see pic attached. Do I have to have the "framing, wall" layer turned on in the layerset being used?

Michael...thanks so much for taking the time. That was very helpful. It's weird...to get the software to build a ceiling (and not a floor) in the garage...a space with no ceiling dividing the two areas was required. Now...I bet that isn't in the manual. Thanks for pointing out that I needed a "bearing" line to clean up that weird intersection. I had no idea why that was being created... Final pic...

Michael...I gave your method a shot. No luck.. I did get the cantilevered floor to build correctly...but only if I specify that the garage has no ceiling. I cannot figure out how to NOT get the 2x10 floor joists to build in the garage ceiling area. The area above the ceiling is not a defined room...so, I'm not sure where the software is getting this specification. This is the kind of stuff that I guess is just easier to do manually...

I have another question related to the same plan... Can one of you gurus tell me how to frame the 2nd floor where it cantilevers into the garage. Why won't auto framing put a rim joist under the cantilevered wall? I put a "bearing line" under this wall...but that doesn't work. Any ideas? Maybe I just have to frame something like this manually?

Maybe someone could do a video on this topic. I have generally built boxed/bay windows manually...but, it's difficult to say the least. At least for me...I'm no guru. I hadn't realized that the "box window" tool was so limiting. Thanks for posting Joey...learned something new...again.

I'm not using "trusses"...it's all stick framing. I was using 3 1/2" rafters because this job is going to use Trusses...just haven't gotten to the point of putting the trusses in. All that is showing is "auto roof framing"... BTW...I've watched your framing color videos...and remember you talking about the "soffit" controlling colors...but in all honesty, I don't remember the how or why. Also...I learned all this from your videos...which are required viewing by all those new to Chief. Believe me...you will/can learn a lot.

The "mud sill" width is controlled by the foundation wall...but, the location of this "mud sill" is centered on the wall above...as Alaskan_Son stated this sill plate is then centered on the "main layer" of the wall above it. This behavior is "dumb"....but it is what it is. The options are to change the mud sill width to something wide...like 6" or 8"...it will then align correctly...but, it won't appear correct...and it won't flow to a material list correctly. Therefore...the solution is redefine the wall definition as the Alaskan_Son pointed out above...or manually fixing it. Or...just make the mud sill wider as Scott suggested and live with it. Scott mentioned that I didn't use different colors for my rafters/trusses etc. I really hadn't messed with the roof...but, attached is how it could look. White is 2x4 rafters, purple is 2x6 rafters. Orange is 2x6 ceiling joists. I wouldn't normally frame the roof this way...it's just an example of what you can do. Also, I named the materials specifically so that when they flow to a material list (if I ever need to have a material list) each item would be specifically called out...as opposed to a general material like "Fir Framing".... I've never used a material list...so, I cannot say with great knowledge that my strategy actually works....someone may chime in to let me know. Thanks guys for helping me out.

Here is the plan...the wall is between the laundry and the garage... House_Plan_Ex_-_Wall_Plate.plan

I have gone through the wall definition...to no avail. Changed the wall type to OOB "Fire-6"...reframed...same result. Below are pics of the wall definition...which is basically an OOB Interior-6.

I have a 2x6 wall that separates the house from the garage...when I build the auto build the framing it places a 2x4 sill plate under the wall on top of the foundation but the plate is aligned to the inside of the wall. I've tried flipping the wall from interior to exterior...that doesn't work. Is this just a quirk in the software or is it user error? It's no big deal to fix it...just pull it over into the correct location...but, every time you rebuild the framing it moves it back to the incorrect location.