SNestor

If you takes Eric's profile and make the bottom flat...change the pitch to 15 degrees if you prefer...save this profile in your library and attach it as a sill it fills the gap. I don't think it's worth the time or trouble to use molding PL to create a "perfect" brick sill...to time consuming. attached is the revised plan with the new sill. Yea...it's not perfect but if you have to draw a section of a standard typical brick sill in exact detail for a brick mason...maybe you need new mason? Erics modified b-sill X9.plan

Can someone take a look at the attached plan and tell me why there is a piece of gable end wall extending past and through the roof? I've tried a lot of things with no luck... It's the rear gable end over the master bedroom...the master bedroom has a vaulted ceiling. I'm wondering if this has something to do with it? Thanks... here's the plan...ranch example plan 1.plan.zip

Scott - did you buy a new MAC? If so...how was it configured? My two cents on the Mac vs PC. I used a PC for twenty years. I loved Windows 7...it was a solid piece of software. But...because I use an iPhone and have IPad...decided to switch when I needed a new computer about 3 years ago. Got an iMac and I’m thrilled with it. Yes...you can build a more powerful PC...but the thing I love about the Mac is it just works. It’s so easy to use...it’s truly dummy proof. Is it the most powerful...no, but it gets the job done.

Well...that explains that. Thanks.

So...I gather from all the comments that most of you don't use the cabinet DBX to place the appliance? Attached is my sample plan...two cabinets shown. The one on the left of the plan I sized the opening per the appliance size specs...placed it into cabinet manually...worked like a charm. For the cabinet on the right...I sized the opening the exact same as the cabinet on the left...attempted to place the appliance...and you can see in the pic below the result. At first I kept getting the "appliance will not fit into opening statement"....so, I kept making the opening and the cabinet larger until I got the second pic...which placed the appliance in front of the cabinet. Is this just a "glitch" in CA...or what? In the cabinet videos that Chief has produced they really don't show how to place a refrigerator...at least I didn't find one specific to that task. They do have a video that shows how to place a dishwasher, microwave and double ovens. The ovens are placed using the cabinet DBX...the dishwasher is just dropped into a base cabinet and it replaces the doors/drawers automatically. Chief should standardize this process...pick a method and use it for all appliances. The varying methods just confuse and waste time... refrigerator 1.plan

Thanks for your help Eric. I’ll give it another shot in the morning and let you know.

Yea...I’ve tried that numerous times without success. Does the space created in the cabinet have to be the exact size of the appliance?

So...if I want to place a built in refrigerator into a full height cabinets...can I just place the appliance into the cabinet...or, do you have to make a hole (or space) for the refrigerator big enough for it to go into. Also...do you place the appliance manually...or, use the "appliance" section in the cabinet dialogue box? The reason I'm asking is I've tried a number of methods and I just can't get anything to work. Wondering if it's a software glitch or I'm just confused (very possible...). Thanks. Just place the ref appliance... or Use the Cabinet DBX?

Just want to mention...Joey Martin produces plans that are unrivaled. He's truly a professional.

Thanks Eric...I do these so rarely I forget how. I just used a p-solid. It’s easy and fast. Also - as you suggested - just grabbing the pony wall and pulling it in corrected the attic wall...

Quick question...can an attic wall be a "pony wall"? I'm trying to create this gable end detail where there is a protruding decorative gable over a "siding covered" gable. See attached pic. This wall is designated as an "attic wall"...but, as you can see the roof is not trimming the wall off.

Eric...thanks much for the help and info. The second floor may have something to do with it as I don't recall having this problem using an OOB template...which didn't have a second floor. May have to experiment to see... Thanks again.

Perry - thanks. That makes sense...

Thank you Eric...that worked. One more question...does the gable end wall above the porch ceiling (roof cuts wall at bottom) have to be a separate wall from the main gable end wall? I had it as one long wall...and selected roof cuts at bottom...and it messed up the entire wall. Thanks again...

Attached is a test plan that closely represents the plan I'm working on...I got the same result. I think I'm doing something wrong...but, not sure what. Thanks for looking... GABLE END WALL ISSUE - PLAN.plan

Can anyone tell me why when I create this gable end wall which extend over a porch room that has a sloped ceiling plane...why the ceiling plane cuts off the gable end and it ends up sticking down below the sloped ceiling plane? I thought if I selected "roof cuts wall at bottom"...that might help...but it didn't. In PIC #1 you can see the gable end wall sticking down below the porch sloped ceiling. In PIC #2...I tried pulling the roof all the wall into the building and using "roof cuts wall at bottom"...but that didn't work either. In PIC #3...I pulled the roof back to the face of the gable end wall. Same result. I'm hoping someone can help just by looking at some pics...as the file is large. If not...I'll try to simplify the plan and upload. Thanks

Use the "Floor Overview" command button...

Good tip Eric...I have never thought of using the. FMR.

I gave it a shot... I created the gable on the front...just tried to make it look like the house. I used attic walls on level #3...but allowed them to have "room definition"...this helped create the wide soffit. The soffit and the "floor" of the attic room don't exactly line up...you will have to make some small adjustment...but, it works somewhat. Someone with more experience may chime in with a better solution... Home-fix1.plan Home-fix1.plan

Use the "room divider" wall type to create an invisible division between two adjacent spaces... The pic of the plan shows the "room divider" wall...I placed carpet on one side and hardwood flooring on the other.

Go to YouTube and look for DSHALL videos on Chief. Some may be a bit to difficult at this point...but he has a number of videos that go through some basic stuff too. here's a link to his YouTube page...https://www.youtube.com/user/dshall44

I'm in the camp of less regulation is better for everyone. Yes..there will be bad designers...but, with all the regulations Architects face I still see some bad architecture. Let's face it. The large publicly traded home builders such as Pulte, David Weekley, D R Horton, CalAtlantic...etc have the cash to hire the best architects to design their homes. Have you seen some of their subdivisions? The homes are mostly out of scale behemoths. Floor plans that don't work for the owner...but, the plans are big boxes that are easy to construct. And...they fit nicely on their tiny little square plots of land. In Indy...we have some of these builders throwing up houses by the hundreds. All I see is "cookie cutter" when driving through these subdivisions. Who am I to comment...these builders sell these homes everyday - all day. Is the architecture any good...well, not to me but obviously I'm in the minority. The public has voted...they want their house to look a lot like their neighbors house. Unique is defined by the exterior paint color. As far as regulating designers...I think if the AIBD did a better job of selling their certification to the general public it might help. If potential clients knew the value of having an AIBD certification this could be a reason for designers to join AIBD and get certified. As it is right now...the only people that know about AIBD are designers that join in order to get certified. The general public has no clue what AIBD is.

Well...I got the barrel roof to work. (even a blind squirrel can find a nut now and then...) Used a single roof plane and set the pitch to zero. I started by locking the baseline at the same elevation as the 12/12 hip roof...but found that I had to use transform/replicate to move the roof down a bit so that it looked correct. I then adjusted the curved roof "Angle at ridge" number to -60.0 degrees. The funny thing is...if I adjusted this number higher than -60 degrees...the roof trim got funky. -60.0 degrees seemed to be the max I could use if I wanted this curved roof to work. Maybe it has something to do with it's relationship to the adjacent hip roof...who knows. It's all trial and error. here's my settings;

I guess my question still stands...why is the fascia of the curved roof extending to the ground? I used two roofs...curved them. I tried to get them to sit on top of the hip roof...not sure I actually accomplished this. Let me ask this...does the ceiling (or lack of a ceiling) in the room have anything to do with the funky nature of the barrel roof?

Eric, thanks for making an attempt. I think because you placed a single roof segment "flat"...it is cutting off the top of the window and not allowing the stone above the window. Also...you used a molding polyline for the fascia...which works...but, this is an extra step I for one do not want to do...unless of course there's no other way. Gotta be a way....