SNestor

Richard - Thanks for your comments. The thing is...I don't want to keep my "standard" notes and detail plans in the same directory as the JOB.plan file and JOB.layout files. I would prefer to keep them in a separate directory...like Joe suggested...in my documents directory...or, maybe out on DropBox. I don't intend to have a specific JOB NOTES.plan file in one of my job folders. Although, I can see I may need a specific JOB NOTES.plan file...so, I think the key is to name the "general notes plan" something like GENERAL NOTES.plan...and the specific job notes file...JOB NOTES.PLAN. This way I can link both files to the layout...without confusion? Yes? Feel free to comment...I can't say with any certainty I know what I'm talking about. I will be experimenting over the next few days as time permits...so, I'll know more in a week or so.

I think every cross section and detail has been created from a "Cad Detail". It appears to me that section cameras were sent to a "Cad Detail From View"...then edited (made to look better?) and then sent to layout. As such, these views aren't "live"...which might be ok if you knew 100% there wouldn't be any further changes made. Based on the limited responses...I gather this set of plans really isn't typical? And...not very interesting to most people. I personally like the overall look of the plans...the 3D renderings and framing perspectives...I think things like this can make your product stand out in the "design/drafting" world...maybe not. Of course you still have to find a client willing to pay you adequately for such workmanship - and that may be the bigger problem.

I have been watching the videos Chief put together concerning the "Grandview Plans" they created. The plan set is impressive...good use of the 3D capabilities Chief has. Also, the details are very nicely drawn using color fills to enhance the details. First question: - I'm wondering how much you would charge to create a similar plan set...I realize the cost will vary depending on where you work. Or...better yet, how many hours should it take to create a similar plan set once the design work is complete? The Chief plan set is extensive...and impressive. Very well detailed. Second question: -Does this set of plans represent the type of plans you typically put together for your clients? I ask...because it seems to me to be a bit of overkill...but, maybe not. I'm wondering if your builder clients would want to pay for a set this detailed. Or...even a more detailed set. Just curious. Thanks.

Thanks for the info...very helpful

Thanks Joe... One more question about other plan files... What do you do with those files when Chief issues a new version of the program? If you open and save them to the new version...what happens to older plans that are linked to them?

Well...thats good news. I wonder if I was the only one who thought that these plan files had to be stored in the same directory as the layout? Thanks for the info Michael.

Question for the gurus... If I create a plan file that includes general plan notes...such as framing notes, roof notes, siding notes, general notes etc. Does this notes plan have to be stored in the same directory as a new job plan set? I know it is suggested that the plan files and it's layout file should typically be saved in the same directory...but what about other plan files, such as a "details plan" or a "sections plan"...that houses just typical drawings. Do these plans have to be located in the same directory with the job base plan and layout? Thanks!

OK...I was unaware of that issue. Scott is right...Chief, fix that.

I feel your pain Perry. However, if you have a job with both conventional and truss roof framing...how can you make both work. Every time you rebuild the roof to make it work for trusses...the conventional roof will also change. If it were me...I'd give the conventional roofs a "fill" or a "line style" and maybe put them on their own layer...then check "retain roof framing"...then go to work on my truss roof. You can always go back and "uncheck" the "retain roof framing" box... How else can you do it? Inquiring minds want to know... Just my two cents...I don't have much experience with "as-built" drawings.

Scott - if you have multiple structures...with different roof types. Why not build the conventional roofs first and then lock those roofs with the "retain roof framing" option. They won't rebuild or move. Then build your truss roofs where they are needed. This method would keep the conventional roofs from "rebuilding". And give you the flexibility to adjust the truss roof condition as needed to get the design the way you want it to look. What do you think?

Scott...when you change to "Truss" it changes the "birds mouth cut" to "0", "0". When you frame conventional and you don't have "Truss" checked...you may need to adjust the birds mouth cut... I'm no expert...but I'm not having these problems. Also...(I'm not sure about this...maybe Alaskan Son can comment) - after you build a roof plane (like in your vid) you may need to use the "edit all roofs" command instead of the "build roof" dialogue. I'm guessing...so, take this advice for what it's worth.

Here is the same truss...ceiling drawn from inside surface.

I agree with the Alaskan Son...it doesn't matter where you define the ceiling...either draw it from the outside...or the inside. You will need to adjust either the "inside bottom height"...or the "outside bottom height" to make the ceiling plane land in the proper location...

I created a simple plan using one of Chief's OOB plan templates. I built the framing...all looked good. The mud sill plates all met the corners. The plate width was the OOB 5 1/2" width. I did some experimenting. - I started by specifying a 3 1/2" plate. They plates did not meet in the corner. - I increased the width to 4"...and bingo. The plates all met in the corners. Crazy. It seems if the you specify a mud sill (in the foundation wall dbx) and it's width is 3 5/8" or less...the plates will not meet in the corners. This exercise did teach me that the plate specification in the foundation wall DBX controls the size/width/qty of the mud sill. There is also a place to specify the "plate" in the wood frame wall DBX...which I think is there only if you are using a slab foundation. I'm not sure...but this makes sense since you wouldn't typically be using an 8" concrete foundation wall if you were using a slab... Looks like a glitch to me?

I think the corner intersections are missing at every corner. That's my point. Is this normal Chief behavior...and if I want the corners to look correct I will have to manually edit? Perry is right...it's not a big deal because it's not something that you would typically show in a set of ConDocs. I'm just wondering if I have something set wrong.

No...I don't have "retain framing" on... A plan file is attached...maybe when/if you have time you can take a look. It's not the end of the world...but, I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong. Thanks Plan - Sill Plate X9.plan

Can anyone tell me why the sill plate corners don't come together? Is there a wall setting that controls this...that I might be missing? Or....is this just the way the program works? Thanks for looking...

Yea...you are right. It doesn't appear on my phone either. Must be a Mobile App thing Steve Nestor Chief X7, X8, X9 27" iMac 3.5GHz Intel Core i7 1TB Hard Drive 16GB Ram 1600MHz DDR3 NVidia GeForce GTX 775M with 2GB memory

Scott - this last RT was 100 passes. Not sure how much time...maybe a bit more than an hour. Honestly, there wasn't much difference from 50 passes. I just set it and left. I use a 2 year old Mac. See my signature. It's powerful enough...

Yep...I'm with you.

Scott - thanks for the compliments...but really, it's all trial and error. That is why I don't do these too often...only when I have some time and feel like messing with Ray Tracing. Doing this Outdoor RT I have learned a few things... - Seems to me the biggest factor in changing the brightness is the "Lighting" menu in the RT menu. I have experimented...and to me somewhere between 3-4 is good. - I have also experimented with the color of the sun light. White is typical...but for this RT I have used a very soft "yellow". A very light "blue" sunlight is good also. Just depends on the backdrop and the colors on the house. - I also adjust the sunlight so that it shines on the house and creates the shadows I want. I don't ever just use the standard "sun follows camera". - I've recently been experimenting with "focal blur". If you put something in the foreground...and lower the F-Number...I used 1.4 in the attached RT...it will put some blur on things in the foreground...gives the RT a real "camera" feel. I didn't use Photon Mapping...not sure what it is...but I think I tried it a few times and didn't like the way it looked. I don't know what "Ambient Occlusion" is...or how it really effects the RT. For the attached RT I used 0.3 for the minimum and 1.0 for the maximum. Whatever that means. I also used "Enable Environment Light (Outside)"...intensity is set to 1.0 (which I think is the default?) I also checked "Use Sky"...whatever that means. Sounded logical for an exterior RT. Dennis...thanks for the tips. In the attached RT I changed the grass...changed the X and Y scale to 60x60. Added a bump map. Same for the brick...I added a bump map. - Just FYI...for the grass...all I did was copy the "texture" file into the "Bump Map" file field and added a "Height Multiplier"...in this case 0.03. I did the same for the brick..but inverted the height multiplier. I also adjusted the height of the plants to make them look a bit more "realistic". These things really did improve the RT. Thanks!

I have been saving files as you guys have described...but, I do think one of the plusses of the CA system is that any new materials created or used get saved with the file. You don't have to wonder what happened to the roofing you used...or that special brick, siding or flooring.

Since no one replied I gather this "recommended" method is not used by many. To summarize...when you have completed say a "revision" of the plan, CA recommends that you choose the file/backup entire plan. Save this file to a new "folder" within the project folder and name the folder with a version system...to indicate the day the changes were made. It's a nice system...I think. I may give it a try on a project to see if it works for me.

Don't think the "shelf ceiling" will do the trick...as the vaulted ceiling is in both the master bedroom and the master bath. If I designate the bath area room to have the "shelf" ceiling...well, I lose my vaulted ceiling. Would you recommend using a "wall divider" to create a little room...maybe on the bath side...then designate this "room" to have the shelf ceiling? I'll give that a shot... Thanks guys

Hope Michael is still watching this thread. Ok...why does the wall over the bedroom door travel all the way to the roof? Why doesn't the ceiling (vaulted) cut this wall off? Thanks...