JonathanK

That wall is set to invisible, so it's showing as totally missing. You can do it a couple of ways, and it kind of depends on how it's framed. The easiest way that I can think of, would be to make that section of wall a pony wall. Set the top wall type as your typical exterior wall, and your bottom wall as your typical interior wall. Set the elevation of lower wall top to be somewhere near the ridge of that shed roof, and set the Display in Plan View as "Lower Wall". Then I'd place an interior opening (with no casing or jamb), and make it the width of the stairs and little nook area, and make it slightly shorter than the inside roof surface. There will likely be a lip or something in there for a beam...so that would accurately represent that area. Not sure if any of that makes sense.

It's your 2X6 walls that you have on the inside of your foundation. They are creating little micro rooms between the framing wall and the foundation wall. Anywhere they connected to the foundation wall, you had another room. They were locked as well, so you cannot select them. Once I deleted those, it looked better. I would add a new wall type for your foundation that includes all the layers of that 2X6 wall on the "inside" layer of the foundation wall type. Either that, or drag one of the 2X6 walls away from the foundation wall, adjust the room floors, and then drag it back. You might have to do that multiple times until you get all the "hidden rooms". It all depends on how you do your layouts, and plan sets.

Just above where it says "In from Baseline". It says "Upper Pitch". That should match the same pitch as your house.

For the record...you could have had this roof banged out, done, and moved on to other projects in about 15 minutes if you did it manually. And adjusting it later is easy as well...so I don't know what the hang up is. Just because there's auto-build, doesn't mean you should use it.

You need to adjust your "in from baseline" number. That's what pushes the steeper roof pitch back. Get it so that it lines up with your main roof. Either by trial and error, or by....well...probably trial and error will be the easiest. And make sure that your Upper Pitch matches what the main roof is. Right now it looks like it's shallower.

Make the pitch of the cricket what it actually needs to be. Don't make it 0.

I'm going to have to try this out...never thought of that.

Just quickly looking through, there is this option. If you know the pitch of your cricket (roof between gables), and you do some math on where it switches pitch, you can get it to line up correctly. But I'm still 100% on board with just doing this roof manually...

Whew...with auto is gnarly. Maybe break a little 3"-6" section and change that little section to hip? I would definitely draw it manual...not sure why you would HAVE to draw it auto. It would be easier to change down the road doing it all manual anyways. EDIT: Just tested it, and it needs to be a 6" chunk.

Definitely a point marker user...my only wish is that you could "snap" them to the corner of the structure. They will snap on elevations, but not on the floor plans. But getting close works as well.

My email and phone line are waiting for Chief to reach out I don't love the manual way either, but it's clear that our team needs to do something different. Funny how it's never really been a problem until I stop and think about it. Like...how would truss manufacturers know what heel height is?!

@robdyck, 100%! I have found even sometimes simple roofs won't show the heel height correctly...if even at all! I'm all-in for rocking the boat a little to make them think of a different and more accurate way to report heel heights. I would even...dare I say...consider getting rid of "Baseline Height" and only having heel height. For our company, and our industry, this would be an absolute game-changer. Being able to just show our truss suppliers what the heel height needs to be quickly and easily would eliminate many many potential issues. For the guys out there wanting to make stairs better...meh...they probably could care less about heel heights

Thanks all for chiming in. I actually emailed Chief, and got the same response. They will be logging a feature request. This would save us a tremendous amount of time and effort on our roof plans!...and eliminate errors for our truss manufacturers.

Just wondering if the macro guru's out there have a way of making a label for roof planes like this: Where everything is pulled from the roof plane itself, and not manually typed...

Could you find a good repeatable "breaking point" and just make one panel that includes the balusters and the custom panel? Then you don't have to try and break and do funkyness. Meaning...what if you make this section in red one panel. That's your repeat, set that as your custom panel and then it should work?...