Doug_N

My setup is in my signature. The video card is an RTX 3080Ti which seems to handle rendering at a very reasonable speed. Of course an RTC 4080 or 4080Ti would be significantly better. The GTX 970 will not perform physical rendering for you, so that needs to be changed for sure.

You can still have automatic roofs by setting the default roof dialog to ignore the upper storey.

Really good advice!

Hit the nail on the head Gene. Let's hope that the manufacturer isn't a hole in the wall company that only has pictures or a gallery of their wonderful product and actually has that type of data on their website. A lot of retrofit manufactures (cheap cheap cheap) have scant information about what they do and how it's made.

Hey thanks for that Robert. I have never experienced this strange behavior. The work around seems to work sometimes. I will report this though.

Glen, those are the lot lines. From the intersection of the wall to the lot line is a valid dimension and should be accepted. I have done this lots of times with X-16

1036 Sandcliff Drive Oshawa.zip

Strangely enough, although it looks wrong in plan it is fine in 3D including the molding continuing around the jamb or through when flush with the wall. I then wondered, what if you didn't want the moulding on the door opening, but I haven't experimented with that yet.

Has anyone heard from Eric lately? I just realized that I haven't seen any posts from him in quite a long time. I hope this isn't because of some bad news.

I think you should report that as a bug.

The problem with this form is we need to be able to add custom fields for all the items that Joe listed, and some that he didn't.

Nice colour though...

You should also avoid vinyl siding, as when exposed to higher temperatures, well you know the result...

My pleasure. By the way it would be a good idea to update your signature so that other members can see more about who you are, and what your hardware is like. Sometimes that can make a difference. To update your signature in Chief Architect, you need to access your account settings and update the signature field. You can do this by clicking on your username at the top right, navigating to Account Settings, and then finding the Signature option. Once there, you can modify or replace your existing signature. Here's a more detailed breakdown: Locate Account Settings: Click on your username or profile icon, typically found in the top right corner of the Chief Architect interface. Access Signature Settings: Within the account settings, find the section related to your signature or profile information. This might be labeled as "Signature" or "Profile". Update Signature: You can then edit or replace the current signature with your updated one.

Here is the solution to your problem!

From the attached PDF the slope on the open area is less than the slope of the main building.

This is the Chief Architect forum, and most of us do not have Home Designer Pro. That being said in CA you can adjust the terrain by opening the terrain specification dialog and then turning off automatic height and then entering a number that is the difference between the subfloor and the terrain.

You do want the roof planes to intersect right?

Just out of interest, I thought that trying out a couple of popular fonts would be instructional. So I did a sample in Arial, Helvetica, Chief Blueprint and Country Blueprint. Here is what they all looked like, same size and same conditions.

Hi Ed, Just another couple of notes. You might want to align your piers with the posts supporting the roof. You can do that a couple of ways, by offsetting the posts from the railing inwards, or by just adjusting the piers and posts under the deck.

That is the case with the first picture Joe.

This is the result of extending the landing 1/2 tread each way, and setting no transitions And this is transitions set but no smoothing. I really can't see a difference. And finally with smoothing. It would be a good feature to be able to do a smooth sweeping transition without a jump in the handrail.

The answer, as indicated from Chris is yes. Before that can be done, you need to consult with someone qualified in your area to visit the building, look at the current construction, and assess what it might take, and if it would be practical. No question about if it can technically be done, but will it be worth it? Maybe is the only answer that anyone could offer from the photos. I don't agree with asking a local contractor. Ask a qualified designer, architect or structural engineer.