Tongue and groove decking for roof and ceiling with beams 4'OC

[Elliot]

I am drawing plans to remodel a small country french home. the ceilings are all vaulted (about 4/12) , built with 4x6 beams at 48" OC. Then covered with tongue and groove 2x6 decking material.  Possibly plywood above that and then composition shingles.   I cannot find how to draw that in my plan  (in X13).  I have the building almost finished in X13 but I just drew it with conventional 2x6 framing members and drywall. I added pine t&g to the ceiling and added the beams already. But to get an accurate cross section I really need to get rid of those 2x6 joists and have the 2x6 T&G decking from beam to beam.  thanks for the help.

 

[Chopsaw]

Seems like all that you need to do is delete the 2x6's but maybe I am missing some of the other details ?  A few screen shots may help.

[HumbleChief]

7 hours ago, Elliot said:

I am drawing plans to remodel a small country french home. the ceilings are all vaulted (about 4/12) , built with 4x6 beams at 48" OC. Then covered with tongue and groove 2x6 decking material.  Possibly plywood above that and then composition shingles.   I cannot find how to draw that in my plan  (in X13).  I have the building almost finished in X13 but I just drew it with conventional 2x6 framing members and drywall. I added pine t&g to the ceiling and added the beams already. But to get an accurate cross section I really need to get rid of those 2x6 joists and have the 2x6 T&G decking from beam to beam.  thanks for the help.

 

You can frame your ceiling/roof structure with 4 x 6 Beams @ 48" O.C. spec'd in the 'Structure' of the roof then add the T & G in the 'Surface' under the shingles. Is that what you are looking for? How did you 'add' the beams? Manually? 

[Kbird1]

Larry's method should work perfectly , ie add the 2x6 to the Roofs ( *surface ) Layers not the Ceiling and re-frame it with 4x6 Rafters

 

M.

[HumbleChief]

28 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

Larry's method should work perfectly , ie add the 2x6 to the Roofs Layers not the Ceiling and re-frame it with 4x6 Rafters

 

M.

Mick, Do you add the 2 x 6 to the 'Surface' (as I show) or the 'Structure in the dbx?

 

Thanks

[Kbird1]

10 minutes ago, HumbleChief said:

Mick, Do you add the 2 x 6 to the 'Surface' (as I show) or the 'Structure in the dbx?

 

Thanks

 

I normally add it as the bottom layer of the Surface, (*edited above)  it's also how I do 3/4" T&G for exposed Rafters etc.

 

One would hope if exposed on the inside as the finished ceiling that there is also an Insulation Layer as well but on an older home there may not be?

 

Mick.

[Kbird1]

19 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

I normally add it as the bottom layer of the Surface, (*edited above)  it's also how I do 3/4" T&G for exposed Rafters etc.

 

One would hope if exposed on the inside as the finished ceiling that there is also an Insulation Layer as well but on an older home there may not be?

 

Mick.

 

Another thought....I haven't played with it in X13 Larry, but now that we can have two Framing Layers in X13 and thinking of the 2x6 as a "Purlin" , it maybe possible to put it in the Structural Layer too.

 

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5514/what-s-new-in-x13-building-construction.html?playlist=173

 

Mick

[Elliot]

thanks guys for all the help

I will work with those suggestions.  There is no insulation in the ceiling/roof structure at all. I am going to fir down between the beams with 2x3's at 24"oc which will make a space for adding lighting on the ceiling. they want to add about 28 LED ceiling lights.  Then spray foam between the 2x3's  with foam insulation 2' thick and cover it all with 1x6 T&G pine painted white. And then because the beams lose half their depth, we will make new beam wraps and have them all stained and finished a medium brown to contrast with the white ceiling.  I don't necessary need to draw all that detail in 3d but I want to try. I will at least show it in a cross section for the building department to review.  

[Kbird1]

7 minutes ago, Elliot said:

thanks guys for all the help

I will work with those suggestions.  There is no insulation in the ceiling/roof structure at all. I am going to fir down between the beams with 2x3's at 24"oc which will make a space for adding lighting on the ceiling. they want to add about 28 LED ceiling lights.  Then spray foam between the 2x3's  with foam insulation 2' thick and cover it all with 1x6 T&G pine painted white. And then because the beams lose half their depth, we will make new beam wraps and have them all stained and finished a medium brown to contrast with the white ceiling.  I don't necessary need to draw all that detail in 3d but I want to try. I will at least show it in a cross section for the building department to review.  

 

If you have the head room ? you might want to consider putting the 1x T&G on the 4x6 Rafters, which will allow more room for insulation (R-Value) and wiring etc and then use faux Beams to replicate the old 4x6 look.

 

M.

[Chopsaw]

13 minutes ago, Elliot said:

I will work with those suggestions.  There is no insulation in the ceiling/roof structure at all. I am going to fir down between the beams with 2x3's at 24"oc which will make a space for adding lighting on the ceiling. they want to add about 28 LED ceiling lights.  Then spray foam between the 2x3's  with foam insulation 2' thick and cover it all with 1x6 T&G pine painted white. And then because the beams lose half their depth, we will make new beam wraps and have them all stained and finished a medium brown to contrast with the white ceiling.  I don't necessary need to draw all that detail in 3d but I want to try. I will at least show it in a cross section for the building department to review.  

 

That really makes me cringe to go to all that trouble just to cover it all up. 

 

Is there a good reason not to add the insulation on top of the T&G ?  You could easily install all the lights and then put 2x6 on top and insulate.

[Kbird1]

7 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

 

That really makes me cringe to go to all that trouble just to cover it all up. 

 

Is there a good reason not to add the insulation on top of the T&G ?  You could easily install all the lights and then put 2x6 on top and insulate.

 

Cost of re-roofing would be my guess , which I assumed was not happening , but Code may require both to meet today's standards?

 

Mick.

[Elliot]

I made all the changes in the roof defaults.  I don' t know why I didn't look there before. Silly me.  But then Chief would only apply the changes if I told it to auto rebuild  the roof and it would only do that if I allowed it to delete any manually drawn roof planes. Well this house is so custom I had to create the roof one plane at a time so I certainly would not  allow it to delete all my  roof planes!  So I will just make the changes to each roof plane. I found the white tongue and groove roof layer material and set it to 1.5" thick as the bottom layer of the roof plane.  

[Elliot]

They just had a new roof put on not long ago.  I am going to submit with just adding 2" foam under the decking which certainly will not meet energy code. But here in Washington they don't always make me bring a remodel up to new construction energy codes. Just depends on the city I am working with.  

[Elliot]

the suggestion about just working under the 4x6 beams is a good thought.  But it is a tiny place with short ceilings.  and of course my clients are tall! 

[Kbird1]

4 minutes ago, Elliot said:

I made all the changes in the roof defaults.  I don' t know why I didn't look there before. Silly me.  But then Chief would only apply the changes if I told it to auto rebuild  the roof and it would only do that if I allowed it to delete any manually drawn roof planes. Well this house is so custom I had to create the roof one plane at a time so I certainly would not  allow it to delete all my  roof planes!  So I will just make the changes to each roof plane. I found the white tongue and groove roof layer material and set it to 1.5" thick as the bottom layer of the roof plane.  

 

You should/could of used Edit All Roof Planes to change and edit Existing Roof Planes...

 

Mick.