Rosco2017 Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Has anyone done any videos on roof framing? When it comes to framing, I'm pretty stupid! LOL I can't seem to build my roofs the way my boss builds them in the field. I've got a lot to learn when it comes to roofs and framing. My boss tells me when use 2 x 10's for our roofs but when we get to the eves, they put a "notch" in it, cutting it down to 3 1/2" from 9 1/4" (See picture attached of already framed house) also attached is a pic of what I'm trying to accomplish. I really hope I am making some sort of sense. I've been working with Chief for years, and never really had to use the framing tools, but my boss would like to see what a roof framing plan looks like from this program. (He's Amish, so he's easy to wow) Lol. Thanks in advance, hopefully I've made enough sense. If not, please let me know! Take care! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GerryT Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 You’re really talking about cutting the bird’s month and I’m afraid there is no answer but lots of opinions. The general rule of thumb is a minimum of 1 ½” of bearing as required by code and no more than ¼ depth cut in the rafter. (used to be 1/3). If you can’t achieve this at the slope you’re at, then you need to change the slope, raise the ridge or use connectors. Strangely ICC has no position on birds mouths – but most inspectors think they do. The end notch rule does not apply as this is not an end notch. But ¼ max is generally considered safe for overhangs less than 2 ft. The reason being that with a notch, the end load is redirected into the side wall and the unnotched portion left in the rafter is in tension not shear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 .......... But ¼ max is generally considered safe for overhangs less than 2 ft. The reason being that with a notch, the end load is redirected into the side wall and the unnotched portion left in the rafter is in tension not shear[/size][/font] Does this hold true for both 2x4 rafters as well as 2x12 rafters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 For me its better to lower the top plate to get a full bearing than to chop up the rafter, kind of what his picture show's when using a 2x10 or 12. I've been called on that before. 2x12 to a 2x4 eave is just too much mustard off the hotdog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey_martin Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Chief will do it for you. Just make sure you have the rafters set to 9.25" and the eave fascia/sub fascia set to 5.5" and Chief will take care of the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 yes, as long as soffits are checked, if you don't want soffits make them an air space material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GerryT Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Does this hold true for both 2x4 rafters as well as 2x12 rafters? Yes, But for a 2x4 @ 1/4 max, the mouth depth is only .875" Also Perry is correct. Most recommend that seats be full depth (3 1/2") rather than the minimum of 1 1/2". This is to resist lateral loads and the reason most Florida authorities require hurricane straps -- based on actual observations after the hurricanes there. Which brings up the point, if you use straps, you don't need a birds mouth. BTW -- it's also generally acknowledged that a full depth seat on a 2x4 is not practical.Should use connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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