Craftsman Column Options


ACADuser
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I'm in the process of creating some varied Craftsman Columns from symbols & wanted to be able to turn the lower base molding on/off.

I could create two column symbols but thought I also could use one column with a layer "Column Base Molding" & turn that on-off.

The base molding is a p-solid but I think I may need to create the symbol & then block the base separately.

Any thoughts?

 

 

CA Column.JPG

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52 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

Any thoughts?

Don't know how many variations you want but when you said different moldings my first thought was cabinets (but then I do think that way)

Downside is the the CAD detail would need clean up but changing moldings or even top sections could be done just dragging from the library.

 

I have a hunch that the top section made as a single (which I guess you already have) cabinet door with sizing restricted and offsets might suit. But this was done pretty down and dirty fast with the top faces as a door (needs some work but ..). After one was made the moldings were cake.  Different height tops would require different door symbols. If the upper door were a full truncated pyramid then the sides and backs of the cabinet would not match the front...just a thought.

Craftsman column.plan

4 columns.png

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7 hours ago, ACADuser said:

Any thoughts?

 

A Custom Countertop with a Custom CT Hole will make a Column Base "Sleeve" , being a Countertop allows you to add mouldings to the edge and it can be assigned it's own new layer for the now you see it, now you don't option.

 

As with all CA Workarounds there are a few quirks but it works.....would not work on a Symbol though, as the whole Column would be the Symbol and on 1 layer....

But the Base "Sleeve" could be Converted to a Symbol of it's Own , eg as Millwork and then put on a Custom Layer just for it....

 

21.thumb.JPG.9d72efb8cf771f917c4dc3d04c6bb138.JPG22.thumb.JPG.9270845cb314ce05b4b913038135a5b8.JPG23.thumb.JPG.76ed2ffddbeb9a35090e35bcd30e113f.JPG24.thumb.JPG.6191ce69cd424c0711b8caea8a4d44f5.JPG

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Cabinet, top is fixture interior symbol used as a shelf. Can change width and depth at will and can get some adjustment to overall height and/or base to top relationship before needing a symbol. Be a tad tricky making framed top but once done might not be all that bad to adjust. If you don't need the top section framed that can be a molding too (In which case the whole thing could be a molding pline.

Second try.png

Craftsman Column Shelf top.plan

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1 hour ago, ACADuser said:

Mark,

Looking at your first file, how did you tilt that panel?

I put a stretch plan in my columns which looks impossible on a cabinet assembly?

 

Column Symbol.plan

First one had cabinet door symbols-first converted to fixture then tilted then converted back. Yes you have to restrict the stretch plains when using doors (see the door symbol in the first plan)

That was partly why I came up with the second one. Take any of the top sections you have in you plan and convert just that to a fixture interior. Then use it as a shelf. That's how I did the second series. It's much easier to adjust sizes that way.

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On 11/13/2018 at 11:15 AM, ACADuser said:

I'm in the process of creating some varied Craftsman Columns from symbols & wanted to be able to turn the lower base molding on/off.

I could create two column symbols but thought I also could use one column with a layer "Column Base Molding" & turn that on-off.

The base molding is a p-solid but I think I may need to create the symbol & then block the base separately.

Any thoughts?

 

 

CA Column.JPG

 

Not to put too fine of point on it, but I dont think the way that drawing shows the framing of the column is the way someone would build it.  If you really are going to build it onsite and have it contain that inset panel, its best to incorporate it into the structure of the column - like below.  You can also buy pre-made fiberglass versions.

column_detail.png

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2 hours ago, johnny said:

If you really are going to build it onsite

I've had to build these and certainly agree that pre-made is the best solution. (was just handed a drawing showing the desired result) OTOH Even with in this digital age, I wouldn't want to try setting the compound angle needed for the cone sides on a contractors saw on a job site ...unless you really like caulk (I was doing them in clear cedar so not an option).

I took Alan's drawing to indicate it was slipping over masonary bearing column? Even with wood framing I'd be making the cone in the shop as a unit that fit over or at least completely pre fit. Final with biscuits and shims as needed in the field. FWIW I'd also suggest that the inside edge of frame have an angle to shed water more than the taper would allow.

 

Compound angle.png

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