Roofs That do not follow The Rules


ChiefGrego
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The Footprint of the floorplan is much longer than the width of the plan and I am trying to create what I think is a cross gable roof plan.  

see attached.  Using a saltbox style roof, I can come up with a very close rendering of what I want the front of the house to look like but am really struggling with extending the roof all the way to the back of the house in a way that seems workable for framing and also the overall look of the roof shape.  You will also notice the plate heights vary depending on the style..Also, moving walls just a bit to smooth out the roof or reduce the number of ridges.  

 

The question has to do with the planning of what needs to happen to directives in the roof planes and walls and the location of the walls as plate heights change.  

 

Currently for me it is trial and error with the auto roof tools and manual changes, pushing walls in and out and raising and lowering plates to see what the result is and hoping I eventually get the look I set out for.  There must be a better way to approach the roof than trial and error.  

Could not get the plan file to load

greghouse.jpg

berkshire floorplan.jpg

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So I could be explaining it wrong.  If you look at the front of the house rendering: note that the ridge is moving side to side.  (on another version the ridges goes all the way to gables at sides).  Looking at the floor plan the house design is much longer than the house plan is wide.  I Think Chief is going to run the main ridge with the longest run of the house.  (in this case front to back).  This is what I am talking about when I titled this "roofs that Don't follow the rules"  I called it salt box style because I set the back wall derivative's to a really low pitch and then built the roof at 14 pitch to move the main ridge toward the front of the house and running side to side.  I have been wrestling with this roof for much time and it has evolved since then.  The question has to do with my approach to the building a roof rather than just trial and error of raising plate heights or wall derivitives or moving walls in and out of position.  Not sure if that clears up the question

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Its all good.  If we get the terminology too screwed up communication just starts to break down.  Whether you used the term correctly or not, I see now why you described it a saltbox actually, and I didn't realize it before but Gene posted a picture of Eric's sample plan not your plan. 

 

On a side note, it would still really help to see the plan file. 

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28 minutes ago, ChiefGrego said:

The question has to do with my approach to the building a roof rather than just trial and error of raising plate heights or wall derivitives or moving walls in and out of position.  Not sure if that clears up the question

The question really had to do with approaching roof plans that may be a little more challenging than basic roofs in a more methodical way than the trial and error way I have worked with this one.  It has just taken me a really long time and was looking for a little insight.  Just wondering how others do it.  

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Its really a matter of personal preference and the look you're going for if you ask me.  I'm personally not a huge fan of hip roofs and tend to use gables a lot more often.  Having said that, I think with your example, with the least amount of tweaking, I would consider changing all your roof pitches to something more like a 10:12 with the exception of the front and back wall.  Maybe change those to something like a 7:12.

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Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but it's a method I've done on lots of houses in Texas.  I just lowered the roof pitch on the back half of the house to a 6:12 so I could have the main left-to-right ridge defined by 13:12 roof pitches, framed from an interior wall about halfway toward the back of the house.  That frameline is really arbitrary until you want to determine how high you want the highest ridge.  Pull that roof plane forward and it'll lower the ridge.  Push it back and it'll raise it.  I never use the automatic roof function so all of these planes were done manually.

 

When I saved the chief file I saw that you're on a version older than x10.  I went ahead and saved it to x10 but I've uploaded some screen shots too.

Roof Solution Front 02.jpg

Roof Solution Rear Overview.jpg

Roof Solution Roof Plan.jpg

Roof Solution Front 01.jpg

Trying to Zip plan.zip

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around here hip roofs cost a lot more than gable roofs (conventally built) b/c we need to build all or most hips using beams for the hips and valleys and also to brace where the hip meets the ridge with ceiling beams, then you need to bring that load down to the floor and a possible conc. pad or another floor beam to carry the loads. Trusses eliminate all that...

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I messed up the walls playing with the roof and will have to go back and clean them up again.... Thanks Solver, I had missed your earlier  post and really appreciate you breaking down the steps..   Also not opposed to lowering the pitch;and using more gables Alaska,  but was trying for a certain look. (call it "English, Maybe") .  The end result is suppose to flatten or lower the pitch at the overhangs (not sure the term) and add a round top dormer above the window at the front room Breaking up the hips. (AgChief)  (Still struggling with the auto dormers.) , Between the two, AgChiefs Manually built roof and Solvers Autobuilt, wondering  which works the best.. if either  

8 hours ago, AgChief said:

framed from an interior wall about halfway toward the back of the house.  That frameline is really arbitrary

Framing from an interior wall?....I did think about it and at one point changed an interior wall type to an exterior type hoping to trick Chief.  A

 

Thanks for all the effort. This really helped..gonna try again both manual and auto.........sounds like practice is key to quick...

 

The Goal....  make Texas Big Boxes unique 

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1 hour ago, ChiefGrego said:

Also not opposed to lowering the pitch;and using more gables Alaska,

 

You could just lower the pitches without adding any gables.  All I did after opening up your plan was changed the pitches to 10:12 via wall settings...except for that front and back wall which I changed to a 7:12 and the result was a perfectly acceptable hip roof in my opinion.  Would it be my ultimate choice?  I don’t know.  Only reason I mentioned gables was to suggest that when you’re dealing with what seems to be a very challenging roof, that you not limit yourself by trying to force a style that’s just not working very well.  Didn’t mean to say one was better than the other.  Just wanted to throw an alternative out there that might open up your options.   

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2 hours ago, solver said:

I thought about these two houses I'd modeled when first looking at yours. Both both had similar problems.

Really nice....Big box looks really good.  What is the pitch at two story? Eaves flatten out which was look I was goinf for for.  Can you tell me setting for pitch and location of pitch in relation to baseline? And the textures on the comp. shingle is smooth and doesn't look like the pattern repeats.  Not to start another topic but I'm having trouble with that and staring to wonder if it has to do with graphic card.  ( invidea x470)

Edited by ChiefGrego
wanted to add to the coment
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On 2/10/2018 at 9:50 AM, ChiefGrego said:

Alaska didn't attach his version

 

Didn't feel like I needed to.  I was just suggesting a possible starting point and it only takes a matter of seconds to test out the settings yourself.  Are you familiar with changing the roof pitch using your wall settings?

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