SHCanada2

I tried it on your plan. changed the reach and choose the right side. but it does have an errant "ridge line" but you can delete it. deleted:

I did this once. If I remember correctly, I set the storey pole to the other side of the building I wanted, so if there were two buildings and you wanted the left building, set the story pole to be on the left. I dont remember if the "highest ridge" worked or if I set that manually. And I probably had to set the reach

I have to manually move them to look like this

here too

I will say on more than one occasion Eric has created videos of how to fix my plan using my plan, but more importantly to me is the explanation he puts into them on why it's done a certain way. Once I know the why I can apply that to other problems

Sometimes CA will paint it drywall for you, erroneously. Not sure if is the cause here but I demonstrated it in a post last year

chatgpt?

I dont understand what you are looking for. 3E, 3H etc? 2 characters? what are the 3 character? What are the objection descriptions verbatim?

maybe post the plan

I was assuming CA is dropping the markers on the grid lines. @Luna18, Can you confirm, are you drawing the dim left to right, and is the dim line snapping to the grid and then dropping a marker when you let go? And I am assuming the p2p is not snapping to the cabinet at all, only to the grid?

turn off auto build anything, framing, roofs a search for "slow" in this forum yields: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00521/troubleshooting-slowness-in-chief-architect-plans.html

is that false room viewable from the inside entry? i.e. is the entry two storeys? If it was me, I'd have CA automatically put a shed roof on the right hand bumpout and then manually move it across. For the gable, you could maybe use a gable line, although I havent tried a gable line with a window in the gable to know that it works automatically without adding it after the fact you can have roof heights automatically raised and lowered by adjusting the heel height (for trussed roofs). Or manually raised and lowered using transform replicate->adjust in the z direction

My 17" Aorus w/3080 works well. No heat issues that caused any damage and I used it on a desk, plane, on my lap, on my bed. My wife's laptop broke so I'm giving her this one. I just ordered an Alienware 18" 4090 as it was $1200 off the price. If the new Aorus 17.3 was on sale I would buy it as the form factor is better than the Alienware. In my experience the fans only really start to get active when I have a rendering active, which most of the time is not the case. So to answer your question, a laptop is fine for my work.

possibilities I can think of: 1. when you switched to the new layer set, the save plan view was not actually saved. (click on the save button for the saved plan view) 2. in the layout box properties for the elevation layout box, it is not using the saved plan view which has the desired layer set. if you go in there, you can re-link The above assumes you are using saved plan views (SPVs) for your work flow and layouts

I went to pay for my cart at checkout last Thursday and the Scar 18 vanished, sold out . We are fortunate up here, the higher end laptops when they go on sale end up being about 25% less than the US, but its no use if they are sold out..

only 16" screen. I try and get all the real estate I can. My current is a 17" so I want to be that size or larger. HP omen was another one I was looking at although the sale it had a few weeks ago seems to be over

I keep reading about people having problems with fan whine. Do you have any? Its a toss up between this and the Alienware M18. The M18 with 64GB 4090, 4TB, is $1400 off with a discount. and the Scar 18 32GB, 2TB is $1000 off. So basically they are the same price. Although screen sizes are the same the M18 is 9 lbs vs 7lbs for the Scar. and the M18 is larger footprint

i was thinking of the same one but pondering maybe with the 4090 with 32GB ram. Let us know how it works out

When I get frustrated with stairs, I just do the math and set the elevations for each And if I don't need a cross section, sometimes I just draw a 45 degree cad line, but that is mostly for as builts

this is what I do, I then dimension to the CAD line from the house foundation, and then move the CAD lines to get the desired setback. I do not move the house. I personally am not that careful to draw the initial house inside the PLs, as I will move the PLs later anyway. In other words I will draw the house, I will draw the PLs on a seperate layer, and then I will move the PLs around to meet the setbacks. I do not draw them off to the side as they are on a separate layer But I can see the advantage of Option 1 for multiple houses in a subdivision, as you could easily move them all around. My two cents, option 2 for one house, option 1 for multiple houses

well now that you asked. time to delete the autodimension i do not want, 4 seconds time to change the window label layer to red and add *NEW, 15 seconds (I already have a layer called windows, label RED) time to manage two files, especially if I have to correct something, then I have to correct it in both files = headache. now using layers and defaults on the same file,( as Rene shows), and/or combined with a reference layer display, I think is a good solution. just have to invest the time to preset everything up, which is probably not that much by the looks of it But I'll be the first to admit, if doing an interior reno, where walls are being torn down and new ones created the reference display between two plans is the best way to go if one wants to show both sets of walls. I tend to overuse the "revision cloud" rather than keep two plan files. call me lazy

I do this type of thing a fair amount. I just autodemension and then delete the ones I dont want. I also change the color of the window label of the new windows to be red, and prepend the label with **NEW

I avoid setting the terrain perimeter to any specific length/width/shape, mostly because it impacts outside camera, but also limits ability to generate the terrain elevations in a way you may wish it to have because it would simply end at the property line. I will use CAD lines to delineate non physical things on the terrain, such as property lines, URWs, etc. or mostly I just superimpose the house onto the survey like the one you show

...and yes I get this all the time as well. When I first started using CA I think the first "suggestion" I made was to correct this behaviour

I tried out a soffit yesterday and it seemed to work (if square instead of angle works for you, but it was also between two walls, so only the front had to be covered.