SHCanada2

You cannot buy a used key. You can rent the software on a monthly basis if the trial limitations are ňot working for you. Although you might want to CA as I assume most here do not have a trial to verify the limitation with you

its the other bosch for comparison ...stil cheaper

I will draw the walls to form the rooms first roughly to where i want them and then use the interior dimension tool, as you can span it accross the whole building and it creates dimensions for each room. And then click on the walls, click on the dimension which was just created, and change the number to what i want

where is that. It looks like there is a gap and its not going underneath

none that I know off. Awhile ago, I put a request in the suggestions to have an object be able to be put on the plot plan and sit at the top of the terrain, and be able to show the elevation at that location in its label, and for the same object to show on the elevation as well.

I measured on your plot plan from the back of the house to your elevation point on the side, then on the elevation, I drew a dimension from left to right to where that was. Then I just dimensioned from the patio down using my pointer cross hairs(where I thought it would be on the terrain) and CA dropped a marker. I then changed the marker to a level line so it was obvious and moved it to the amount away from the wall (that I measured from the plan view) to the point where it intersected the terrain, and moved it up and down a little until it was in the centre. the other way to do it is to put in a small terrain object where your elevation point is, and ensure the layer is on in plan and elevation view

you dont have to as the subfloor above terrain can be adjusted to move everything up or down. .Becuase you are on a sloped lot, the subfloor above terrain would not be accurate all around the house. In my view, it is not really then required to be "accurate" as it will not be accurate in all places, as such you could just leave your terrain numbers as they are and adjust the terrain up and down to your liking In rereading your post, I'm not clear what the ultimate goal is here. You have the 6 elevation points along presumably the PL?, so those presumably cannot be changed. Are you going to then change the CA terrain around the house to accomodate the patio and driveway? If so you probably want to decide on what you want sloped and where before doing a lot of moving around. For instance on the sides, will they slope back to front only, or are they supposed to slope to the PL. If they are suppose to slope to the PL, then the terrain at your house will be higher than your measured elevation. If you try and set your terrain to match the front and rear of the house before doing that, then you will need to redo as you will be raising the grade at the house to slope away from it Terrain is more of an art than a science, in my view

the ridge of the garage is just above the bottom of the second storey window. Adjust the garage untilk that matches

note your current side elevation shows the rear patio slab floating above the terrain. Personally I would use a terrain region to flatten that area out, if you are permitted to change the grade

you have a terrain point midway on the left at -151 for a reference point I took a measurement from that to the patio slab which is at -14in (aboslute elevation)to the top, or put another way, its top is 14" below the top of your subfloor. My measurement from top of slab to roughly where that elevation point is (I took a cross section at the elevation point marker): is about 109 inches. the elevation point should then be 40+14+109, 163, but its only 151..interesting you can also double check the elevation of that point(below) by looking at the toolbar. Mine shows z at -123, which would be 109+14 I did switch the terrain to skirt of 2" and follows terrain to take these measurents. I never use the Flat skirt personnally That said, Essentially your terrain point is putting the terrain at -151" below the terrain reference point. And because your intended main floor to terrain is less that 151 you have to raise the terrain above the main floor (which would be a negative number for the "subfloor height above terrain")) A question would be, where does the -151 for the terrain point come from and what is it's reference, sea level? something else?

i usually draw over, especially for something as simple as these. But you could try the CA CAD to walls function. It is detailed in help

I find if a 3D camera is open in a tab, that CA will slow down, even if you are not on that 3D camera tab,

or lock the soffit layer

if you did what DBcooper suggested and it is still slow, I could check on my laptop to see if I get the same issue

I'm not at my CA computer, but I provide a blanket caveat, because the time of the plans is not necessarily the time of the permit. Where I do specify a particular code (energy compliance), I list out the sections, but now that you mention it, I should qualify it as which edition/year. It gets a little tricky sometimes because the govt will issue clarification bulletins post the issuance or the local jurisdiction will issue variances. In the variance case, I will stipulate the variance order #, but not always, if it is so widespread that everyone knows. ALL CONSTRUCTION MUST COMPLY WITH NATIONAL BUILDING CODE (ALBERTA EDITION) & CANADIAN ELECTRICAL CODE(CEC) IN EFFECT AT TIME OF PERMIT THE FOLLOWING ARE NOT EXHAUSTIVE, BUT ARE PROVIDED FOR CONVENIENCE NBC ALBERTA (2023) Division B, 9.9.4.2. Fire Separations for Exits - 2) Where an exit is located in a house with a secondary suite including their common spaces, the exit shall be protected by a continuous smoke-tight barrier of not less than 12.7 mm thick gypsum board installed on a) both sides of walls separating the exit from the remainder of the building, and b) the underside of floor-ceiling framing separating the exit from the remainder of the building. (See Sentence 9.10.9.3.(2) for closures) Division B, 9.9.10.1. Bedroom windows shall provide a minimum unobstructed opening of 0.35 sq. m. (3.77 sq. ft.) with no dimension less than 380mm (15"). Window shall be openable from the inside without the use of keys, tools or special knowledge and without the removal of sashes or hardware and maintain the required opening during an emergency without the need for additional support. Division B, 9.10.8.3. Fire-Resistance Ratings for Walls, Columns and Arches Light-frame walls, columns, arches and beams as well as loadbearing steel elements that support floors between dwelling units in a house with a secondary suite including their common spaces shall be protected by not less than 12.7 mm thick gypsum board. Division B, 9.10.9.3.(2) Openings to be Protected with Closures - Doors in smoke-tight barriers shall a) be solid-core, wood doors at least 45 mm thick, and b) have a self-closing device. Division B, 9.10.9.14. Walls and floor-ceiling framing in a house with a secondary suite that separate dwelling units from each other or dwelling units from ancillary spaces and common spaces to be protected by a continuous smoke-tight barrier of not less than 12.7 mm thick gypsum board installed on a) both sides of walls, and b) the underside of floor-ceiling framing. Division B, 9.10.10.4. Location of Fuel-Fired Appliances - 2) Except as required in the appliance installation standards referenced in Sentences 6.2.1.4.(1), 9.33.5.2.(1) and 9.33.5.3.(1), fuel-fired space-heating appliances, space-cooling appliances, service water heaters and laundry appliances need not be separated from the remainder of the building as required in Sentence (1), b) where the appliances i) serve a house with a secondary suite including their common spaces, and ii) are located in a service room where both sides of any wall assemblies and the underside of any floor-ceiling framing separating this room from both dwelling units or their common spaces are protected by a continuous smoke-tight barrier consisting of not less than 12.7 mm thick gypsum board. Division B, 9.10.19.1. Required Smoke Alarms - 1) Smoke alarms conforming to CAN/ULC-S531, 'Smoke-Alarms,' shall be installed in c) ancillary spaces and common spaces not in dwelling units in a house with a secondary suite. Division B, 9.11.1.1. (2) Where a house contains a secondary suite, each dwelling unit shall be separated from every other space in the house in which noise may be transmitted by a) construction conforming to this article b) construction providing an STC rating of not less than 43, or c) a separating assembly and adjoining constructions, which together provide an ASTC rating of not less than 40. Division B, 9.32.3.9.(7) Carbon Monoxide Alarms - Where CO alarms are installed in a house with a secondary suite including their common and service spaces, the CO alarms shall be wired so that the activation of any one CO alarm causes all CO alarms within the house with a secondary suite including their common spaces to sound. Division B, 9.33.1.1.(3) Air duct distribution systems serving one of the dwelling units in a house with a secondary suite shall not be directly interconnected with other parts of the house. Division C, 2.2.10.9. Responsibility for Compliance 1) Neither the issuance of a permit nor inspections made by the authority having jurisdiction shall in any way relieve the owner of a building from full responsibility for carrying out the construction or having the construction carried out in accordance with the requirements of the Safety Codes Act and its Regulations, this Code, or the permit, including compliance with any special conditions required by the authority having jurisdiction.

Canada has its own building code with no references to any other building code And then some provinces have their own version of that building code. It comes out every 5? years. And there is the National electrical code, and national plumbing code, and fire code

you can format the numbers to include units in the schedule dbx. I played around with different fonts until I found one that I thought showed "good", which was Arial, I also keep everything uppercase, it looks better IMHO

use a style pallet in room/object/plan mode from plan or camera view

Please move this to Q&A. Two ways I do it. If it is just a couple walls, I just use a hatched polyline that represents the wall to be demolioshed. Sophisticated way. Once you draw the existing plan, save it, then duplicate it(proposed plan). Then you create a reference view that shows both plans. you can then create something like this: CA has some videos on it: Using the Reference Display - Video | Chief Architect you can also search the forum for reference display

Your bottom chord is lower than the top plate as you can see the truss being cut by the top plate. Maybe need to rebuild the framing to rebuild the truss. I see this frequently if I am fiddling with roof heights

Hmmm, i assumevyou also refreshed the layout box. You might need to post the plan and layout

Did you save the saved plan view?

That said, it may be helpful to start with something. I believe renerabbit alaskanson and joecarrick sell templates

my guess is the exterior front steps should only be two risers or they are adjusting the grade next to the steps. This would give you enough to get into the garage, but then that would screw up the front windows (they would need window wells). you might want to drive by and see it or look on google streetview. I also notice the garage floor looks like it is a couple inches above the bottom of the front stairs ...or they have 3 risers in the garage and they have to make sure not to drive into it Your "porch room" is set to -53" absolute floor elevation. Why is it a porch room, as it is inside the house? It should not be a porch room second, it shows 4 risers into the main house rooms. This would imply a max of 4*7-7/8 change in floor elevation. Where does -53 come from? third your garage floor is at -26 1/8" which is above -53". effectively making your garage floor above your porch room floor If it was me I'd put the garage at -3*7.5 which is -22.5 less the door rise, say 3", which would put the garage at -25.5 relative to the entry. Given the entry(porch room) is 4 risers less than the main floor, I would put your "porch room" at - 4*7.5 which is -30". Add that to the garage puts the garage floor at -30+-25.5, which is -55.5. I would then adjust the roof on the garage to match the height of the roof on the elevation ...you could also scale the elevations and measure the front risers

did you "rebuild terrain"?