SHCanada2

that does not match the uploaded pdf earlier which shows: are we talking the same thing here?

sorry I cannot view a heic file. What is your proposed cladding for the ADU, and what is the thickness?

something is missing for information. For the ADU, using the measurements on the plan, which look to go to the framing, it is 722 sq ft. his plan says 750. The perimeter is 137 ft, so the ft "missing around the permiter" is 750-722=28 sq ft divided by 137 ft, which is 0.2ft or 2.4" all the way around. maybe that is the cladding and sheathing, but if it is I'm not sure what it would be, you would have to see the rest of the plans

you cant, you need two(or 4 depending on how finicky one is. I and others have put in a suggestion to CA to be able to rotate cameras. I will admit I only have two, and sometimes I will recreate, because I prefer a certain direction. So it is a bit of a "I should update my template" thought in my mind, but then forget to do it For instance my kitchen and bath view has this for kitchens. I then just pick the 2 or 3 (if there is an island) that directionally work. IF I'm lucky my template layout (which is already connected to two of them) works, if not I have to relink the callout to the one that applies: my plot plan view has fences, construction lines which act as property lines so they show up in elevation, Two elevation regions for a typical front to back slope. You can see all the cross sections below I use a thin solid to get a cleaner looking grade line, the other thin solid is there to show max bylaw height. so yeah, a lot of things going on. If i dont need them, I just move them off the page, although the sections are off the page to begin with If I was smarter I suppose I might color the cross sections based on what they are, as the PIA is opening the object to check the name to see what it is. Although I keep the stair section narrower so I know that is the one

...I have multiple cross sections in my template plan, one for stairs, one for garage, a few for kitchen... so I am not changing the layerset and back clip all the time you may be able to do the same thing with wall elevations, and/or use the "clip to room" feature of a section (not sure if you get the same result as wall elevation)

if its consistently your antivirus, you may wish to exclude it scanning CA directories and see if that helps

this should be posted in the Q&A

roofr.com I think does it

what is quite interesting is it says it takes a measurement across the room as well, and can see if it is a cabinet or washer or... so it must be sanity checking its own wall measurements with this across the room measurement. In theory I would think that would improve the whole stitching problem

ironically, their demo picture shows the person measuring the wall between 2 cabinets: but their how it works video says it needs to see the wall corners. never trust marketing!

locked layer maybe. i'd select the all layers on layerset and then see if you can delete them. another possibility is a referenced layerset

and you know its southern Alberta circa 1990 to 2010 houses when the only trees you see in a suburb are columnar aspens..

interesting how it first put the front yard tree behind the house. And it almost got the fence house connection right, pretty close. although it looks like the house is bigger that it was at the peak in the original. curious, can you tell it to make it smaller maintaining the aspect ratio?

There has been a lot of discussion on this, and I think the end result is as you do it above (make copies and keep log of changes) is the best way

The core catalog E21 shows proud for some reason I think I either fixed this before(as the "correct" E21 door is in my user catalog, shows as E21A int he video ). I do not see a setting, and simply changing to the E21 Door, you can see in the preview that it pops out. Is there a setting I am missing. They both show as Reccessed->Sheathing layer: 25.04.2026_22.31.46_REC.mp4

I'm not suggesting you are...just trying to find out the differences that make an impact. If you saw some worthwhile differences, that is good enough for me to give it a whirl

sure I'll try it out on my brother's. send me the beta link. At a few hundred dollars a month, one question I would have is what to I get better than a generic AI, standardized forms maybe?

you might want to try the chatroom forum. navigate first to "home" at the top left

i was just about going to ask if I get a money back guarantee, and then I saw this: Always cross-reference the output with the official municipal code for permit submissions. The analysis is designed to accelerate your research, not replace the final legal review. ...never heard of a "legal review", but regardless what it looks like is a AI tool that summarizes the zoning bylaws for a specific zone. My brother just tried a different AI on the city's feedback on his proposal, and I would say it gave a decent start, but certainly not anything "intelligent". I.e. the City has a statutory document that states that for lots that are more than 20% slope, it needs geotechnical, but he AI is not intelligent enough to figure out from the survey what the lot slope is to see if the rule applies

thats kind of why I use it, once I have the roofs correct, I just go around and raise or lower them using TNR for some finer adjustments like trying to avoid another roof, but I do set the heel correct for the majority of the roofs first in the build roof dbx, so there is less chance I have to change it ...if I know the heel height to begin with

raising the roof using the TNR to a 12" heel requires one to do the math of 12" minus existing heel height, and then that number is put into TNR, so I think doing it the other way (through defaults or the build roof dbx) is simpler

This has the limitation of only one heel height globally. If for instance one is doing an addition, and the customer wants a heel height of 12" for the addition, but the house only has 4" heel height, you will have to adjust either one or the other manually..or perhaps although I have not tried, build some, mark them as edited, then build some more with a different heel height. I find it simpler just to set the heel height for the most roof planes that have the same heel, and then TNR the others to the desired heel height, The other example is an unheated attached garage. It does not need the heel height for the insulation required here for the living space, and IMHO, a garage starts to look odd with high heel heights. As such I always set the garage to a different heel...manually

if it is an auto generated roof, and you specified heel height at 12", it should build them like that, although I typically have to build all framing to show that, as I have auto build shutoff. If you have one or more manual roof planes, when you build the roof from the build roof dialog, make sure the check box is off for the edited and manual. CA will build an auto roof over a manual roof, so you may have two roofs in the same(x,y plane) location. You will then need to delete the auto roof. To adjust the manual roof planes, as johnny says select the roof planes and use the TNR box to alter in the Z direction

the other thing I do is if you are only moving/removing an interior wall or two, I will use plines for these walls instead of walls, then turn the layer on and off. but that doesnt work so well if there is currently a door in the wall

multiple files is best IMHO. layersets method falls apart as soon as there are walls close together. you can try using no room definition walls if you want to give it a go. I do the as built, and then create copy in the project browser, and then rename that copy as my as built.