SHCanada2

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Everything posted by SHCanada2

  1. There looks to be 4 different "object" "endpoint" snap points withing a 18" roof eave. Any idea what they are? Is it snapping to things that are not actually showing like the fascia board. For testing, "enpoints" is the only object snap I enabled. Its a lot worse if I turn them all on (although it is the same 4 points) 27.10.2024_20.10.57_REC.mp4 Thanks
  2. I did not try that, I thought about it, but thought that was similar to how I first did it (broke the wall and set it to a gable, then adjusted the roof planes pitch and eave down). But in thinking about it some more, the dormer does have an advantage in this regard, in that I could just type the values (width, pitch, eave length) into the DBX, and see where it got me where the breaking of the wall, I only got to set it to the gable). There is something a little funny. if the dormer wall height is 10" it looks like: if I put it to 6" (lowest allowable) to tray and get it to the end of the top plate it looks like: I then alter the planes to get: but when I alter the roof plains manually to get rid of the eave across the bottom the wall is missing: then I bring the wall down to cover and the open space, and then try and get rid of those two little ends and then it all goes to He double hockey sticks. ...maybe the first way was quicker...or use the dormer to find the distances, then go back to breaking the wall and setting it to a gable
  3. welll, it certainly is interesting. I can set the eave to like 80" to get it to go down past the 2nd story top plate but that cuts into the room looks like the best i can get is:
  4. except i want the opposite, only show the exterior walls for the plot plan (I dont like the make polyline option as it is not dynamic) me thinks then I will need to leave the exterior wall as default layer and change interior and all other walls to their own layer. I think that will work
  5. hmm, not a bad idea as i can move it around and leave the autobuild on. I'll give it a whirl
  6. I do not see this setting in the defaults or in the wall type. how do you get to it:
  7. The title should read NOT on attic layer This looks to happen if one changes the default exterior wall layer... maybe it is normal. Below is the second story, to the left is gable attic walls for the garage. they are autogenerated. but why are they on layer Walls normal? if I open up the attic wall, it shows as non default: but where is that actually set as I do not see it available in the wall defaults: I do have it set as my own layer (non default) for an exterior wall in defaults: if I change this default to check the default, which is walls, normal, and redraw the garage wall, the newly auto generated attic wall is now on the attic wall layer. So is chief then doing a "when build attic wall, if default wall layer is "walls, normal" then set new attic wall to layer "walls, Attic" otherwise build attic wall with layer set in exterior wall defaults? seems odd, I must be missing something. I suppose I could change the wall layer after it is built, but then that shuts off the auto build, which I do not want to do.
  8. I'm trying to recreate this 14:12 roof. I have the floor plans but not the elevations. Can it be done auto some how? In this case I broke the upper floor wall at points where I guessed it might instersect the top of the second storey wall, then edited (including the pitch) and extended the 2 gable roof planes down past the second storey walls to the main storey. But it was a bunch of trial and error rebuilding the roof planes( so I did not have to manually edit the roof planes) and there is no place to actually put the 14:12 pitch, so I had to edit the two gable roof planes after each rebuild anyway. Anyway, is there a suggestion on how to do this better. The only thing I thought is to draw 14:12 cad lines on the elevation (as the porch roof and upper roof are already built), then measure from the outside wall to where it intersect with the top of the second storey wall. The pother thing I thought to do because there was no where to specify the 14:12 pitch, was to change the default roof build to 14:12, and go set all the walls to the other pitch (7:12) except porch (~4:12) any better ideas?
  9. interesting, are you looking for in person training, or instructor led virtual training? I would have thought the latter would be available to you You could also check the "offering services" forum group
  10. you may want to enquire with training@chiefarchitect.com
  11. and rene showed a video on the semi autonomous way last month using baseline polyline. Auto built can be left on, and you only have to move the polyline instead of editing the roof plane. Attached is shown for this one where I took Gene's plan, turned on auto rebuild and built the roof planes (in order to delete the edited planes), then created a baseline polyline, then edited the two segments. CA then builds the roof to match 18.10.2024_21.59.01_REC.mp4
  12. and then if you do it the other way, where you specify 54" in the build roof dialog, it works for those walls but not two others ...go figure
  13. change the eave to 54" and build roof with same height eaves: autobuilt: but it wont work on the right wall. it will only work to 50". I've seen this before, not sure why. 50" 54" its like oh so close..but just will not do it
  14. did your system auto update the video card driver?
  15. its too bad the wall coverings one can assign in the room dbx do not reduce its area with windows and doors (I tested it, it does not). Then it would be very easy... in my test room of 10'x6' it just always sits at 284 sq ft regardless of doors added to the wall room object properties: wall_coverings --------------------------------------- size = 1 --------------------------------------------------------------- Collection [0] ---------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- NVPublisher area ----------------------------------------- 284.385601 sq ft ------------------------------------------------------- Measurement
  16. happy thanksgiving, we had the classic turkey and pumpkin pie yesterday. I noticed the same thing about the thermal area...only good for exterior walls. I'll take a closer look, I did notice the wall areas are backwards between the rooms for the common wall spanning 2 rooms. i.e, W01 and W06 should have more wall area for the bedroom, where above you have them having more area for the bath/closet. And I do not see how you are assigning only one side of the wall to the room (the category/subcategory above). but I will dive into it some more. I see where you do it now....typing in the wall label differently for each one of the drywall in each unique wall. All in all a very creative method. ...a lot of re-work though if one had to change walls around later.
  17. well, I've quit trying and left it as wall area without reducing for openings, and put it in a schedule. Interesting that the room properties can actually have two different ceiling heights, but if one uses the ceiling elevation, there is only one, so I used that one. although the stairwell is probably not correct
  18. so if I change drywall from count to linear, it gives me the surface areas of the walls, excluding doors and windows, so that seems to work. Its just not by room as it is for both sides of the wall and one side of a wall could go across multiple rooms. One could break it up, but it still has it as both sides of a wall I do not see a way to get it by room for the ML. Even if one creates material list by room, it only gives you the drywall for the ceiling, not the walls. According to the doc, anything that has its center in the room will be counted, so one could I suppose add an object and then do the math, or add crown molding and use it to do the math. looks like too much work.
  19. your count 2 is smaller because it looks to have the area reduced by the window size. Did you then just change the formula to deduct the manually entered window area on that wall, for each wall? Or put another way, was it all manual, or if you changed a window size did it just then calculate correctly without having to do anything?
  20. If this is for limiting distances and unprotected openings, the wall does not include the rim joist, and does not delineate below grade. As such I use a pline on the elevation, manually drawn. and then I have a macro which adds up the windows, which is rather convoluted. If CA would give us the ability to have a macro use a schedule total, it would be a lot simpler. I put in a suggestion a few months back But thanks for what you have done so far, I will take a look. I have not spent much time in material lists. I just ran one on a project I just did and trying to figure out what the numbers and if they add up. and if it is smart enough to know for instance that 108 drywall is for a 109.125 room, without adding additional sheets for the 1.125" extra inch. (and I can hear the comments already, drywallers use 54" drywall by 8',9' 10',12', and they optimize for orientation/placement....this is mostly for basements where you cannot get those sizes down the stairs. plus I want to see what the calculation accounts for)
  21. @ValleyGuy What did you do to achieve this second count column result? I am actually looking to see if I can get it (wall surface area without opening area) into a schedule for the room
  22. @AdrienS_FX Did you log this to CA, and if so did they acknowledge it as a bug?
  23. did you check out the CA videos on remodelling: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/#playlist-120
  24. I tried cubicasa, as it works with Android or IOS. I assume it is more of a photgrammery engine than lidar as it can be used with android or maybe it uses both if they are available. Anyway, it took me two tries on my test house. The first try it told me it didnt work at the end of scanning so that was good. The second try worked pretty good. I got back the 2d floor plan within 24 hours, most rooms were accurate to a few inches although one 5' hallway, they came up with 4'6. it took about 10 minutes to walk the 3 levels scanning At only $10 for a 3 level house, I cannot complain, and since I do the basement accurately by laser and match it to the survey, this gives me an accurate enough plan for the top two floors. Best bang for the buck I think