SHCanada2

I think it depends on what the customer wants. I use a camera on layout, which means I can make changes or different versions of plans without having to do anything. If I had to constantly make screenshots or image files and run them through a 3rd party app, it would make me go a little crazy. I really only adjust backdrop intensity, sun intensity, sun location, manual exposure and brightness. And I will add in or move pot lights. But interior rendering is not my business, plans are my business, and the rendering, even if it is basic, sets me apart. So if one is providing rendering for more of a "this is what that plan will look like" reason, my thoughts are it does quite well with just those 5 adjustments. The one I did a couple weeks ago is below: sure the bookcase is not filled and there are no basket of apples on the coffee table, but it conveys the space, furniture placement, colors.

easiest is to change your exposure to manual and adjust it, adjusting brightness can also help

I'm not at my CA computer, but I assume you have terrain regions on that side as it is sloping down? looks like you need to adjust it to be next to the building.

I've seen them through the roof plane in 3D if the layer is on

I put in a suggestion awhile ago. Please also put one in to up the support

yes that worked, thanks Robert

The roof plane edge will not follow the dimension I give it, it goes back to either what looks like the exterior of the cladding (the walls have 1" exterior foam) or it allow me to move the roof plane into the attcic. The problem is I have to specify to the stud for the truss guys. So I created a little jog on the eave. IS there a trick here? Even if I could move the roof plane to the stud, then the exterior render shows the framing as the roof then cuts the siding and 1" insulation off the elevation view. Even if I use the cntrl key it will not place the edge at 18". maybe because there is an attic wall there? 23.10.2025_00.04.13_REC.mp4

never tried that

exactly. I pick which one to use depending on it it matters if there is still a "wall" there or not. For the wall hatching tool, if you want only part of the wall, you have to break up the wall, just as aa FYI

I remove the wall or portion thereof if I am going to render(sometimes it is just a wall in a closet or bathroom or in a hall, which may not get rendered, so the wall does not need actually be removed), and just leave the hatched polyline on the plan view. I dont do as built renders, only proposed. Below is walls cut back, and pline left in its place, as there were renders showing the dining from the kitchen

for complicated ones, that is what I do. For just removing a wall, I hatch a polyline over the wall and note it as being removed

You cannot buy a used key. You can rent the software on a monthly basis if the trial limitations are ňot working for you. Although you might want to CA as I assume most here do not have a trial to verify the limitation with you

its the other bosch for comparison ...stil cheaper

I will draw the walls to form the rooms first roughly to where i want them and then use the interior dimension tool, as you can span it accross the whole building and it creates dimensions for each room. And then click on the walls, click on the dimension which was just created, and change the number to what i want

where is that. It looks like there is a gap and its not going underneath

none that I know off. Awhile ago, I put a request in the suggestions to have an object be able to be put on the plot plan and sit at the top of the terrain, and be able to show the elevation at that location in its label, and for the same object to show on the elevation as well.

I measured on your plot plan from the back of the house to your elevation point on the side, then on the elevation, I drew a dimension from left to right to where that was. Then I just dimensioned from the patio down using my pointer cross hairs(where I thought it would be on the terrain) and CA dropped a marker. I then changed the marker to a level line so it was obvious and moved it to the amount away from the wall (that I measured from the plan view) to the point where it intersected the terrain, and moved it up and down a little until it was in the centre. the other way to do it is to put in a small terrain object where your elevation point is, and ensure the layer is on in plan and elevation view

you dont have to as the subfloor above terrain can be adjusted to move everything up or down. .Becuase you are on a sloped lot, the subfloor above terrain would not be accurate all around the house. In my view, it is not really then required to be "accurate" as it will not be accurate in all places, as such you could just leave your terrain numbers as they are and adjust the terrain up and down to your liking In rereading your post, I'm not clear what the ultimate goal is here. You have the 6 elevation points along presumably the PL?, so those presumably cannot be changed. Are you going to then change the CA terrain around the house to accomodate the patio and driveway? If so you probably want to decide on what you want sloped and where before doing a lot of moving around. For instance on the sides, will they slope back to front only, or are they supposed to slope to the PL. If they are suppose to slope to the PL, then the terrain at your house will be higher than your measured elevation. If you try and set your terrain to match the front and rear of the house before doing that, then you will need to redo as you will be raising the grade at the house to slope away from it Terrain is more of an art than a science, in my view

the ridge of the garage is just above the bottom of the second storey window. Adjust the garage untilk that matches

note your current side elevation shows the rear patio slab floating above the terrain. Personally I would use a terrain region to flatten that area out, if you are permitted to change the grade

you have a terrain point midway on the left at -151 for a reference point I took a measurement from that to the patio slab which is at -14in (aboslute elevation)to the top, or put another way, its top is 14" below the top of your subfloor. My measurement from top of slab to roughly where that elevation point is (I took a cross section at the elevation point marker): is about 109 inches. the elevation point should then be 40+14+109, 163, but its only 151..interesting you can also double check the elevation of that point(below) by looking at the toolbar. Mine shows z at -123, which would be 109+14 I did switch the terrain to skirt of 2" and follows terrain to take these measurents. I never use the Flat skirt personnally That said, Essentially your terrain point is putting the terrain at -151" below the terrain reference point. And because your intended main floor to terrain is less that 151 you have to raise the terrain above the main floor (which would be a negative number for the "subfloor height above terrain")) A question would be, where does the -151 for the terrain point come from and what is it's reference, sea level? something else?

i usually draw over, especially for something as simple as these. But you could try the CA CAD to walls function. It is detailed in help

I find if a 3D camera is open in a tab, that CA will slow down, even if you are not on that 3D camera tab,

or lock the soffit layer

if you did what DBcooper suggested and it is still slow, I could check on my laptop to see if I get the same issue