GeneDavis

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Posts posted by GeneDavis

  1. If you want the shed roof to intersect the higher roof halfway up, consider using CAD in a section view and determining what pitch that might be.  Might save you diddling with it after if you don't like the way a 2-pitch porch roof looks.  Be sure to use a baseline height (i.e. H.A.P. : height above plate) that is in line with the rafters needed for the span and load.

     

    There is absolutely no reason to go with whole numbers for roof pitches, other than they are easier to type into a dialog box.  If 2 7/8 in 12 looks exactly right, then that is what it should be.  No framer or truss plant engineer is gonna blink at your fractional pitch, no matter what it is.

    • Like 1
  2. @Flash691 here you go.  I added a solid about the size of a sheet of paper, inside the glass box, directly in front of the planview right light source spec'd as a spot.  It is on its own layer and can be turned off or on as desired.  My renders posted upthread were done before I added the paper sheet, so turn off that layer to try renders to see if you get what I got.

    Light box house.plan

  3. As a one-time trim carpenter, I recall the door casing thing, which is to order all 14s, not 16s.  Cuts the waste way down when cutting all those jamb-side door casings, of which every single interior door gets four.

     

    Which is why I suggested what might work best is a setup for the items I think the OP is focused on, be handled with the same code and logic we now have for framing members.

    • Like 1
  4. @Flash691 all the lights are on in all the renderings I posted.

     

    For my particular model, and the way I want the lighting to appear, CPU ray tracing gives me OK results, while I am unable to achieve any acceptable results using real time RT.

     

    Here is a pretty good result, with the doors glazed in a material designated "glass standard."  Rendered using CPU RT, the light strips inside the cabs all have light spacings of 1" (as will the stick-on LED tape that will be used), and each light emits at 25 lumens.  I cut the output of the rope lights (Chief's at bulb spacing 3") under the wall cabs from 200 lumens each to 100, and I think the backsplash and countertop look more realistic with the lower setting.

     

    870209879_Untitled4.thumb.jpg.169bc3a3e1bd96106302a06b8f2c6b60.jpg

     

    With all light settings same, here is what RTRT produces.  Yuk!

     

    871037364_Untitled5.thumb.jpg.b72562f82f749a4959a67c354a6193b0.jpg

     

    I wanted to study this situation of light sources inside cabinets behind glazed doors, so I built a one room house and a 30" cube, the cube sheeted in 1/8" thick "glass standard" material, raised the cube off the floor 25", and put two light sources inside the cube.  One light is a point, the other a spot.  Both are set to 1200 lumens, the spot has a beamspread ("cutoff angle") of 140 degrees and a falloff ("dropoff") rate of 15 percent.  Here is a scene done with RTRT.

     

    2128760519_Untitled3.thumb.jpg.85658cc2ef98637c095da2a9db76ad9b.jpg

     

    As is seen, the light from both the spot and the point get through the glass walls of the cube.

     

    Here is the scene using a few passes of CPU RT.  I regret not painting all wall and ceiling surfaces with the same material, maybe a matte gray, just a little gloss, but it is pretty obvious the point light is getting through in all six planes of cube to illuminate the room and its surfaces.  It's interesting how the cube form with sheet glass on each face affects the projected light.  Look at the floor.

     

    266327796_Untitled2.thumb.jpg.899dbd6e0398e58b1d02179371e0c038.jpg

     

    So in conclusion, at least for me, it seems that one has to choose to work with whichever rendering technique, RTRT or CPU RT, produces the better realism for your particular model.

     

     

     

     

  5. Rene Rabbit did a helpful video on this.  I watched it to prep for doing it in a kitchen for a client.  I want to show them the option for doing glass doors and inside-cab LED strip lights:  

     

     

    So I do the same thing for a pair of wall cabinets, or try to do the same thing, and get not-so-good results.  Both cabinets have material "Glass, standard" for the doors and the single shelf that aligns to the horizontal door muntin.  The cab on my R has four martini glasses, material "glass, standard" from one of Chief's bonus libraries.

     

    There is another difference.  I did my light strips from scratch, making them from solids 1/16" thick x 3/8" wide x length.  Rene starts with Chief's rope light (which is also a thin flat strip and not a tube), so I think the light fixtures are similar enough.  Mine are outfitted with spot lights 1" apart.  Rene does 3" spacing which seems to be what Chief's OOB rope light is.

     

    My problem is with the door (and maybe shelf) glass material.  Here is the scene in standard camera render.  This and all that follow have the night setting for outdoor lighting.  No backdrop.

     

    1669548460_Standardcameraviewnightsun1inchspacingspots800lumens.thumb.jpg.4dce34af0362f2efa6eb5897e67cbdf3.jpg

     

    I should explain another detail as re lighting.  The cab on R has martini glasses in lower cab and up on the mid-shelf.  Lighting in-cab in both is the vertical strips as Rene does in his video.  The L cabinet (no glasses inside) has an additional light strip across the top.  Here is the scene using CPU RT rendering.  All lights are set to 1200 lumens, just as Mr R did, but remember his are at 3", mine at 1".  Too much lighting as seen here.

     

    798040947_CPURT5passesnightsun1inchspacingspots800lumens.thumb.jpg.c13efaa2ea8803452b23b11d60ff7086.jpg

     

    And too much lighting is generating the bleeding.  I think I can fix that by dimming the strips and adding a little more interior lighting brightness.

     

    But it is the RT RT that yields the bad results, and it's RT RT that Rene is using with success.  Look here.  Both cabs have glass in the door panels.

     

    1058441745_Untitled1.thumb.jpg.777a733a3bed894d0750c19eb7a50403.jpg 

     

    Rene's doors have glass panels and he does not have this issue, and he has less lighting inside.  Why?

     

    I dim the lights to 800 and try another RT RT, but change the door glass in the R cab to "opening no material."  Of course I see the lighting, in that one.

     

    11002938_RTRT50passesnightsun1inchspacingspots800lumensNOGLASSRIGHT.thumb.jpg.e3cd042c9543247915ca9298cf08908b.jpg

     

    What magic trick is Mr Rabbit doing with his glass?  All I want is something like this.

     

    1743342448_Screenshot2023-11-19111329.thumb.png.ddf0081696fa91d3c796bfd6a86bc46d.png

     

     

     

     

     

  6. I can do a really simple model, a few windows and doors, some ordinary lighting, a piece of furniture or two, and some cabinets, and if I real time raytrace, and then in that display mode, do a zoom, or maybe orbital move, it doesn't take much, my system locks up and the the whole thing goes crash.

     

    CPU ray trace works all day every day, no problems.

     

    I got this new machine (see specs in sig) in order to be able to do RTRT, but it's never really worked.  The only way I can operate without the lockups and crashes is to quickly go into camera spec dialog and cap my samples and check to stop when capped.  And then treat the view as a CPU ray trace.  Things go blooey if I try to zoom or pan or do anything with the mouse.

     

    However, a RTRT display this specified (capped at 150 passes) begins new passes if anything is done to trigger a restart of sampling, such as a move, or a selection, and it takes very little of this to make the program lock and then the whole PC crashes.

     

    I have driver version 31.0.15.3598.

  7. But hey, Rene (and thanks for coming into the room!), I've watched your video multiple times, and you never moved the light sources outside the tube.  You set one at 0,0,0 and move it up Z and then copy, move, copy, move, to get the array.  But they are all inside the tube.

     

    The way these current LED stick-on tapes are, I think I'll model the light as a 1/16" t. x 3/8" w. solid and extrude it up to my needed length, then make it a light and place the spotlights along the surface.  The reason for the tube (for rope lights, so 20th century) and in my new dreamed up version, is to have a surface you can paint with the lighting white emissive to give it the 3D look of reality.

  8. Got it.  Sorry for the use of bandwidth.  It is the little number style icon in bottom R of dialog.  I came to open this new plan after working a survey plan that I had changed the units to survey bearing angles and decimal feet.  Apparently Chief carries that setting into a new plan.

     

    Is this how it should work, this carry forward of unit types?

  9. I opened a new plan file to do a kitchen, and used the X15 OOB Kitchen and Bath Imperial template.  Or at least I think it is OOB.

     

    Did a one room house plan with exterior walls and then laid in some CAD rectangles to plan a layout.  The plan wants to do everything in decimal feet, the decimals to five places.  Trying to edit a CAD polyline, simple rectangle, the temp dimensions come up in fractional inches as expected with K&B, but Chief takes my input as decimal feet.

     

    I want inches.  Where is this controlled?

    Screenshot 2023-11-13 101538.png

  10. @JennaJenris Hi, I wonder if you can explain how you are using the size info you say you need tabbed out, to order or make cabinets.

     

    My customers that are builders and remodelers, all buy the cabinet packages unbundled and site-build or shop-build the cabinets themselves.  This means the carcases come from one source, and the fronts, d'boxes, finished trim and moldings come from another.  Hardware is purchased separately.  These customers are the de facto cabinetmakers.  Shipments of the various sub-packages arrive at the location at which cabinets are built.

     

    For those customers, a cabinet door order includes much more detail than just the height and width and count of doors.  Doors are specified by style code, edge treatment, panel raise (if stile and rail type), wood species, and finish, plus hinge machining, this by bore spec, bore backset, depth, and type fixing (Blum Inserta, etc.), plus bore positions.

     

    I've done work for clients who are the property owners and they hire the contractors that do the jobs, and my work product for them, cabinet-scope-wise, is the kind of plan views, elevations, details, and schedules one sees on a typical set of construction documents.  Those packages get quoted ordered and built the typical way:  cabinet shops or dealers that represent the brand names such as Wellborn, Crystal, or whatever work from the plans and the clients to tailor and supply a package as needed.

     

      

  11. Hi @Joe_Carrick how does the macro figure drawer box sizes?  Their width depends on the slides used, and height is typically done in scheduled increments and not figured as a simple formula from the opening height.  And does it specify thickness for sides, fronts, backs, and bottoms, plus bottom insets?  Further, Chief does not model a door to door center gap margin for paired doors.  Does your macro size double doors based on user input for gap?

  12. I don't think so.  I use the freeware eCabinets alongside Chief and from a Chief cab schedule, enter all the cabs into a job batch, then produce the buy list, which lists out every door, drawerfront, drawerbox, drawerslide, and hinge in the job.

     

    Another output from the job batch is the CNC file that gets emailed to the cutting shop, from which we source all the carcase parts that are all labeled, shipped flat all banded and shrinkwrapped to pallets, for assembly usually at the sites but sometimes at the shops.

     

    I then take the eCabs buy list and enter it all into Walzcraft's interactive online ordering system, and it spits out the orders.  I am not concerned with s.f. per door or d'front, but that is an output element from the Walzcraft system.

  13. How are they going to switch between two?  Do they have the license and software?

     

    You show two.  Tell us how you got two roofs on the same model.  Maybe you have the solution.

     

    i'd make an exterior flyaround video of each and join the two in a single edited video, and give them the link.

    • Like 1
  14. Put the info in your sig so we can always see it, in this or any new posts you do.  If you figured out how to do an asbuilt in x15 you can certainly figure out how to do a sig.

     

    Hint:  it is called "Signature" and it is in your account settings.

     

    Then, do a better job telling us what problem you need to solve in making your asbuilt model.   And close the file, zip it, and attach it here.

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