GeneDavis

Not sure what you want to do with posts, but for stairs, I like to draw them in a totally open space near where I want to place them, and after making adjustments for rise, run, width, as may be required, then move them using point to point.

For ensuring that object like stairs bump and stop at walls (and they stop at the wall finish, in your case against your 1/2" material affixed to framing) be sure to set bumping using EDIT > SNAP SETTINGS > BUMPING/PUSHING to toggle the bump/push stop behavior.  Try it OFF, toggle it ON, and see how things work for stairs and other objects.  F11 is your shortcut key for this toggle.

It is a good idea when working with any release of Chief, to check out the tutorials available for what you will be doing.  This one addresses building with trusses.  

Looks like solid concrete stairs, rounded nosings, backbeveled risers.  
 

Looking forward to the Chief wizards to show us the way.

Could be done in solids.  Rene could do it in cabinets. 

On 6/8/2015 at 10:39 AM, simonas said:

I need to show in plan view either rough door opening of door size with frame included, non of these is possible. It's only door size without a frame which is really strange...why would you show door panel size in architectural drawings?

You guys work with Chief for decades... didn't you find this strange? Who needs this door panel size? Architects, builders, interior designers or even owner is not interested in this dimension at all.

The only person who will have advantage of this number is door producer. Everyone else wants to know door size (frame included) or door opening gap.

Construction docs for U.S.-built residential housing has used this format for both interior and exterior hinged doors for generations.  It isn't going to change.  Label a door as 2668 on a plan and the builder and framer will know what to build as a rough opening.

Where are you building that there is a need to identify a door on prints by its rough opening size?  Give us the location, and what kind of structure is being built.  Wood frame?  Concrete block?  Solid (formed and poured) concrete?  Straw bale?  Metal framing?

3 hours ago, Ed_Orum said:
It has to stay at two risers because the existing stairs are two risers.  If I was doing it from scratch, I would make the difference 14" so the risers would be 7" and the treads 11".  
I'll change the walls back to the default top wall height as you suggested.

Demo and rebuild

You edited your walls.  Change them back to default wall top height.

I'd recommend three risers not two for the climb between floor levels.  An 8" rise might be OK for a remodel stairs up to second if space is tight, but in that open-plan area, I'd want the comfort of a 5-3/8 x 12 3-rise arrangement.  There seems to be plenty of room.

In X15 with the pull on the door horizontal, but you want it vertical, go to the door/drawer panel in the cabinet spec dialog (you've been there and drew a red arrow).

See the EDIT button, to the right of the LIBRARY button?  Click it and study the panel.  You'll see how you can edit the handle's rotation.  Rotate it + or - 90 degrees.  Either works since the pull is symmetrical.

Click OK and the panel closes.  Now in the panel, in the door handle segment, see how you have control of the vertical and horizontal placement of the handle.  You can accept the default, you can center it, or you can define your position by an offset distance.  Full control.  Play with it until you understand it, and position the pull where you think it best goes.

It is interesting how Chief changed this operation from X14 when doing X15.  For some unknown reason, they had pulls shaped other than round rotating properly when painted to doors.  Now they don't perform that rotation step but let you rotate manually, and rotate to any angle you input.  I guess this gives more user control for pulls like twigs and antlers, pulls that are linear in that there are two fixing screw posts, but asymmetrical.

Edit:  I am attaching a pic of a twig pull, one that looks different when upright as shown but rotated 180 degrees.  We have full control over such assymetrical pulls as this, now.

What you seem to want is called a kiva fireplace.  Seen all over the southwest from Santa Fe to La Jolla.

What you show in your post immediately above is not the same shape as what is shown in the photo in your original post.  What is your goal here?

Are you needing to draw something that is going to get built?  Are you doing an as-built?  Has a client asked for some design concepts to be modeled by you to get ideas for possibly building or remodeling?

Here is a great resource from which you can get some dimensions.  https://adobelite.com/manuals/Adobelite_Wood_Burning_Installation_Manual.pdf

I noted that the webinar video was done using X14 and can confirm that the hardware app works differently X14 vs X15.  In 14, there is one choice only for the Moderno bar pull, and when used with paint in object mode, correctly orients the pull on the door (vertically), while the same one-click action places one horizontally on the drawerfront.

X15 is changed, in that there are multiple choices in the bonus library for the Moderna bar pull.  One is called Moderno Handle and the other is called Moderno Bar Pull.  I can see no difference in either the 3D model, or the result one gets applying it to a cabinet in object mode.

In X15, I get the same result as @DaniellaZV.  The Moderna hardware (either one) goes on the drawerfront correctly, bar horizontal, but incorrectly on the door.  See her post #1 above.  The door pull needs to be edited, first to rotate it, next to adjust height.  I edited both height and horizontal placement, the horizontal edit to place it at center of stile.

So the answer to Daniella's dilemma is, Chief changed the app X14 to X15, no explanation given, but that the tools are there to make the hardware work.

@DaniellaZV, did you apply the pull hardware to the cabinet using the object painting tool, as was done in the bootcamp video?

Chief places the center of the pull where specified.  Choose a knob and it's easy to see, but choose a pull with 3.5" length and you will have to do a little math in your head to specify placement.

@DHerb2014, in the time it took you to write your first post, do the picture and the attachment, then write your reply to mine, you could have drawn a cone, a block, an ellipse and made it a solid, and fiddled with subtractions and exploding solids (so that you can faces in unique textures) so as to be able to model this fireplace.

To do it right for your specific plan, use Chief CAD in an elevation view to draw and measure your base size, height, and w x h of the fireplace opening, then use the measurements and CAD to determine your cone dia x height.  One click and two entries, and you have the cone.  Draw a big brick solid to use as the subtractor, and position it, then go and subtract the top part of the cone.  Now make a poly, a fat ELL shape, convert it to a solid, size it to be same height as truncated cone, position it so it cuts away 3/4 of the truncated cone, what is left is your fireplace stack.  In elevation view, draw and position the ellipse (30" w x 40" h is what I used), convert it to a solid, position it to cut your fireplace hole, and do the subtraction.

My file is attached, but whether it fits your space is a question.

Maybe Eric or Steve will enter the room and do a video.  It's a fun little exercise in solids and surfacing.  Really quick.

Kiva 80 inch dia x 12 feet high.plan

Try getting familiar with solids and Boolean operations.  I see a truncated cone, only one-quarter of it, with the fire opening a half ellipse shape punched into its front.  The hearth is a simple slab.

Here is a stack with a fireplace opening, for a corner like what you show.  Model something like this plus the quarter circle slab that's the hearth, and you are on your way.

19 hours ago, kylejmarsh said:

Yikes I can't believe they put windows with horizontal panes in an otherwise well-done dormer. 

Yes!  They'd look far better with a single heavy muntin, vertical, centered.  Same scale or almost as seen in main floor glass.

Other than roof pitch, how do they differ from other dormers?

No sigs viz in Safari.  Wish they were, but no.

Go to window and door defaults and at each go to framing tab and set the header to (1) 3-1/2 x 1-1/2.  Then frame one wall, examine framing.  If needed, correct the defaults to get exactly what you want.

Select walls and generate remaining framing.

I know, I know!  I could have said get the defaults right then rebuild all wall framing by clicking once.  I do it wall by wall and any edits or annotation get done same time.

Before you go further with the roof shape and its underside look, you might want to talk with the builder and his framing sub.

Kickup roofs are usually somewhat more subtle than what you show and the curved kick is overframed, thus there would be no convex curve to the vaulted ceiling below.

There are plenty of guys on YouTube showing how these get framed.

A contractor prepping that garage with the compacted gravel would never ever slope it, if he sloped it at all, to match the way the slab is screeded and troughed.

Look at the pic.  The away-from-door end is level, and is level until the trough begins its fall.  For a typical 20-foot slope falling 1/8 inch every 12, the slab top as it goes out the door atop the stemwall, is 2-1/2" lower than the level area.

The simplest way to build that gravel base is flat all across the full width at that unpitched end, then sloped full width to the door end.  Sections of the slab at sides of the trough end up thicker.

Is it really important for the software to have tools to model all this 3D with precision?  I can't answer that.  I wasn't one of those saying Chief needs to do sloped slabs.  I was entering the room to say that the sloped slabs I see done are always troughed as I drew one, so of we're going to get the tools, we need ways to represent how we build.

I've been fine using CAD and anno to spec these out on con docs.

Nice work, Glenn, and thanks.  Let's see you work out a solution for the surface of the bottom of such a troughed-to-drain slab, and then the perimeter edges, so we've all the surfaces of the garage slab modeled in 3D.  

NI've done dollhouse flyovers that helped clients see the room spaces in 3D.  Like a slow drone, camera straight down.  They can see how the flows work.

That and the eave-level slow fly around to see all elements of the exterior.

I understood the door used at sides (need for a LH and RH) was a custom with an overhang and corner cut, but the deck/shelf front edge is out to the plane of the door faces and has its corners rounded.

I'm always interested in the clever ways to do Chief cabinets (I am a dummy with them), but if the job is a one-off and it's gonna get built by having a cabinet source quote and order it using somebody's cab line, I'd be happy with the thing I did with solids.  The plan and elevation and render views will look fine, the schedule will need a note because the size will report wrong and won't show the shelf (if the schedule includes 2D or 3D cab views).

I'm not a dummy with the CNC app I use for cab jobs, though, and would have no trouble doing this cabinet with all its lock-dado and pocketscrew details.

How will the shelf deck which wraps the sides and has rounded front corners be addressed if doing sides as doors?

Timer on.  Eight minutes.  The four parts below the wall cab are 3D solids.  

I have fat fingers.

I changed my walkthroughs after getting bad results with too many camera keyframes.  Now I do them as Alan describes above, and use a free video editing app to string them together with fades between, then put them in the cloud with a private link for the client.  Outside, I'll begin with a drone walkaround, an elliptical or circle path, about at roof edge elevation, two cameras only, both with slight down tilt, absolute elevation, looking at house with 90 degree rotation for camera, then go inside for a tour using a single arc for each room or space.  Experiment a little with lighting and camera heights and tilts and angles, but only two keyframes per arc segment, one at start, one at end.