GeneDavis

You posted this in the wrong place.  Move it over to Q&A. 

Then start by telling us what software you are using.  This forum is for Chief Premiere users.  Home Designer has its own forum elsewhere.

So figure out how to do your signature (see mine for ideas) and do it, then if your software is Chief Premiere (X15 or X14 or whichever), close the file, zip it to compress, and attach it to your next post in this thread you have begun.

Those buried dormers always have roof planes at their downhill sides.  Maybe only pitched at 1/4" in 12", but nonetheless a roof.  So the "pocket" is not a floor or deck, but a roof.

New layout.  File>Print>DrawingSheetSetup.  Select Arch E size.  Edit to create the border and all the blocks needed for title, project, date, sheet number, etc.  Save as template file.

Seems to me like a layout file can only have a single sheet size.

Happens to me, too, but I ignore it.

Why not file a ticket with Chief and report back their response?

These flat-roofed projects don't have parapets but do have structural metal decking bearing on wood framing.  The tower project has rigid tapered insulation, making the roof surface like a hipped roof pitched 1/4" in 12" all four ways.

https://salaarc.com/project-types/featured/box-camp/

https://salaarc.com/project-types/featured/metal-lark/

Lotsa good info here about tapered roof insulation  https://www.insulfoam.com/tapered-insulation/

Does the front dormer wall align with the wall below?

I think of a framing list in three parts.  Walls and roof and floor structures.  And Chief gives those breakouts.

Since I work hard to make the floor structures and roofs framed as they should, those results are pretty good.  It's walls that are messy in the Chief reporting.

I have watched the framing and the delivered materials for walls have only two lengths.  Stud lengths and 16 footers.  Stud lengths like 92 5/8" or 104 5/8".  So run two material lists, one as the buy list to get your stud length counts (ignoring all that are not studs), and run a list that gives total length.  Subtract your studs from that total, divide the remainder by 16 feet, and now you have your 16s for walls.  Add 20 percent to the 16s and 15 for the studs.

Rake walls, gable walls, anything with a canted top, gets figured as 16s.  If you have some big tall ones you probably had to engineer in some LSL studs in 18 to 24 foot lengths, and those get tallied, with extras added.  Like 10 percent.

Analyze carefully what Chief counted for headers, and table out according, editing as needed, and adding a couple of 16s to each size lumber header.  Not the LVLs or PSLs.  Use what Chief reports for that, but you have examined it carefully and edited as required.

Floors report with accuracy because I have built them accurately.  Same for roofs.  I table everything out like blocking, subfascia, truss fills, at 16 foot lengths, and add 20 percent.

The reason your lists seem so wrong is that the guy at the yard is trying his best to figure, is likely ignoring every single opening, doors and windows, to get his stud and shoe and plate numbers, and then adding maybe even as much as 25 percent.

Whatever doesn't get used gets picked up and credited back.

How many passes has it run.  Did you try overnight?

Did you generate a material list?

These are stretchers being discussed here.  Everybody in the biz calls them that.  Base cabinets are built this way, one front and one rear.  But not a sink base, which has a stretcher across its top front, and none on top.

It is done as material savings and countertops conceal it all.  I don't understand the point of having Chief do these for us.

We use eCabinets software to get our cabinets, sourcing the carcases from the CNC cutter, the fronts from one of the door and drawerbox houses, and hardware from the usual sources.  So cabinets get built on site, typically by the end of the first day.  Then the hanging and installing begins.

I did a job for a guy that hadn't done site assembly before, and attached here is just one sequence of about a half dozen, to show him how to assemble.  What makes it tricky is the captured backs of the cabinets.  It seems counterintuitive to fit the back to the top and deck as the first step.  Once you have done one, the other fifteen go fast.

Close file and zip it.

This is from a Chief Architect Premier model?  How would we know?  

Do a signature please.  Sort of like mine.  Software being used, hardware on which it runs, other relevant info.

Thanks!

I cannot find where to do this.  Gimme a hint, please.  I'd like to do it in defaults so as not to have to go wall by wall already built.  I can change the material to OSB vertical in the default for exterior wall sheathing, but where is the key for the size?

I recall watching a Chief training video on trusses, and the ceiling planes were draw with baselines at the outside of exterior walls.  If there is no plane to stop the wall, the wall will reach up to whatever stops it.

I'm completing a set of con docs right now for a shed-roofed house, and found i-joists to be much better, cost-wise, than parallel chord trusses.

58 minutes ago, rlackore said:

 

It's not just 3D though. When you cut a section, you have to use CAD to properly illustrate the slope. Lots of things can be affected by the slope: porch columns, piers, top-of-foundation, minimum thickness of a wear layer (at precast decks), etc.

And if this is your absolute need, gotta have it, write it up in the Suggestions section.  For me, the sloped sections would be drawn like the way we draw roof planes.  The image shown here is of a 22 x 22 2-car garage, sloped the way one of my builder clients does it.  His flatwork sub places screeds to get it right.

Garage floor slopes are typically more complex, with hips and valleys.  I just draw the lines and annotate.  No one has ever asked for 3D realism in something so subtle.

If you just absolutely must have it for 3D realism and the customer is paying for it, draw the 4" slab and put a 3D solid wedge atop, 2.5" to zero.

Well, there's a nice outside-the-box solution.  i like it!

Or do it with 3D solids, exploded, so you can wood-grain texture the faces appropriately.

I can't find it.

I needed one so modeled it in SU and did the import/make to achieve a light fixture.  So here is a plan with the one I used in a plan (for hanging from a 3:12 vaulted ceiling, and one that is level.

The level one is "raw," in that it needs editing to add lights and do textures.  The one with the pitched canopy/transformer housing is set up with an array of 3/8 dia. point lights inside the LED light cavity.  The cavity has a 1/16 thick lens I textured as Lighting White with 100 percent transparency, which one might want to tweak a little.

Wac Volo Linear LED Pendants.plan

Dave's not here.

I don't know how and need guidance.  I made a corner shelf in a shower using the slab tool, and cannot figure how to address my situation, which is one texture on the edge, and another on the top.  Two different.

I converted it into a 3D solid and that did not help.  I want the same 3x6 subway tile on both these faces, and know I have to make a version for each to handle direction and origin.

I'm a fan of these, because they light a dining table so nicely, and are relatively inexpensive.  If you gotta do a $6,500 chandelier over the dining table in that big vaulted space, do so, but I prefer enough can lights for general lighting, always dimmable, and one of these for each two table settings.

Modeled in Sketchup and imported and lit with 4 little point lights right up against where the LEDs are in the real ones, this one is modeled after one of the better products available from Amazon.com.  14" h. x 4" dia., matte dark gray.

Table lamp rechargeable.plan