Joe_Carrick

This is pretty easy. Just put the windows in before connecting the intersecting walls. You will have to make sure that the intersecting walls at the corner window are different (Wall Type or Layer) so that they don't connect as one wall when brought into contact.

1. Walls 2. Foundation 3. Roof 4. Framing That's the basics.

Chief tends to use Check Boxes in a lot of Dialogs where they should use Radio Buttons. If I was the boss there would be some GUI standards inforced. Check Boxes are intended for Multiple Choice Radio Buttons are intended for Exclusive. But Chief doesn't seem to have any consistency in how they use them.

The Pier Foundation is basically intended to be below grade piers, not pilings. For your project I would use the Post with Footings Tool. I would add a Floor 1 as the open space beneath the house and make the walls at that floor invisible (except for the storage, etc that you might have under the house). You might designate that space as Garage, Utility, Storage, etc. IOW, the space beneath the house is a "Floor" even if it isn't surrounded by walls. You could still use a "Pier with Walls" Foundation but you put Pilings (Round Posts) between the Foundation and the Floor above.

You can set those locations in the Dimension Defaults (Locate Objects)

In the Window Schedule you can list the Size, Width, Height and the R/O. Typically Size is the item used for ordering which corresponds to Width & Height. The R/O is larger. Size: 2640DH ....2'6" wide, 4'0" tall, Double Hung Width: 30" Height: 48" R/O: 32"x50" (1" gap all around) the gap can be set in the Window dbx or in Defaults.

It's not a purpose. It's a limit of what the GPU (Graphics Card) is capable of. Some GPUs can only show 4 light sources, some can show 8. I don't know what the limit is for the real high end GPU's

The key to this is in the Wall Type definition. There is a setting for "Dimension to Exterior of Layer" which is generally set to the Face of the Main (framing) layer. To dimension to the face of the Sheathing you would need to change that Wall Type. Personally, I would not do that since it will tend to make the Foundation a different dimension (although that can be set to "Foundation to Exterior of Layer". But if the Foundation is at the face of the Sheathing then the studs will need to be inset to allow the sheathing to be flush. Most builders want dimensions to the Exterior of the Framing Layer. That's pretty much standard drafting practice. IAE, it's all controlled in the Wall Type Definition.

The Molding Polyline would be my first choice but you could also use a "Slab" edited to the shape of one step and then copy-repeat to create the additional steps.

Which of course has nothing to do with Ray Traces. For Most Ray Traces you want to "Turn Off" lights that are not in the Room. Otherwise they will effect the speed.

Here's a link to a thread with a video I did on this subject. Maybe it will help you. Note that I use a Glass Wall with a Tile Pony Wall. The Pony Wall is a single full thickness Tile material https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/4257-x7-glass-shower-video-by-joe-carrick/?hl=%2Bglass+%2Bshower

Ken, I know you said you are using the latest version for MAC but it would help to have an actual product and version number. We can't help if we don't know exactly what software and version you are using.

Kenneth, What version of Chief are you using?

Ray, I think he want's to have it look like it was cut from a single piece of plywood so the grain is continuous rather than each drawer having a separate grain. The only way I know of doing this is to make the Doors and Drawers a "Transparent" Material and then imposing a single Solid with the desired material just behind the front of the cabinet face. It's kind of tricky but it will make the grain appear to be continuous.

It happens once in a while but you shouldn't have edited my number in your reply.

I tend to agree with Michael. Walk in Closets are nice if you have the extra space. But it takes at least a 7'x5' deep Walk-In to equal the hanging space in (2) 2'x5' linear closets. IOW, 35 sq.ft. vs 20 sq.ft. OTOH, if you have the space for a larger Walk-In you can have dressing areas, a bench, mirrors, etc inside rather than take up room in the bedroom or bath for those items. So sometimes the best solution isn't a Walk-In and sometimes it is. It's all a matter of what works best and looks best.

Definitely different things. I would do that with 2 Base Cabinets and just span the space between with a Custom Countertop. That configuration would not be able to use a Lazy Susan so just consider that pie shaped space in the corner as "lost". In theory, you could use a single cabinet on the diagonal but it would actually give you less storage space.

Dennis, Works for me in X7.

It depends on the setting in the Framing Defaults. There's a box that can be unchecked so that you can specify the spacing independent of the Wall Material.

Are you changing the "Material" in the "Exterior Wall Type" or the "Framing Defaults"? It makes a difference.

Dennis, Just match the BACK to the FRONT. You will just have to play with which way you angle the front so that the 180 degree rotation gives you the correct angle.

AFAIK, you can only lock one of the Roof Plan parameters. Even then, I think any edits to position needs to be done in the dbx. I don't think you can just drag it.

Open the 1st Layout and 1st Plan Open the 2nd Plan Send the Elevations to the Layout. IOW, you can send from as many Plans to the currently opened Layout as you want.

BTW, It would be nice if we could suppress the Toe-Kick on the Front Face and have it present on the either side or the back as needed. OTOH, it would be really nice if Chief would just give us an Angled Back. It's been requested so many times that I've lost count.

Create a Cabinet with an angled Front. Make the Side & Back Match the Front. Rotate so the Front is against the angled wall. That's the best I've come up with waiting for CA to give us an Angled Back. Note, Generally if I have to do this I create a PSolid for the Cabinet Base, superimposed on the bank of cabinets so that the toe-kick looks right in 3D.