Alaskan_Son

Members
  • Posts

    12204
  • Joined

Everything posted by Alaskan_Son

  1. By "plan", we mean the actual plan file. Too many variables otherwise.
  2. It depends on what you are worth to people. One guy might charge $150 and another guy might charge $50. If the guy charging $150 has the talent and training of Frank Lloyd Wright and is 3 times as fast and efficient as the guy charging $50, the guy charging $50 starts to look like he's OVERcharging and the guy charging $150 starts to look like a bargain.
  3. I don't have any great answer for you at the moment, but did you try unlocking the cross section lines layer (not at my computer and don't remember what it's actually called) and then selecting those? Might partially speed up the process...I don't know. BTW Johnny, I think you really have a gift for creating beautiful 2D visuals. Every time you post any of your finish quality CAD work I am always very impressed. Nice work.
  4. We do. It's called proper layer control
  5. It's about two thirds of the way down the list. Just looks blank like one of the lines is missing.
  6. First suggestion... Post the plan. Then we can all be on the same page.
  7. I don't think there's any way you're going to get an accurate answer without a plan. If we could tell what you were talking about from your original post and the truss plans there would be no reason for you to draw plan in the first place. I always find it somewhat interesting when people here say that the plan isn't necessary when we pay thousands of dollars for software and people pay us thousands of dollars to draw plans...And why do we draw plans? For the sole purpose of communicating information. Seems like if anyone would understand the importance of seeing the whole picture it would be the designers and builders on this forum.
  8. You could also optionally group select those points by switching to the Point Marker tool and just put them on their own layer if you want to keep them but don't want them to print.
  9. Select the room and click the Make Room Molding Polyline tool. Then you have an automatically created molding polyline you can edit however you want. P.S. I noticed you sent me a P.M. I'll check it out in a bit here.
  10. I would strongly suggest you ask her before doing this so you don't step on any toes, but you could consider downloading the trial version for use in the interim. It is of course your right to do whatever you want, but as a designer and builder I know there are a lot of problems that can arise by getting "too many cooks in the kitchen". Using the viewer is one thing but being able to get in and make changes could lead to some unexpected consequences and may not be in anyone's best interest.
  11. There are a few ways you could do that: - You could add some text before or after the actual dimension as necessary to reflect the required information. - You could add a line with arrows on both ends and then manually place some text over that line ("30" minimum" or whatever they want to see) to mimic a dimension. - Probably the best method...Make your dimension text a little smaller and just manually place whatever text you want over the top of it. You actually don't even need to make the dimension text smaller if your new text is as long or longer than the dimension text. There may be others as well, but those are a few that come to mind. I have requested in the past that we have a way to modify dimensions for situations like this. May be time to suggest it again.
  12. Here's a video going over a pretty quick and accurate way to model that type of siding using polyline solids produced via CDFV (CAD Detail From View). While I was proof watching the video I realized I did some things kinda inefficiently near the end (could have used some simpler methods for the group selecting and subtraction process) but it should give you a pretty good idea anyway.
  13. I honestly don't really care one way or another in this situation, but I find it interesting when people say things like that. Does the contractor you work for buy exclusive and total rights to your work? Also, you don't even have to post the entire plan in most circumstances. Just do a Save As and delete all the unnecessary stuff. In this particular instance for example all we might really need to see is a stripped down plan with a few walls and a screenshot of one of the wall details. Its all good though.
  14. I'd like to see an example of one of those plans if you're willing to post it (both the plan file and layout or CDs). If done properly with polyline solids there should be no reason you have to do the extra CAD work. In fact, I would probably use CAD work as the basis for my polyline solids anyway so the 2 should match perfectly.
  15. I agree, and I believe I also suggested the same thing some time back. Material regions, custom backsplashes, etc. really need to extend to the outside finished corner.
  16. You're going to have to be more specific because I was able to fix it doing as I suggested. After fixing the problem you need to add windows to your first floor though as you don't actually have any down there. Those openings you saw were just cutouts for the windows in the wall above. As you had it drawn up, the floor for the second level was being supplied by the room below which means that's where the windows were being placed...referencing the floor below.
  17. Several methods depending on the desired panel layout and overall look you're going for. Here are a few. - Polyline solids. Probably what I would do. - Material regions. Could be used for either the panels or maybe for the gaps between panels. - A custom material/texture.
  18. Your problem seems to be that you have some very strange room definitions. The entire top floor structure defaults are set to "Floor Supplied by the Foundation Room Below". Uncheck that setting for the rooms on that top floor so that you have an actual floor structure and your problem should be solved.
  19. Its because the dormer wall and the wall below are a single wall. Move dormer to attic level (where it will actually reside) and you should be good to go.
  20. That's a very creative solution Johnny. I think the correct thing to do though is to cut and paste hold position the dormer to the next floor up.
  21. Attach the plan or you have close to a zero percent chance of getting an answer.
  22. You should probably attach the plan. There should be no reason you can't just use the material painter on that one wall if you have X8. If you're still in X7, you can use the Explode Dormer tool and then just change the wall definition for that one wall, you could use a material region, or you could use a wall covering. There may be other ways as well but those are the few that come to mind. EDIT: Just tested and the material painter works the same way in X7 in that situation. You should be able to simply paint the one wall. Just make sure Blend Colors With Materials is toggled off.
  23. This was recently discussed here... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/8616-glazed-cabinets/?view=findpost&p=75959&hl=glazing