Alaskan_Son

I don't deny there's a problem and I know Chief already acknowledged it although I thought it had been fixed. Anyway, out of curiosity, is there a particular reason you feel the need to block those?

CJ or Joe could be right with the alignment issues, but I just double checked to verify, and I can very easily recreate the issue...still hasn't been fixed Like I said though, simply clicking Rebuild 3D fixes it in those instances. Here are 3 quick examples. And for the record, simply clicking undo and then redo seems to have the same effect as Rebuild 3D...

Attach the plan for a better answer, but I've found this can often times be an odd bug within Chief. I've reported the issue in the past. Usually all I have to do is click "Rebuild 3D" and the problem fixes itself. If I remember correctly its almost always a problem where wall cabinets and full height cabinets meet each other.

Yep, or what Perry said. It really depends on what you're trying to do and how you want things displayed.

Tom, not sure exactly what you're talking about without seeing it, but from the sounds of it, what you need to do is build the second floor stacked right on top of the first and make the room type for the upper section "Open Below".

Which version of Chief are you using?

I just got back to the office and had a quick chance to take a look at your plan. Problem is that you have different room definitions for those foundation rooms. The numbers I have indicated (taken from the garage area) are both zero for your main structure... That zero stem wall height is essentially resulting in no wall to display. In the attached picture you should be able to see what I'm talking about. The top of slab and top of walls are at the same height. You can see "z-fighting" in some places where the top of wall and top of slab on the main structure are occupying the same space. Not sure exactly what your goal is, but if you just change the stem wall height to 1/16" the wall will show up.

It might not be. I don't know. I was just sharing my logic. i7 is just newer technology so it stands to reason that it will last a little longer.

I would just use polyline solids for the gussets (drawn in elevation view), and I would start by creating a CAD Detail From View, drawing polylines in that CAD detail, and then Cut and Paste Hold Position back into elevation before converting to a polyline solid. Starting with the CAD detail will give you some line work to start with and a lot more usable snapping properties. This thread might be of some use to you... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/7867-using-cad-detail-from-view-as-a-drawing-tool/ There are a few videos in there with the basic idea.

If it's a more complicated truss design you're after... I would just draw it with polyline solids. You can even start with regular polylines and then use the Convert Polyline tool to convert them to polyline solids.

Joey is right... "...the others are going to chastise you..." You should really attach the plan. There are just too many variables.

You'll get a much quicker answer if you attach the plan. If you don't, you may ever get an answer because it depends so much on how you actually drew the plan.

I think this is about right. Performance isn't all that different. The bigger issue in my mind is newer technology vs. older technology. I think the i5 processor will start having compatibility issues sooner and will become obsolete sooner. This has been my driving factor when purchasing new computers as of late.

Okay, I thought we were talking about 2 different things. Under Build>Wall there is a tool called Hatch Wall which is what I thought you were talking about. What it sounds like you did was assign a FILL with a hatched pattern to your wall's MAIN LAYER (through the Wall Type Definitions dbx). FWIW, the 3 main layers involved are... Walls, Normal - This is the layer that your walls are put onto by default. If the layer is turned off, your walls will not display at all. If ONLY this layer (of the 3) is turned on, it will essentially draw 2 lines, the interior and exterior surface of the full thickness of your wall. Walls, Layers - This is the layer that will essentially draw your additional wall layers (drywall, sheathing, siding, etc.). Walls, Main Layer Only - If this layer is turned on, it will draw only the main layer of your wall. If you select the wall, you will see the entire thickness highlighted, but only the main layer will draw.

Make sure the Walls, Hatching layer is turned on in the Framing Layer Set

Never mind. I just tested myself. Still the same.

I just got back to the office. Opened your plan and simply used the little diamond shaped edit handle (not really sure what that thing is called) to drag a new wall section around the corner and it worked perfectly. Didn't reverse layers or anything.

Here's a quick video showing how to just use the actual truss tool. I used X6 because its the oldest version I still have installed but I think X3 should work about the same...although the dialogue boxes look quite a bit different if I remember correctly. P.S. I didn't go over it in the video, but you can also get different size webbing if you want by building 2 trusses with different settings and overlaying them on each other. This method may require checking "Lock Truss Envelope" in some cases though.

Curious, have you tested the behavior in X8 yet?

I noticed the pass through too. I have a feeling it was somehow just the result of the dormer window being set to frame through double walls.

Properly executed, I think all the above are equally legitimate options and could result in near identical results. Really boils down to which tools a person is most proficient at using as well as the desired end result.

Not at my computer right now, but have you tried putting a break in that adjacent wall, chmaging the wall type for half of that wall section and then dragging it over to where you want it?

I for one have always felt that way. Never noticed much difference. Never found a reason for final view either other than to quickly add shadows.

That particular instance I would probably just do with material regions, mouldings, or polyline solids. It would probably be easier than creating the texture, would be more accurate, and would look more realistic.

Unlock and display the gutters layer and then click on that segment and click "No Moulding On Selected Edge".