Ridge_Runner

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Posts posted by Ridge_Runner

  1. 30"-36" - Text clarity was my biggest concern in switching to a TV. The 4K TCL I use is excellent in this area - much better than my 32" LG. Wish I had made the change before I did because I no longer have the eye strain I did with smaller monitors.

  2. 1 hour ago, rwdozier said:

    I could not be happier with my 43" TCL. Less than $240, tax and all. see specs below.

    Same here, except my 43" TCL is model 43S415. I bought a Hisense 43" 4K from Walmart but it only lasted a few weeks; screen went blank and would not turn back on. Took it back and ordered another TCL. That said, if you go the Hisense route, yours may work just fine.

  3. 2 hours ago, Archnot-Boltz said:

    Detailing a true masonry chimney with smoke shelf etc is a bit of a challenge for sure. And stepping the taper is a pain but doable. Not sure what Chief would give us since chimneys are so variable in size and design.

    Ryan, I think Brad says most of it in this statement. True masonry chimneys, especially for as-builts and much older houses, require a lot of work as they aren't walls but objects. I have done them using the tools CA gives us (slabs, solids, polyline solids, moldings, etc.). Fancy brickwork adds to the pain. CA had a masonry chimney symbol in the library very early on (not sure how early, but I started with Chief 97 and 3D Home before that). It was very limited in use and couldn't be modified very easily; more for looks really and a plan symbol. I agree that there are too many variables for CA to give us period fireplaces. How would they know what is wanted/needed for "your" fireplace and chimney?

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  4. Some guidelines say to not fasten the last 12" of drywall, at the wall, to the bottom cord - let it "float." The drywall on the walls will support the ceiling edge and allow the trusses to move. The logic goes contrary to the way most think, but seems to work. If on an interior wall, use truss clips and fasten to allow the truss to float but still be held in position by the clips. Also, this one from JLC https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/truss-uplift-solutions#:~:text=Truss uplift usually occurs when,that closes in the summer. Another article https://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Roof_Truss_Uplift.php

     

  5. 12 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

    I run my joist labels perpendicular to the joist direction and always have

    I did this for years until I started trying to use CA's joist labels a few years ago. I believe perpendicular (or at least at an angle across the area, which I have seen before) is the "old school" way of doing it; at least in my area.

  6. 12 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

    You can't.  Not sure if I've sent in a suggestion or not, but it's something I personally think about and wish for almost every time I go into that dialog.

    Same here. Every time it catches me I go down frustration lane!