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About jasonN

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  1. I can see why that is a very good idea. I have a few things I want to setup. texting by layer/view, dimension by layer/view. right now I change the text layers manually (or copy from previous plans) and I'm not liking my lack of organization
  2. Thanks, I think that answers the question of whether people use a pony wall to model it (answer is no, use an interior wall and set the attribute to "foundation wall") But I notice I have no such wall layer (walls interior) that he has. My interior walls are defaulted to layer "walls normal" for normal walls, and when I click the "foundation wall" attribute, the layer switched to "walls foundation". so back to the same problem ...but this is better option because I can just change this wall to the "walls normal" and everything looks great. i.e. these types of walls are certainly drawn a lot less than foundation walls, so I like this option to change only this wall to a different layer merci!
  3. Hi all, For houses with basements there is a need sometimes to have a footing beneath a framed wall within the basement, as it would be a load bearing wall (for instance instead of posts). I used a pony wall to model this and everything looks good, except that the foundation plan shows the framed wall. This isn't a deal breaker, but it also shows the doors entrances which will be in the framed wall. It looks a bit odd to me as the cribber does not care that there is a framed wall there with two door entries. I tried all of the different display options for the pony wall, but to no avail. I noticed joey shows his foundation plan this way(with the door openings) in the post: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/5291-foundations-plans-and-floors/?tab=comments#comment-46068 Ideally I would like to show the foundation plan "for the cribbers" (which is the footings and exterior concrete walls) without showing framed walls (as these are not done by the cribbers). The only way I can think to do this is to put the normal outside foundation wall on a different layer, lets call it "pure foundation wall layer", and dont show the normal foundation wall layer in my foundation plan. I would then put in my foundation layer set this "pure foundation wall layer". This should then show the outside basement walls (as they have to be cribbed) but it would not show the interior framed wall, but would still show the footing. My question is, is this what people do(framed wall in a basement on a different layer than the outside foundation wall), or do they do as joey shows, or something else? Are people using pony walls for this setup? below is what I initially did with the pony wall and looks similar to joey's setup. Both walls are on the same layer. Notice the two door breaks in the wall Thanks Jason
  4. jasonN

    Door & Window Headers - Question

    Back at the original request, I think they could add a header check to the Tools-Check->Plan check Right now I go into the wall detail, check the size of the header and compare to the schedule (After I go look up the label to remember which one it was). Not the most efficient
  5. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    I like this solution as then there is only 1/4" actual difference, and that will get absorbed somewhere. even if it was the bathroom and the framer framed at 59-3/4", I think the tubs here are 59 3/4, so it would just fit. We have a min R value requirement up here for roofs. I think its up to around R50 now. So the heel can get quite tall. If someone was building their own and wanted to do fiberglass batt, R50 would be about 15" plus air gap, so at least 16" tall. so for a 5:12 roof with 18" eave and 2x6 fascia, it would only come down around 13" (of course one could cheat the Rvalue above the top plate as it had been done for decades) So trusses would need to be shortened to be inside the sheathing. Plus for ridge beam plus half trusses, the height is typically at least 16"
  6. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    yes when I did an outbuilding on my own property, the truss guys asked that very question. Is it flush to the stud or flush to the sheathing and what is that dimension. I said to him, wouldn't everyone want it flush to the stud so when they sheath the heel (heels here are high in order to get more insulation in) it would be flush with the wall. He said no some want it to the sheathing, but he did not no why. I'm now guessing the interpretation of the plans he gets are the same problem as this post. He does not know where the actual stud is landing. ...But at least he asked.
  7. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    I assume then you are dimensioning to the stud for both, and the stud dimensions equal the foundation, so that the dimensions are cleaner, then in your general notes you indicate it is to the stud? I'm curious do you also note that if they are aligning the sheathing to the foundation, that the framer should take it out of any room but the bathroom? Or do you actually change your dimensioning and general notes between the two scenarios?
  8. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    that from what I can tell is the cleanest solution. I actually went around and checked here, and was surprised to see they were not overlapping. Which is why I started thinking about it. Not that I have seen a lot of other plans, but I've never seen dimensions on plans to the eight for the first or last wall in the room that I can remember. So I'm pretty sure the framer "just knows" to take it off "a" room, just not a bathroom
  9. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    finished grade is typically at least one foot below the bottom of the 2x6. The basement top of concrete wall is typically then at least 17" above grade. The reason is snow here. We try and keep snow away form the wood. So if you are doing some math, we typically always have at least three risers here for front steps
  10. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    sill plate "gasket" for moisture: https://www.rona.ca/en/sill-plate-gasket-5-1-2-x-75-white-35475079
  11. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    close instead of side by side one is inside, one is outside. 5" of concrete in the middle Its also not pressure treated, just regular 2x6. Which is interesting when you think about it. Apparently it is an "Alberta" thing. A cribber from Ontario told me they dont do it like that there. but it does make for a nice even finish when the cribbers are done
  12. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    here is a picture of my garage wall looking down, where I have about 15" of the concrete wall coming out of the ground. you can see the 2x6 on edge As well here they put a membrane beneath the sill plate for moisture
  13. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    They run "ladders" below the bottom plate here. Rather ingenious idea to get a flat concrete wall Ladders are comprised of 2x6 on edge which are put into the concrete forms for basement walls. for 8" concrete wall, actual concete for last 5.5" is only 5" wide. think of it as ICF as the last block, but wood But in thinking about it, even if there were not ladders, I think they keep the sheeting off the bottom so the 8' sheathing will cover more of the top top plate as typically here a 8' wall is studded to 97-1/8
  14. jasonN

    Dimensions to sheathing

    Sosnestor: Your two "Adjustment" rooms show as 7-5-1/8 and 4-5-1/8. I'm wondering, is this what everyone does on their plans? Thanks