JiAngelo

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Sorry, I was on mobile. Let me try and explain it better. Currently you have "room supplied by floor below" for your garage. Then you split your foundation for the rear walkout under strescore slab. This works fine for the front garage, but you want two floors on that side of the garage and "room supplied by floor below" dictates one floor at whichever height you set it. I was suggesting you add an invisible wall between front and rear garages like so, Change to foundation level and Open that rear garage room. Uncheck "Room supplies Floor for the Room Above" . Change your rough ceiling from 8" to 10' 1-3/4" (per your details above) In our area, garage floor is 12" below top of wall (TOW). So what I did above now looks like this. Based on your pictures, I changed the front garage room "Floor to SWT = 0" and added the glass panel door. One problem with this method is your rear garage places the slab on top of the wall, while the front garage slab is captured inside the foundation wall. The slab on top of the wall extends the siding down to the lower top of wall in that area. The problem compounds if your strescore slabs are like ours, 8-10" thick hollowcore slab w/ 2-4" topping poured over it to be level with garage floor and you change your floor definition here to include the 8" stresscore slab below the garage slab. I forget the steps that could eliminate this. Instead I looked back at the houses we've built with those strescore slabs and it appears I've always let the foundation supply the floor for the room above and then manually built the stresscore slabs underneath the garage slab and manually built the lower floor slab (including the brickledge details for the strescore slabs to bear on. Here's a quick example. I hope this helps.

You need an invisible wall defining the storage area separate from the garage. It will have a slab floor and the room under it will have its own floor.

Using walls create a 3' high room under the curve. Specify a gable roof at a slope that meets the entry wall where you want the curve to end. Strip down the roof plane with 0" overhangs and eaves. Then specify the curve and change roof plane materials to match your exterior finish. You will need auto roofs turned off to change the roofing material.

Using a polyline solid, make the box you want to subtract an inch or two bigger than the object it is being subtracted from. For instance, if the opening you need is 12 high x 80" long, in a box that is 24" deep, then make the box you will be subtracting 28" deep (extending 2" past the polygon to remain in the front & rear directions) This is the result after I added (4) "Fire 6" objects from Modern No.1 Fireplaces Library (evenly spaced to give the 2D fire depth.). Additionally, that same library has a couple of glass fireplaces that appear similar to what you've described. I added 3D "Flame 6" to both fireplaces. I really can't tell what you are trying to achieve from your description and PDF. From the Aquafire website, These images are 3 sided, not four sided This image is 4 sided, but lacks any glass detailing around the fireplace This image is see-thru, which is similar to what I drew using poly object subtraction .

Check "Higher Eaves Boxed" in your roof dialog and that will fix your issue. Your extension becomes the lowest eave on that side of the building.

Great, now the CPU will need weekly updates...

The text box is too narrow. Set it to auto width. And unless you speak Hindi change "shelfves" to shelves.

For #2, send the full plan @ 1'=100' to SK4 On SK4 select the oversized layout box and copy in place. Select one of the boxes and move it right or left until both boxes are side by side. Select bottom of left box and crop up to midpoint. Select top of right box amd crop down to midpoint. Keep left on SK4 move right to SK5. Now whatever you draw will appear on the proper page. To align the boxes on each page. Set the box on SK4 where you want it. Draw a control line starting at the upper right corner off at a 45 degree angle. Copy and paste in place to SK5. Move box on SK5 to match upper right corner with starting point of your line. (Draw a temp line on your plan so you know which items are appearing on SK4 vs SK5, and this will also let you know if you need to adjust the matchpoint location.) For #1, open up a cad detail box. Draw your "map scale with bar graph" to real world dimensions 1" = 25', 50', 75', 100', 200' Send this to each layout page at 1"=100' and it should match and serve as a map scale for your subdivision layouts.

What if you raise the ceiling height, mull the Unit then lower the ceiling height?

You beat me to it Eric. Additionally you can use a pony normal wall at 6" for the sill (turn off baseboard) and add thresholds to the panels to create a sill cap. Don't check railing and glass will appear above. Units can be mulled.

Looks good. Just need your beams, simpson straps & ties, and pier footings

The county GIS maps, if you are downloading them in dxf format contain the bearing and distance informations in the lines themselves. Turn on distance and angles for each line and set cad to decimal feet and quadrant bearings. Like @SHCanada2 said in Chief you draw real world dimensions. The send to layout whatever scale you desire. Here's a 34 lot subdivision I drew in Chief. The engineer and I traded dxf files back and forth during the course of construction. So now Chief includes all the sewer, water, gas lines. I was even able to get dxfs from the electrical company for all their transformers and conductor line routes.

Change the pitch on your new 3 walls to 2/12. That should keep you under your other windows. Slowly raise pitch until it is the max height you want it to be. (Pitches don't have to be whole numbers, FYI) Second, draw the room 2' to the right of where you want it to be. This will help you get the roof right, then you can move the walls 2' left once you like what you see. Third, keep the new room separate from the existing porch. You need to keep the original left wall a gable and the new left wall needs to be hipped. Keeping the existing front porch wall there makes sure the change in roofing stays aligned.

That's some next level thinking. I've always done it as @JKEdmo explained it. Thanks.