JiAngelo

Import as meters. 1.5m=1500mm

I think X8 opens earlier files

That was it. Thanks Jim.

Hello, I have a house I'm designing and when I select a wall the option to build framing is missing. On the left is a new plan and when I select a wall the option appears (circled in green) But in my current plan, the option is missing (circled in red.) Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

The earlier pictures were from the Murphy Door Company. Your problem is the assymetric nature of the doors on the wall. It would be nice if you.could balance the single doors to either side of the French. Then.come up with an asymmetrical pattern that appeals to you. Etsy and Pinterest are full of ideas. Many can be purchased as kits. Don't limit yourself to traditional 1x4 library panel designs.

Like this?

1. There's a post in the picture you provided. Remember that's when you couldn't explain it so you provided pictures to say it for you. 2. The code required backspan to cantilever span ratio is 2:1. This means you need 8' of joist inside the home to cantilever 4' (for example.) 3. Your cantilever ends have roof load additionally on them as well. Good luck.

I don't agree with the choices you made, but I think I understand why. To address what you have drawn, first, I extended your basement walls to under the stairs. Changed those outside walls to pony walls with rail top to header and post only on the corner. Added a floor in that room with grass as the covering. Showing floor at -28" temporarily. Then I selected these two walls. And lower the bottom in the stairwell to match the rest of the wall. Then I went to your stairwell and lower the tops of the same wall portions inside the stairwell This eliminates those walls in the stairwell, placing them below the stairwell floor so that you can still see stucco outside. Your gaps between top of lower stair and landing, and the one between raised foyer floor and rest of home are due to how you chose to build the home. I personally would have built the stairwell shaft level with first floor w/ balloon walls and used a stair landing. Then dealt with that outside portion of the stairwell a little differently, but to achieve the same results.

The orange needs to be floor1. It's room's floor supplied by level below. The yellow and blue are floor 0 with floor ~8" below stemwall. Step your blue as required.

How long is ridge beam span inside the building? How far is it cantilevering past the windows to support the prow? And is there a king post under the ridge beam splitting the window into separate units?

Build the shed dormer with the appropriate ceiling height and roof pitch that meets at or below the existing peak.

I think @Garybills is correct. 10° is about a 2/12 pitch. A cantilevered canopy over the front door and balcony.

My problem is the materials selected. For instance, James Hardie lap siding reports in linear feet, as does Certainteed's D5 Monogram siding. My contractors charge by the square foot. Changing all the walls to stucco or Certainteed Board & Batten would give me the correct square footage, but it is easier for me to add a 0 width layer for paint to the siding walls and get their square footage when necessary. I can ignore the paint color if I don't need it. (And its not a paint color anyone ever selects inside the home.)

Don't laugh, but I often add a 0 thickness layer to either side of my wall's framing and assign it Sherwin Williams colors. SW7100 for exterior and SW7000 for interiors. Material report gives me the square footage of the paint colors and I export it to an XLS that SUMIF's the paint colors to give me the overall total. I use @basketballman's method to verify.