kwhitt

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Everything posted by kwhitt

  1. I am trying to create a gable roof on the second floor of this house. The 1st image shows the situation where I have to create a wall with "Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom" - much like a dormer. When I pull the roof over to meet the siding (images 2 and 3), it creates a jog over my roof-cut wall which leaves a gap in the siding. I have no extra breaks in this roof plane, but Chief is automatically creating this jog. Image 4 is a plan view of the situation. The file is huge and does not belong to me, so can't upload. Anyone have any suggestion on what I can try? Thanks, Kevin
  2. Thanks Chop. At least I will be able to save an image if needed before it reverts back. I appreciate the video. Kevin
  3. Thanks Chop. I may just redraw them with a polyline solid. Kevin
  4. Thanks Chop. You realize I was kidding, right? In fact, I am still laughing about it. Kevin
  5. Ha ha ha... Guess I was being a little dense there. Thanks for wasting my time while searching for this feature Kevin
  6. Thanks Chop. Where do I find this "randomly display structural items"? Preferences? I looked in the camera view settings and prefs. Attached is the plan. CHF_Beacham_Shambaugh_REMODEL_07-17-20.zip
  7. Like the title states a rafter ridge has a break in it in camera view. It's definitely once piece. Anyone got any ideas on how to solve this one? Thanks!
  8. Chris - you are correct that the plans call for 2 x 6's; however, I have measured them from the inside and they used 4 x 6's 4ft O/C. Excellent suggestion regarding the structure near the full height windows. Thanks for the input. Kevin
  9. MoeGia - thanks for the interesting info and link. I will share with the client. Very helpful to know the T&G thickness. Kevin
  10. Mark - thanks for the suggestion, but it's not going to work in this case as there are too many converging angles and Chief will only place molding parallel to the floor which would be okay for the outer walls. I have found that I can pull up the attic walls the necessary distant and it seems to work. I'll probably do this at the very end once I've got the rafters/roof beams all set. Kevin
  11. Mark - that's clever and will save me tons of time. Thanks for the suggestion! Kevin
  12. Mark - thanks for the response. Yes, you are correct that the wall framing stops where it meets the roof beams/rafters and would have been framed in between rafters for hanging paneling (in this case). This is what is shown on the original plans. So, I guess using a p-solid in this instance isn't really cheating... I was hoping Chief would automate this in some way. Kevin
  13. Mick - You're probably right about it being 2 x 6 material (T&G). I'm going out there tomorrow to remove part of the soffit. That should tell me what I need to know. I took it for granted since i had the plans. I have measured the roof rafters/beams and they are 4' OC and are 4 x 6's. With these specs I am fairly certain they make up the roof structure. Besides, the cross-section shows 7'-3" to the bottom of the 4 x 4 beveled top plate. When I add in the top plate and height of roof beams to T&G, I get a total that equals my inside ceiling measurement of 98". This is why it was necessary for me to raise the roof by 11.5". Kevin I'll do some more digging tomorrow onsite. These older homes are fairly typical of our remodeling projects, but I haven't come across one built this way before. Thanks for your input.
  14. Steve - I think you're right about the tongue & groove being thicker. It never occurred to me that they would have used 2 x 6 as it's so expensive nowadays.
  15. In this view looking at the skylight, there does appear to be something going on above the roof beams and T&G.
  16. Hi Steve. I raised the roof that amount to match the interior measurements I took at the exterior wall up to the T&G. This was the only way I could get the proper ceiling height. I have attached the original set of plans from 1973 in the last post and was trying to recreate as closely as possible. As per the plans, there is no roof system above the beams. The exposed rafters are the roof system. I think I will attempt to manually draw the structure using roof beams tomorrow - just not sure how to "override" Chief's required roof structure panel - guess I'll try zeroing everything out. Thanks for you input. Kevin Attached is an photo of the interior with all it's existing beauty -
  17. Hi Mick. Thanks for chiming in. That's a really good question. Attached are the original plans from 1973 and there doesn't appear to be any insulation other than roof sheathing and felt paper. That said, it could be that the original client opted to have the beams exposed and they deviated from the plans as there's no mention of exposed beams anywhere in this set. These building techniques date back before my time and the construction is a bit alien. It's a really cool house though and our company was fortunate to get the remodeling contract - most of which is cosmetic and on the interior. I'd really like to represent it as closely as possible in Chief. Assuming I decide to tackle this with manually drawn roof beams, what do I enter into the roof structure layers? I am sure Chief is expecting something. Do I just zero everything out and draw my own? Will the walls know how to behave in relation to the roof sheathing? I am not really sure how to go about recreating this build in Chief most efficiently. Kevin PLAN_REDACTED_06-05-20.pdf
  18. Mark - I think that might be the route I'll take - especially as Chief isn't doing so well where the three roofs intersect at the core of the home.
  19. Thanks again for you time. I think this will be close enough for now. That said, would it work better if I were to draw the roof beams manually (as decorative beams)? Is this how most users go about it? I ask as Chief's videos highlight this method.
  20. Thanks again. Attached is the latest version of it. CHF_Beacham_Shambaugh_REMODEL_07-15-20.zip
  21. Brilliant. That did work; however, my walls (interior and exterior) have failed to meet the sheathing above the rafters. Attached is an image of the roof structure. Do I have the layers correct or should I change something to bring the wall up? Kevin
  22. dshall - I've done as you said and the rafters are now showing up - thanks. They are coming in white though and when I select all of them using the rafter tool, I have no option to reset the material to use default when opening all of them at once. Also, the few I have changed individually - when I switch to default material, they come in as the standard fir framing which I am guessing is driven by the default material under "framing". I can change it here, but then all of my framing will be birch, ebonized which I don't want. Also, the walls will not penetrate the beams as shown in the attached image. I'd appreciate any help with this. Kevin
  23. I should have also mentioned that it is someone with whom I've never interacted with on the forum.
  24. Thanks Michael. Understand, but almost certain I've got the right person as I've had dealings with him outside of the forum. If I'm wrong, blocking him isn't go to hurt anything.
  25. Glenn - thank you very much. I was looking on their user page for a way to block. I wonder if this will prevent the assault or if they're able to continue downvoting. Guess I'll find out soon enough. Thanks again! Kevin