winterdd

Man I tell ya, I really like the replies here on the forum. Doing the air gap of 36" between the garage slab and new floor joist system worked great!

3d solids for column bases and apply whatever material you want. I use a lot from Bueshel Stone Corp in the catalog.

11 hours ago, mtldesigns said:

Curious on how you will tie into the existing walls though.  Your model view shows block at the kitchen door, are you just going to put a ledger board there and bolt thru that block like a deck?  How about the other three walls, looks like that's wood framed?   

 

Is that a crawl space on the other side of that block?  Thinking ahead for you on the waste piping that will have to connect to existing.    

Ledger boards for sure.

9 hours ago, JiAngelo said:

Rob,

 

For the typical house/garage scenario, where the garage floor is 1' below the stem wall, unchecking on the foundation room's structure tab "Room Supplies Floor for the Room Above"  leaves the foundation garage floor where it was and creates another slab for the room above (because it is named garage).  If you then change that room above to be named study, for example, and set its floor height to 0, you have a framed floor drawn flush with the existing house and you can still see the slab at 1' below. 

For this "Garage to Living Space" question, it is a bit trickier because the top of stem wall for the garage area is ~2' below the house (your 3' is due to the additional distance of the house subfloor.)  Best way to show this building on the example above would be to make the foundation walls pony walls.  First I changed the Foundation garage floor to -2' and then I dropped the upper pony walls another -1'8" so that the garage foundation is about 4" above the existing concrete floor (this looks like your example picture above.)  I then selected the "Study" exterior walls and on the structure tab selected "Balloon Through Floor Below".  Turn on framing layers and Chief even draws the interior rim board for the balloon framing automatically.

 

 

All done with auto-framing on.

Nice!

Just now, HumbleChief said:

Rob, you could set up the foundation slab floor with multi layers using an air gap with framing above but always best to let the smart guys answer...

I have the builder's contact info and I can picture how it will be built BUT making it work in chief is what I am stuck on. Your method may be what I need.

14 minutes ago, KevinWaldron said:

Might caution you to check Subdivision Restrictions. Many of our local Restriction say garage must remain a garage. Easy enough for the homeowner not to know or care.

 

kw

This is in rural Alabama, no one cares haha. No engineering stamp required and they could have drawn these on a napkin for permits.

Hey guys, I am trying to wrap my head around this going from existing to new flooring. The garage steps down 36" and has 11' ceiling. The door coming into the garage is from the kitchen. They want to add two beds and a bath to the 24X24 garage which is enough space to do so. They want the floor of the garage raised to be flush with the main home which will still leave 8' ceiling height. This will basically be a false floor, kind of like a wood framed stage in a church I am thinking. What is the best way to tackle this with floor height settings in CA while leaving the garage slab where it is. I am waiting for a measurement of the existing door as we speak. The home is 2 hours away and the owner is assisting with measurements along with the plans that were drawn in pen from the 80's.

Thanks, I will give that a try.

Hey guys, main floor is 36" above grade and garage is dropped down 36". How can I get my auto wall caps on my foundation stem walls to move down without having to do molding polylines around the garage? Just trying to use CA benefits and cut down on the manual stuff. I hate molding polylines.

a little clean up work and manually adding the attic walls seemed to work.

Yeah, it is definitely on.

Hey guys, why aren't attic walls generated when you manually build every roof plane? Could a roof plane not be joined properly in one spot and throw off CA from building them?

Curious about this as well. Even if the truss company can build to suit the trey ceiling will it be as strong? I have a request to do this in a two story home right now.

2 hours ago, VHampton said:

 

Architect w/ civil engineering background, but don't take my post as anything other than general observations. Your design is do-able in any number of ways, and ultimately the engineer will decide. 

 

For example... They could opt to use a four sided ridge at the base of the oversized cupola. This would allow the upper "cupola" walls to bear down onto the 4 rectangular interlocking ridge beams which would spread the load onto the structural hips.

 

Very much like Michael has shown, and as others have suggested. The use of collar ties as shown in Michael's cross section would help support the ridge by means of posts.  

 

The bottom line is that there are always many ways to approach a structural solution. If truss manufacturing is local to your area, then by all means consider that as a possible cost savings method. 

 

All the best! 

 

 

 

 

What a perfect example of a pic.

2 hours ago, VHampton said:

Flitch plates bolted inside micro-lams can address the roof.

 

They can weld a moment connect at the ridge. They'll do the same welds at the base of the longer walls. 

 

The rafters by the Kitchen have no bearing wall.  They'll need a W section to handle the gravity loads (posted on both ends).

 

There's enough height however to get a tall beam in there. 

 

Engineer will probably size something 14 inches tall and at least 100 lbs per foot. 

 

By the way, even if the vaulted area gets collar tied (which it should) steel over the bar stools is a must have. 

 

 

 

That's some good info right there. Something tells me you are an engineer.

I agree, of course around here I send my plans of to be engineer stamped but I still try to avoid sending anything that is not able to be built or too complex.

Hey guys, just looking for some opinions. Any structural engineers here in the forum that could suggest a way this would be done structurally? It's a first for me and the client wanted it and also wanted it allow light inside the home. I am very curious how the opening in the vaulted ceiling planes would work. What would what the "tunnel" going thru the attic rest on? Very curious if this is even possible.

Can you develop complete plan sets thru HD? I have never researched it.

30 minutes ago, Gawdzira said:

Phew, I thought this was for Passover.

hahaha totally.

1 hour ago, StephenM said:

Thanks for the help everyone! Good to know for future, that it is something you have to manually do.

 

I am not sure how you set up the roof but when I do dutch gables they always auto build real nice for me. 

here is the saved file if you want it back......

648273596_ExistingHouse.plan

I couldn't get it to auto build without throwing things out of whack but just simply drew a roof plan over the front railing, made the eave heights the same and it came out great. I had to manipulate the roof connections and slide that gable wall back a tad to get it to look right.

did you click on the porch railing, go to roof settings and click dutch gable?

Found it, dang, previous versions OOB never made me dig this deep. Thanks guys, it was on 1/4" defaults

or this.........