winterdd

How can we modify what the schedule states for material? example below.....thanks guys.

Thanks guys.......everything is good so far with edit area tool.

Hey guys, I have a home that has been decided on to rotate to have the front of home face the water. This would require rotating it 180 deg. It is fully designed but no electrical or framing yet. Is there any precautions or nightmares that will arise I need to know about before I proceed? I mirror homes all the time but have never had to rotate after we get it designed. Thanks

8 minutes ago, tundra_dweller said:

If you used a room molding polyline (using the exterior room) to create your brick detail, the door openings will automatically cut your room moldings like base trim inside a room. I think if you use a molding line or molding polyline drawn manually, it will not cut automatically.

 

I could be wrong, but I think I remember this happening with a belly band under some low windows before. Even though the windows or their casing didn't quite reach the top of the band trim they still cut the molding.

I actually just applied a wall cap (sill 04) to the exterior 2x4 walls. I try and avoid drawing anything manually in CA.

On 4/17/2023 at 6:41 PM, TeaTime said:

The above replies are addressing the "how do I make a brick ledge profile look like the attached detail" question, and not 

--which is literally just the Brick Ledge Depth setting you have circled.

However there are some other things that need to be done to get it to do this correctly.

 

To match that detail I created Ponywalls on Floor 1, Siding-6 / Brick-6, ponywall Height Off Floor at 0", then defined Brick-6 to have a 11.5" Brick Ledge Depth and reduced the default 1" Air Gap to 1/2" to back it in under the siding.

 

When Building Foundation, set to Monoslab and hit Edit Default Slab Footing to 18" wide, 20" deep (+4" slab = 24" total).

But certainly, if you wanted bricks themselves to look like that, a custom molding profile is needed.

Got it to work pretty decent. I will detail the footer later. How come the fdn is doing this in front of the doors you think?

2 hours ago, TeaTime said:

The above replies are addressing the "how do I make a brick ledge profile look like the attached detail" question, and not 

--which is literally just the Brick Ledge Depth setting you have circled.

However there are some other things that need to be done to get it to do this correctly.

 

To match that detail I created Ponywalls on Floor 1, Siding-6 / Brick-6, ponywall Height Off Floor at 0", then defined Brick-6 to have a 11.5" Brick Ledge Depth and reduced the default 1" Air Gap to 1/2" to back it in under the siding.

 

When Building Foundation, set to Monoslab and hit Edit Default Slab Footing to 18" wide, 20" deep (+4" slab = 24" total).

But certainly, if you wanted bricks themselves to look like that, a custom molding profile is needed.

You are correct, just needed to know how to get that brick ledge depth right. Thanks!

I have been fooling with this for a little while and thought I'd ask. Which setting drops the brick ledge to show like the detail below at 11.5"?

mine                                                                                                                                  theirs

3 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

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Dang chop that was too easy, thanks

Hey guys, I have several security cams shown on my electrical plan. Is there a way to get them to come into the electrical schedule instead of the fixtures schedule?

On 4/3/2023 at 10:02 PM, rgardner said:

1.) Copy the folder and rename the folder not the plan and layout inside.

Do this all the time!

59 minutes ago, SabGroup said:

 

 

You can turn off the window casings and then create a pass-thru opening for the exterior casing and shutters. I would initially create the pass-thru next to the windows and then center the pass-thru with the two windows. The shutters will match the arch of the pass-thru.

Looks like you have a PC setup like mine. How do you like the Alienware X15 w/ CA X14?

Thanks guys, I will give it a try.

Hey guys and gals, in certain situations CA can automatically develop a shutter style as shown below in red. How can we do this manually?

Thanks Joe!

When you do not get the rotate grip when selecting all, is there a pull down in the menu to do so? This happens from time to time and I usually rotate one at a time. These are basic polylines and autos from the catalog.

Alcohol makes placing or creating dormers less stressful.

Trying to get it to match this....

Occasionally this happens and just wondered how we can prevent this when walls are placed under the stairs. The ceiling plane won't close and the wall stud is exposed.

4 hours ago, Chrisb222 said:

No offense but the cricket idea, IMO is ill-conceived no matter how it's implemented.

I hate them unless the home looks nice and it flows together well. Several of the homes in my neighborhood have them and they look nice from the ground level.

1 hour ago, Bob-Roraback said:

Hi Rob, can you extend the attic gable wall and roof out to meet that ridge?

I stand corrected, I see what you meant. Good solution Bob.......now how they will frame that attic wall into the ridge is a new question but it looks way better.

27 minutes ago, Bob-Roraback said:

Hi Rob, can you extend the attic gable wall and roof out to meet that ridge?

I tried that, and because of the overhang it wouldn't work. However, I may not be seeing what someone else see's that is a solution. The client and I both know so I am having him review it with his builder to see if we should change something or if it can be built on site and not a big deal.

13 minutes ago, HumbleChief said:

Rob, I think you have decide on looking ugly from where? From a 3D Chief Full Perspective Overview, or Goggle Maps? Or from the ground where everyone will actually see or not see the roof 'cricket'? A simple horizontal roof plane 'cricket' will solve the water problem and should be virtually impossible to see from the ground.

That cricket would have to be above that ridge to be functional, correct? That is what I was saying would look ugly.

Guys, this is unique and I am wondering how this can be rectified and not look ugly. Can the builder construct some sort of roof cricket here for shedding water?

8 minutes ago, Chrisb222 said:

 

I keep everything to 1" or 1/2" except in rare cases where 1/4" is sometimes necessary, for example dimensioning a 6x6 deck post. 

 

As a rule, esp with framing, I would never put 16ths on a plan. That just seems like a good way to catch a nail in your tire. Or other "paybacks." 

I hear ya, lol. As long as the foundation and main floor dims match it seems fine to me. I do what I am asked to make it easier in the field.

Have any of you guys ever had a request from the builder to round dimensions to the nearest 1/2", 1" etc just so there are not any crazy fraction dimensions? Sometimes it is inevitable to get those 16th's dims. I can see how they wouldn't want to pull a tape measure to those. Rounding really cleans up the drawing but can it be a bad thing? I mean any design software allows this option.