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Everything posted by ACADuser
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The attached plan has an existing truss roof that I am attempting to add a conventionally framed addition with open rafters. CA will frame the main part but will not frame the roof over. When I manually replicate rafters over the existing trusses the frame through the trusses. I added a Truss plane but no luck. If I trim to the valley boards CA added the tails penetrate the roof plane. In a real roof over the existing roof remains and the rafters die into a 2x6 laid flat on the existing plywood. http://homebuildingaddition.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/IMG_0028.jpeg Can this be done? Lefeber Addition.plan
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Why We Have So Many Questions On These Forums
ACADuser replied to Joe_Carrick's topic in General Q & A
Oh you should take Glenn up on his offer. Will save you a ton of headache. -
Why We Have So Many Questions On These Forums
ACADuser replied to Joe_Carrick's topic in General Q & A
Imagelit this is good place to start http://www.chiefarchitect.com/getting-started/ Start with the House Design. The setup seems like a lot of work but after you do it save the plan file as a template file. The setup is necessary and will save you work & headache down the road. Your set up will change over time & with different houses but you can save the template file again to update your base template and save to non-standard houses if you thing your will build that again. Your template file will mature with you as you learn more tricks & develop your standards. The template file will save you a ton of man hours in the future. But don't worry about getting everything set in the file at first as your knowledge grows the file will change. Just the wall types & some basic settings are enough to get your started. I would share my template file but I use inches You will want to develop your own standards though. Define the ceiling height for the first floor, you can not define other floors until you create them. Wall definitions will give you a fit at first but modifying the default walls is a must if you want them to behave as you want them to. Actually it is easy to draw a box or two and see the 3d views come to life BUT to get what YOU want takes some homework. That's all the time I have to spare this morning. BTW I'm a newbie too. Just a little ahead of you. -
Why We Have So Many Questions On These Forums
ACADuser replied to Joe_Carrick's topic in General Q & A
Well said Gheppto I use the Sledge hammer approach, just keep pounding on it (CA) until it submits or breaks. Great help from the form folks, Thanks -
Holy Crap Batman! And with no Auto Update for layouts or an "Update All Layouts", what if you changed a few walls? I'm gonna tell him it can't be done at this time. (:
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New to the framing aspect of CA so I see the walls have a label. In this house I have about 80 walls on the 2nd floor. The GC asked if I could print out the wall framing elevation view for every wall. I have not found a tool for this. Ideally a landscape print out on 8.5x11 sheets would be nice, just like you get from the truss company. I have no wish to create a new Layout file & send the view of some 130 walls to each layout. Has anyone tackled this before? Thanks
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Well yes it should. Just started playing with some framing today so I was searching post.
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Sorry Glen no slight intended. I just don't see a clear explanation of how Chief works. It appeared you had a similar problem. Sorry for my misinterpretation of your post. I don't draw/create the 2nd floor first. I don't always know where the floor height need to be before I create the floor plan. So the defaults & set up are only a guesstimate. The plan is dynamic until the concrete is being poured. I need to know how to raise & lower rooms and sections of a house without screwing up the remainder of the plan. I spent 20 minutes with a closet 2nd floor where the closet & entry to the master bedroom were even with the main living area and the master was dropped 2' along with the master bath & shower. The garage under all this space was all one elevation. Every time I tried to adjust the closet floor the master bedroom ceiling would drop. I tried everything I could think of. (no auto roof or foundation on) Well the adjoining unit was a near mirror and it's closet was correct. I used the eyedropper tool to copy the room data & apply it to the other closet & a miracle happened. That changed the closet without messing up the master bedroom. It's just extremely frustrating that this remain a mystery to me an others.
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Some cautions: http://www.forbes.com/sites/gordonkelly/2015/08/02/windows-10-vs-windows-8-vs-windows-7-whats-the-difference/
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CA should (IMO) show a complex example to demonstrate the inner workings so the USER can understand well enough to make full use of the software. When someone of Glen's experience can not use the DBX for floors to solve what appears to me as not so unusual a condition then the help file & the video's have fallen short. Anyone that builds, creates, or attempts to draw a house on a non level site or tri-level house and is more that a simple BOX will run into issues with the floor & foundation DBX. I only use 2d autocad so I can not speak for the other software's. So no one is asking for examples for ALL conditions just more than is being offered. I'm not jumping on you Perry, my frustration is with CA as I too have spent may hours chasing the illusive settings that will put the floor where it need to be & get the foundations at the correct heights. Currently I turn off automatic roof & foundation. I Build foundation once & modify I from there. I open the zero floor level & uncheck all the Floor boxed as I never have a basement or crawl space with a floor. In the first floor I check "Floor under this room" and uncheck the other two boxes. That's my basic starting point. And to those watching that are not aware be sure to uncheck DEFAULT when changing settings, not doing so can cause changes else ware you did not expect. Interesting thread, I hope those experts will set us all straight on how to use the Room DBX properly.
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What i find appalling is that such a mature software does not have a clear & concise guide on how to properly use the dbx to control the floor & ceilings. The information only addresses the most basic of conditions.
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When my projects are too large I use E size sheets. Everyone hates them but better than breaking up the floor plan with match lines. 1/8 scale is some times the answer but requires many enlarged details to see some of the important stuff.
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I think CA ignores CAD paper space layouts, all 22 sheet.. All you will see is Model space. The model space tab only. What I do is block all imported cad so I can turn on & off. If you do not block make sure you keep that CAD import on it's own layers. This way you can manipulate the cad stuff.
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As far as I can tell you can only import Model Space into the PLAN file. Layouts in CA are not like paper space in ACAD. What you get in CA are copies of views placed in CA layouts. Some of these copies update automatically like from plan view. All other views do not appear to update reliably. So without an "Update All Views: command it is a PITA to step through 20 layouts to activate the view & close to refresh that view in the layout. The text from ACAD needs to be edited so you can copy & paste into a CA Add text dialog box. No direct copy & paste of text objects. It can be tedious. That is what my understanding of the situation is. Maybe some experts will improve on my methods so far.
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Wow Thanks. That should keep me busy.
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Very nice Jon. Thanks. I'm more into structural elements of the building so I'm struggling with the interior design aspect. With 3D views the old 2D symbols on the plans are not cutting it. Customers are wanting more.
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I have an Architect that I do a lot of drafting for & he is complaining about the furniture. He only likes modern furniture & today said don't put any more grandma's furniture in the model, it's got to be modern looking. 3DWarehoue doesn't seem to have a lot, searching modern furniture. Do the symbols found outside Chief use more drawing space? Thanks
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I think what Mick offered will work for me. If all else fails I will have a backup on disk.
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Mick, Sorry for the late reply. Search "subway" in the catalog. The "White Tile"
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Thanks for the tips I forgot to mention that i already have a Samsung 850 PRO 500GB in my existing computer & it helps but it is SATA II so the new mother board will help there. The Disk shown above will be the DATA storage & the SSD will have Windows & CA & Autocad on it, along with their critical files. I am running Windows 7 Pro currently. I don't have the original disk as the computer was a Dell and I would like a clean install to clean the crap out of the registry. Maybe I don't need to worry about that, just plug the SSD with Windows 7 in it and start the new computer. Will definitely max out the RAM & look into the VID card.
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OH, didn't think about doing that. Do you have a special "Raining Wall Definition" with this setback as an "AirGap"? I guess I need to dig into the No Material Invisible layer. I'll try to do it in the morning as it's 8:30 PM and that is Beer Time, Thanks
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Looking at this part list for my first attempt at a build your own computer. So for you hardware nerds, Any parts that you would suggest changing. I was trying to stay under $1600 Base Total: $1425.09 Promo Discounts: -$5.00 Mail-in Rebates: -$60.00 Total: $1360.09 No mouse yet but I am used to my old MS 5 button Laser Mouse, Lot of the new ones are too small for my hand. PS I already own a Samsung 850 PRO 500GB with Windows 7 Pro on it in my old computer which will be my primary drive. Component Selection Base Promo Shipping Tax Price Where CPU Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor $328.99 $328.99 SuperBiiz CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $35.98 ($10.00) $25.98 OutletPC Motherboard MSI Z97A GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 $179.89 OutletPC Memory Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory $99.99 FREE $99.99 Newegg Storage Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive $89.88 $89.88 OutletPC Video Card EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card $229.99 ($20.00) FREE $209.99 Newegg $20.00 mail-in rebate Case Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case $129.99 ($10.00) FREE $119.99 Newegg $10.00 mail-in rebate Power Supply Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $79.99 ($25.00) FREE $54.99 Newegg + USD $5 off w/ promo code EMCAVNR23, ends 7/30 $20.00 mail-in rebate Optical Drive Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer $18.75 $18.75 OutletPC Operating System Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro OEM (64-bit) $131.65 $131.65 OutletPC Keyboard Thermaltake eSPORTS Meka G1 Wired Gaming Keyboard $99.99 $99.99 Mechanical Keyboards
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OK with this simple railing i found it simpler to create using short columns a p-solid for rail. I deleted the 2nd floor railings & room but kept the roof. I need to study decks and see of that is a better way to handle balconies when the railing is set back from the edge. Wish I had more time to study but as you can see I'm working on Saturday & Sunday for the past three weeks. Thanks
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Actually the deck is there only because the railing create it. The roof is what I want but if you lower the roof an inch or two the railing disappears. If you select the railing & say No Room the railing disappears.
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Typically I want the columns set back from the edge of a porch. Then on the Balcony above the railings also need to be set back away from the edge. In the case of my current project, plan attached, the balcony is a flat roof with railings on top. Therefore I want plenty of overhang. I like using railings as the are quite versatile but they restrict the room perimeter too much for overhangs. I tried to have a room with a room integrated within it but it's not working well. Anyway what method best suite you in the case you need on overhang? I'll be away for the computer for a few hours. Thanks Edgewood.plan