SNestor

FWIW... I used a PC for 25 years...(loved windows 7). They work great and most of the people on this site use a windows based PC. However, thanks to my son and the fact that Chief introduced the MAC version just when I needed a new computer...I now use a MAC. I love it. It works. It's simple. All my devices sync together without me having to become an IT Engineer. It's a bit different...I did experience a bit of a learning curve. But YouTube has all the help you will ever need. So...if you are busy, it might not be something you will want to do. However, if you have a few weeks to learn the differences I think you will be happy. Also...there is no doubt you could purchase a more "powerful" PC...even build it yourself. I'm not a techie...so, for me, I just wanted to buy something that would work. My MAC is simple to use, and powerful. Love it.

Yep...I know I can do that...and actually, I've already done it. Just wondered if there was some issue with my plan or some specification that caused the base molding not to attach to the "furred wall".

Yea...that works, but it also creates a "room definition" between the back of the furred wall and the foundation wall. I was trying to avoid that... Maybe there isn't a way to avoid this?

Wondering why the baseboard...which is part of the "room" specification does not move out and attach itself to the "furred wall" surface. I experimented with a simple plan with furred basement walls...and the base molding did move from the surface of the foundation wall to the surface of the "furred wall"...but it doesn't in the attached plan. So...obviously I've done something. I know I could easily attach base with a molding polyline...but, I'm just curious as to why it's not working...and what I've done wrong. I've attached the plan... Thanks! 7050 Plan.plan

I'm in Westfield...which is just north of Carmel, IN

I know this topic has been covered to some degree. I've seen many posts wishing Chief would add this capability. Given the current state of possibilities with Chief...if I wanted to create a contemporary home design that had tilted/angled walls such as shown in the attached picture...how can it be done? Is the simplest (or only) way possible would be to use some form of p-solid or primitive shape? Thanks

Joe...so, do you have to link all the plan detail files to each new project plan? Does this slow things down? What about the comment that plan files and layout should be in the same directory? Do you copy the plan detail files into the new project file every time? Thanks.

Yes...understand about the slowing down. Just used 2 in order to help show a client the potential shadow cast by a 15' tall tree. Thanks all for the tips.

Thanks...I found them. Had to download the bonus catalog. Appreciate the help!

Are there 3d Trees in the catalog...I did a quick search...nothing comes up. Are they in the bonus catalog?

Just wondering...should trees cast shadows? Mine don't...wondering if it's a setting that I don't know about? thanks.

Can you elaborate? If you use PS to create beams....do you also create the ceiling of the porch with a PS? What about the porch slab? I gather you do not define the space as a room?

I'm a bit confused by the wall type "divider wall". This is an OOB default wall type. It is defined as 1" thick. However, when I use the wall to define a porch wall...it automatically changes to a 3 1/2" interior wall type. Why does it change? Test plan attached... divider wall question.plan

Joe, I was experimenting with this method. If you create the main floor on level 2...and the garage in on this level...then, how do you create the garage floor. In my test plan...when I named the room "garage" it created a slab...but the slab extended through the frame wall...as a wood floor would do. How do you create a typical slab floor...would you have to create the garage slab manually with a p-solid?

Yes...and also the "Stepford Craftsman" has taken over every subdivision. It appears that "good design" is determined by how little masonry is installed on the house.

"Professional" just means government control...less is more when it comes to regulation by so called experts. Where I live the "professional" builders and their "professionals" designers are ruining the landscape. Nothing but "Stepford" houses...all the same. Yuk.

Yep...I figured it out. Thanks for the help Joey!

Are you referring to Joey's method? Is there a better way?

So...how do you show the foundation in elevation? Do you use a cad polyline?

So...if you have a walkout basement wall (daylight side)...and this wall is a pony wall...with brick veneer that extends up about 30" from finish grade with lap siding above...how do you draw the foundation wall on the same level? The foundation wall needs to extend to below frost line...in my area that is about about 36" or so from finished grade. So...there are (2) walls in the same plane. The foundation wall may also be a pony wall as it also could also have some brick veneer. I suppose this is where putting the basement on level 1 is the cure? Section attached...

Very nice solution. Thanks for the video also...it always helps to see these creative solutions put to work.

Uhh...yea, user error. I figured it out. I'm actually not 100% sure...but I think I had "painted" a brick material on to the walls. I think this screwed things up. Either way...I opened a new new plan and it works as designed.

Yea...that's what I'm trying to do but it's not working. I'll post a plan in a bit

I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong... Looking at a building exterior wall elevation...I'm trying to use a wall material region to cut through just the brick veneer layer of the exterior wall. However, the region disappears and shows up way inside the building and it does not cut just the brick. So...I guess my questions is...is a "wall material region" only to be used on the interior side of a wall? If that is the case...is there a way to "cut" the masonry veneer on the exterior side of a wall? What I am trying to do is create a brick arch above a window using a symbol created with solids...and then place a piece of wood trim (using a WMR) between the bottom side of the brick arch and the top side of the window. In the attached photo I used a Solid...however, if the solid isn't deep enough the brick veneer stick through and hides the Solid (trim). In reality I only want this Solid "trim" to be 2" thick which recesses it behind the brick...because the solid doesn't replace the veneer.

Thanks.