SNestor

3 hours ago, wjmdes said:

 

Yep, that is where it is, the problem is that if you have built a complex roof manually and the client wants to go to a higher pitch, you have to start ALL OVER or it will be incorrect.

No...you can select each roof plane with the same pitch in plan view...or in 3D view.  Then, open the edit dialogue, click "lock pitch"...then change the "baseline" height the amount you want to raise or lower them.  It will raise or lower the roof planes.  No need to start over.

17 minutes ago, DRAWZILLA said:

Thanks Steve nice one

Thanks!  Much appreciated!

Very short video on how to make custom door/window lintels.  

I made you a video...hope it helps!

If you lock the "baseline"...yes, the rafter will pivot around this point.  Of course...you need to know where the "baseline" is.  It's probably not where you think it is.  

It's here...see diagram below;

Why not create a framing overview...select 3D in the top menu bar...choose an elevation (like right side, or left side).  Then, create a "cad detail from view"...and edit and annotate.  

Just a quick idea...I've actually never done this before...but give it a try and let us know if it works for you. 

More than likely the door to the conference room is not in the same defined "room" as the cabinets.  If the cabinets and the door are both in the "conference room"...you should see both.  

Here's another method...kind of like what Eric suggested.

- drop the garage "rough ceiling" height -32".  (the elevation should now be 109.125)

- Turn on your reference display.

- draw walls (siding-6) under the walls above

- Open the dialogue box for these walls and make them invisible...and no locate if you choose.

- Now...click in the room created by the new invisible walls.  Click "shelf ceiling".  Make sure the "rough ceiling" height is 109.125"

You should now have a flat ceiling in the garage...with a ceiling of 2x6 created under the floor above that extends over the garage.  

You can now lower the 6/12 roof over the single garage door down -32"...or so.  You may only want to lower it -28" as there really isn't a lot of room above the garage door itself for a header.

See pics below...

Draw walls, make them invisible...

In this area...create a "shelf ceiling"

1 hour ago, mpatalsky said:

I'm trying to drop the garage down 32" so the shed roof will not interfere with windows.  When I do that it drags the second floor down with it.  When I go back up & raise the second floor back to where it belongs it pulls the garage back up.  What am I missing?!?!?!?!?  Lot 13 111819.plan

Why not just drop the garage floor down...and move the roof down.  This will create a "clipped" ceiling in the garage over the overhead door...which you may not want.  If this is the case...do what Eric suggested above.

9 minutes ago, WildcatFury said:

Thanks Everyone for your responses. As requested I am including some pictures of different views and hopefully a little more explanation. As you can see in the Perspective framing overview and the Perspective floor overview there are walkout walls and foundation walls that have exterior finishes. The Perspective Framing Overview is in the 3D Framing Set and the Perspective Floor Overview is in the Camera View Set. When I did the Foundation Plan View I changed to the Foundation Set and as imagined turned off the layers i did not want to see. In this view (Foundation Plan View) I have the following layer sets checked:

Footings

Footings, Deck Posts

Footings, Post

Foundation

Walls, Foundation

Walls, Main Layer Only

 

I went back to all of the wall types I am using to make sure that the Exterior layers, main layer and interior layers are separated.

 

As you can see in the Foundation Plan View I am still seeing the wall interior and exterior layers and the plan is not showing the walkout wall footers. (This maybe is where I need to create the footers for the walkout walls as pony walls)?

 

What I am trying to achieve is a foundation view like @robdyck showed.

 

Hope this additional info helps.

 

 

Create a 3D view...such as a Framing Overview.  In the 3D view...turn off the layers you don't want to see...such as all the framing layers.  Then...using the surface delete tool, delete the surfaces of walls you don't want to see, such as the wood framed walls that sit on top of the concrete foundation walls and any other walls you have on the interior...or, if you put the interior walls on a unique layer you could just turn them off.  

See pics below with steps assigned.

Step #1: Create a Framing Overview 3D, open layer management for this view...turn off framing layers.

Step #2: Result of Step #1

Now...use the "delete surface tool"...delete surfaces you don't want.

Result:   Send to layout

16 minutes ago, robdyck said:

I am referring specifically to a 3D view of the foundation only which I believe was the intent of the OP.

Ok...I’m with you on the 3D view. 

23 minutes ago, carowe said:

I have been struggling to do a frameless glass bypass shower door with barn door style hardware.  I tried using the barn door and changing the door to a glass panel, but cannot configure another glass panel on the hardware. Does anyone have suggestions on how to do this?  Thx in advance!

How about a picture to help us all out? 

I gather you are trying to have the sliding panel mounted with wheels on the top of the glass panel and sliding along a bar type track?  

Maybe like this?

11 minutes ago, NPCCJared said:

Community,

 

I am trying to find a way, if it is even possible, to change the names of my levels from Foundation, 1st Floor to lets say Basement, Main Level. Any help out there?

Changing the names where?

Are you talking about in the project browser?  If so...I don't think it's possible to change.

7 minutes ago, robdyck said:

This is going to suck... The pony walls don't have physical layers that can be displayed on separate layers. Also, the upper and lower portion of a pony wall can't be separated to display on separate layers. The only way (that I know of) is to delete all the unwanted surfaces, then save a picture from that view. Those surfaces will always re-generate, meaning any change will require you to repeat the process (lame).

For this reason, I stopped including 3D foundation views on walk-out foundations. 

No...this is incorrect...sort of.  You can control the display of pony walls using "PLAN VIEWS".  I did a video on the subject...check it out.  

2 hours ago, WildcatFury said:

I am trying to create a foundation plan in a 3d view but when the walls are shown they are also showing interior and exterior wall layers. I have checked Walls, Main Layer Only and unchecked Walls, Layers on the active layer display but that does not seem to work. Any thoughts?

 

Note: This is a walkout on one end, that is why some exterior wall layers are showing.

Are you editing the layerset controlling the 3D view...or the floor plan layerset?  You need to modify the layers that control the 3D view.

Actually...you should post your plan or at the very least a few pictures so we know what you are dealing with.  Thanks!

7 minutes ago, ChiefuserDRB said:

Has anyone had issues changing exterior wall materials? I am confused as to why some of my walls will not change from the default blue siding when adjacent and connecting walls have no issues.

Have you used the "spray can" to "paint" the walls?  If so...you will have to open the wall dialogue box...and go to the materials tab...select "exterior wall surface"...then click the "select material" button...then, make sure you have "library materials" selected...and at the bottom you will see a check box, "use default material".  Check this box...

The wall should return to the siding you set as the default material.  

This is occurs when you "paint" a material instead of opening the wall and modifying the "wall type".  

2 hours ago, DRAWZILLA said:

It would be really nice if soffits would frame, I need framing here or I will have to manually fix up the sections.  Nice video Steve, this will work for most people.

I attempted to accomplish this design so it would frame.  CA doesn’t make it easy.  In fact it was so difficult that I just gave up.  
 

I don’t think we get paid enough for drafting plans to have to spend maybe an hour just to draw a front porch.  I think you could draw a section in 15 minutes to detail whatever is required.  

New video...

18 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

I've got a set of PDF's I'll be converting for a house that has 8 different elevations of stone/brick veneer. I was going to go the CA pony wall route, but thought twice and now I'm thinking maybe for this project a wall material region would be much faster.

Haven't given it much thought but are their any known cons to going the material region route?

I will not be needing the foundation to be accurate as I know the frustration of trying to wrangle the stem walls into submission will drive me to a cad detail/p-solid method.

I do pony walls like this all the time using "walls"...not material regions and don't have any problems.  Yes...the foundations can be quirky...but, it doesn't take long to force them into submission.  Seems like wall material regions would be just as much trouble given the fact they don't join at corners.  

4 hours ago, joey_martin said:

Here is what I do...

 

I layout the first floor...obviously....and when I am ready for the second floor, I set the second floor ceiling height to the height I want my knee walls. In this sample I set them to 54". So that means my entire second floor will have 54" ceiling heights, and that is OK with me. 

 

Now, when I am ready to start laying out my rooms up there, I TURN OFF auto roof build. Now I can move those ceiling heights up to 97" and my roof stays where it's suppose to be.

 

Listen to Joey...he knows what he’s doing.  Great tip Joey...

4 hours ago, robdyck said:

If you have a fill type for most layers, after auto-detailing a section you can group select all those standard polylines and combine into one polyline, then fill as desired. You'll still need to make some shape adjustments.

I just did a quick one, took me about 30 seconds.

That is a great tip Rob....thanks!

1 hour ago, kwhitt said:

Thanks again for the tips.  I've learned quite a bit from your YouTube Channel too.  Kevin

Thanks!  I'm always happy to hear someone got something from my YouTube Videos.  

On 11/11/2019 at 7:14 PM, Designer1 said:

Interesting, looks like the stair tool is more particular then I thought.  Yeah Im not sure if it would change things if I changed it to landings, I will try that.  I wish chief could update its stair tool, its virtually unchanged but minor tweaks since version 9.

 

Thanks so much for everyones replies and help!

The "stair tool" is an antique when compared to the rest of the software.  This tool has needed to be "updated" for many, many years...I'm not holding my breath that it'll be "fixed" anytime soon...I gather it's just not that important or maybe just too big of a project for Chief.  

50 minutes ago, kwhitt said:

Steve - I got it to work, but you're right about the corners.  Playing around with room dividers at the corners is a lot of work, think it will be faster to place these newels manually.  Thanks again for the all the help.  Kevin

No doubt...using newels like these in a railing wall is fast...but, the corner construction is weird.

The time you'd spend messing around trying to get them to work you could drop in the newel symbols exactly where you'd want them...attach the seat moldings and be done with it.      

Also, moldings don't allow you to drop a "doorway" into them...so, to create any opening you may want to have you will have to break the molding where you want the opening...select that section and select "remove molding from selected edge".

Correct.  If you find the origin is off just a bit...just right click on the symbol in the library and “tweak” it...then just click the newel in a 3D view and “replace from library”...with a few tweaks you’ll get it right.