SNestor

20 minutes ago, solver said:

Maybe attach a plan with your modified pony wall that we could then add to the library.

I can’t attach a plan - not at my computer.  However- trust me it has nothing to do with a plan or template.  Just watch the video...and attempt to duplicate it on your system and report back.  Thanks!

I'm not really sure how to describe this issue so I have attached a video which better explains it.  

Here is video link:  

I'm wondering if any of you out in Chief world can recreate what I am experiencing with Chief Pony Walls.  

- Create a pony wall

- save the wall to the library

- in the library, right click on the saved wall - open it and change one of the materials.

- Now...draw the pony wall in plan.  It should appear defective...see pic attached. 

Watch the video to see exactly what I do and what happens.  Maybe I have a video card issue?  Wondering if someone could try to recreate and report back.  

Thanks and Merry Christmas to all!

I don't think so...

What you are seeing is a picture...which is associated with the block material.  You could do it by placing a very thin P-Solid on top of the wall...then, find a picture on the web of the top course of concrete block...edit it with a photo editing software so that it repeats correctly when you paint it on a surface.  

Or...just live with the limitations and move on down the road. 

On 12/16/2019 at 9:22 AM, Hammer7 said:

Good morning,

 

I'm trying to repair a dormer.  I just switched from Home Designer to Chief and I'm working on learning many new available features and trying to learn all I can as quickly as I can.  There are some lines in this sample screenshot that were created at some point and I do not know what they are or how to select and manipulate them.  Any help that anyone has in there identifications and adjustment is appreciated.  Thank you

I've done a few videos on Dormers that you may want to watch...they aren't specific to your dormer but you might learn something. Just FYI.  

Looks like Eric has once again been very helpful...thank you Eric!

11 hours ago, tinyhouseguy said:

Eric, I gave back when I answered your questions. Please quit giving me a hard time for you have never SOLVED anything for me.         

There is no one that gives more to this forum than Eric.  I think your comment was quite rude and uncalled for.  Nasty isn’t going to get you help in the future.  

2 hours ago, MN_JohnH said:

I wonder why my second floor loft flooring is sticking through the roof and can be seen on the outside of the building?

I would just raise your roof plane...even the windows in the dormer are sticking out above the roof plane.  

I am curious though as to why the floor finish is building out to the face or the "log" veneer...seems odd.  Maybe someone can answer that. 

4 hours ago, CElder said:

All of a sudden, recently, my wall materials are freaking out on me!  I've attached a sample plan file that I had just started working on.  My default settings are for siding exterior, drywall interior of exterior walls and drywall both sides of interior walls.  I couldn't make it happen this time but occasionally, both sides of an interior wall will come up with siding on them.

 

Along the same lines, notice the siding on the two walls where a porch is indicated.  The siding changes to a different color and profile when I create a porch room on the outside.

 

Can anyone offer any insight on why this is happening?

 

Thanks!

crazywalls.plan

Casey...

Looks like you have a couple of problems...

 - Like Javatom states above...the exterior "wall type" is defined with a "zero" thickness.  Change to at least 1/2" for siding.

- The walls that separate the garage from the house appear to have been "painted".  The siding is not the "default" material.  You should open the wall for specification...select the "exterior wall surface"...click "select material"...select "plan materials"....scroll to the top of the list and select "default".  Repeat for the interior wall surface.  

Or...just delete the walls and draw in new interior walls.

SEE PICS ATTACHED...

- EXTERIOR WALL TYPE:

WALL BETWEEN HOUSE/GARAGE:

Looks like you drew the landing on the first floor...

You need to open the landing DBX and change the the height of the landing.  Uncheck "Auto Adjust Height"....

2 hours ago, DH7777 said:

In AutoCAD, I can grab an object or objects, pull my cursor with the object in tow, and type in a specific measurement (1in., 2ft. etc.) hit enter and the object snaps into the position in the direction I want. I understand the point to point command chief has, but that is not what I need because that doesn't allow me to move the object the way I just explained. To be specific: I am trying to move a complete second floor 1/2" to line up with the first floor(it is off) I do not want to move wall by wall into position.  Also on a side note: Is there an offset command in chief? Any help would be great! Thanks...

I actually use Transform/Replicate most of the time...I have a "hot key" assigned...so, for me it's 0,0...tab to the X and/or Y field...enter distance.  Done. 10 seconds or less....

Select the objects - begin moving - press the TAB key - enter distance.  

Available soon...a complete Chief Architect Library of "Screened Porch" railing panels, screen doors, wall types and materials.

This package will be available via Dan Baumanns Chief Experts Academy.  https://www.chiefexpertsacademy.com/store

Here's a sneak peek video...

I bought Camtasia for 100.00...it was a Mac deal they offered.  Well worth it.  Makes creating videos a breeze.  

11 minutes ago, ChiefUserBigRob said:

i've seen several people able to record a session of CA to show examples and such. is there an app for this or is it something included in the program?

I use Camtasia...but there are a numbers of programs that can do it.  

I recently created a video on this topic...

Yes...Jenna the answer lady 

26 minutes ago, wjmdes said:

 

If I wanted to draw everything by hand I would still be using AutoCad or just get the board out of the closet.

I think you will find the stair tool will make you want you to take a hammer to your computer.  It’s a tool that needs a complete overhaul.  

1 hour ago, wjmdes said:

 

If that is the only answer then this would be a bug.......

It’s not a bug...it’s just how the software works.  You could have created the p-solid risers in less time it took you to ask the question. 
 

All that said...the stair tool in Chief is ridiculously weak...and I don’t see huge improvements on the horizon.  So...we will all be cursing this tool for some time to come. 

I have a 5 year old iMac...no problems.  Well...a little bit slow...but hey, it's 5 years old.  Sounds to me like something else is wrong...but, I'm no computer expert.

3 hours ago, DianeP said:

Is there a way to have the exterior molding to have a plumb cut or ,alternatively, a horizontal cut that follows the beam line?  I drew a line and  changed it into a 3d molding polyline.   

I just did a quick drawing...I'm using a "frieze" board...and letting Chief place automatically.  Seems to work fine.  

Why do it manually?

12 minutes ago, solver said:

It's always helpful to have images of what you want as there are so many ways of building and so many ways of doing things in Chief.

 

This shows 2 corner boards both auto applied. One wider shorter one for the frieze, and one as a normal corner board below.

 

This looks messy in anything but standard view because of the extra lines.

 

Fantastic tip Eric!  Amazing...

2 hours ago, wjmdes said:

Yes,....but for most situations, it is the case.  Either way, I started a spreadsheet that will give me baseline above my entered top of wall height, and stud size and rafter size.  Four years of calculus and I only use trig!  I appreciate you making me think.

 

And at the end of the day, being a little off will never be noticed when they build it, but it bugs me.

How accurate were we in paper/pencil days?  Get it close...draw a line and use a rich text box to state the "plate height".  Then...move on to the next problem.  I don't think we get paid enough to spend all day trying to get Chief to build a rafter within a sixteenth of an inch where it's "supposed" to be....

Maybe I'm alone on this?  

17 minutes ago, DzinEye said:

Yep... you're missing something...      Under 'options' you can constrain to a single door panel of any size just as with any other door.
Not quite sure why you mention it won't work because the 'track is above the door opening' ?... barn door track hardware is supposed to be above the door opening.  Usually there's just a small guide at the bottom.

The glass wall and a barn door does work...sort of.  

Using a glass wall and a barn door works if both ends are enclosed by walls...but, if you have a glass shower pony wall like shown in the pics below...the corner becomes an issue because the glass wall (for the door) won't join with the glass pony wall at the corner properly.  Well...I've found it difficult.  Maybe it's possible...

If you use a "fixture" like the one I created (attached below)...you can use a room divider to enclose the shower room and then drop the fixture into the opening.  It works well...and the door looks similar to the picture of a shower door that I posted above.  

Glass Shower Door Fixture:  Glass Shower Door Fixed.calibz

Pics - Glass wall and Barn Door

Pics - Door is a "Fixture"

7 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

 

I was just playing on Scott's previous comment but I don't write the software so I am hoping it will also be an option in X12.  But for now there is always 2D cad and numerous 3D workarounds that have been discussed here on the forum that sometimes get worked into future versions of the software.

 

 

Got it.  Thanks for clarifying...

53 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

 

There is an easy way to fix that Steve.   Just have your windows show as open.  Wow thanks to Scott this just became a suggestion thread.

Uh...show me where that is located in the window DBX.  I can't find that option...

37 minutes ago, wjmdes said:

Correct, but then you need to determine the vertical distance the roof needs to be raised or lowered.  Not a big deal, just a pain.  Not sure who came up with the idea of where Chief has put the baseline, but the 100% most logical place would be on the inside of the stud wall at the top of the double top plate.  That point generally will not move when a pitch is changed or if a larger rafter is used.

Uh...that's what I thought at first but...if you give this some thought it's not true.  You are assuming all rafters will sit on the double top plate at the top of the wall...but, what if you raise the roof so that it is actually sitting on top of the plate of an "attic wall"?  Which happens all the time.  Also...how thick is the wall...what depth have you set the "seat cut" to...and, what is the roof pitch and rafter depth.  There are a lot of variables.

Chief has to be able to place a polyline box (the rafter) at the correct pitch and I think the only consistent point to "spring" the box from is the "baseline" point I've shown above.  The software will always know where this point is.  Yes...it's not "logical" to those of us that designed roofs for years with paper and pencil.  I'm right there with you...but, you have to figure out how the software works and then make it work for you.

I think you may want to create a cad detail.  Draw your roof on top of the wall...at the pitch you want..or create multiple sections if you are using different roof pitches...and calculate the roof baseline elevation in this detail...then transfer this info to your roof building dialogue.