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If you do a session would you be able to record it? I am just finishing up a design that is going to require cross purlins for ventilation on the sloped roof sections. I am redoing this plan because it was started 2 versions ago and while setting up I wasn't sure how to do that portion of the roof. This sounds exactly what I need to know. If not, I will try doing a trial plan the way both you and Michael suggest.

It certainly is a timesaver. Thank you for the idea Perry and Joe for passing the test!

Thank you Joe. I will do that for this job and then I will have them for a future job. I use a modified Save As system but plan on doing an entirely new template when the next version is out. Your explanation is certainly easier to follow than the Help files.

I did a bunch of text Macros on my last plan using text macro management. I thought I read that this is something Perry used and it seemed to be a practical way to do some of these mundane but necessary items. Now, working on another drawing that needs these same notes, I find they are not available. Do I have to import and export these to every new plan if they are not from the same template? I thought user Macros were program, not plan specific. i can always block them on the old plan, make them symbols and put them in library folders but I really dislike using the library for notes. I have tried to use Help guidance but I don't seem to be able to comprehend. I think I hate typing as much as Perry!

If you highlight the referenced plan you don't want, you can put in the current plan just as you would with a "save as". Having 2 of the same file as the referenced one hasn't been a problem the couple times I have had to do it. Maybe someone can tell me if this is an issue.

I have just had this happen on a plan I am completing. All of the electrical was correct and sent to layout. I saved the plan and layout then opened this morning to find all of my automatic 3 way switches had disconnected. If I pull the connection away from the switch the 3 way reappears. I have send a message into support but was wondering if anyone else has seen this lately.

As Maureen says, use Terrain Regions. In combination with retaining walls, they are very stable and easy to work with.

It appears zooming right in makes the difference. I will experiment with Glenn's snap distance at different zoom levels to find what will work best for me. Thanks for all the input.

My snap distance setting is at 6 and grid snaps are off. If I zoom right in, slowly drag down the wall, I can get it to snap but it definitely takes longer than 1 second! I opened one of my plans that I started in X9 and it was exactly the same. I will keep trying. For now, using a seperate dim. string and lining it up is faster if I have more than 1 wall to pick up.

Thanks everyone. I'll give those suggestions a try first thing tomorrow morning.

Auto-dimensions work as expected and so does manual as long as I don't try adding more after they are placed. There seems to be a location on the interior walls where it picks up the center point but not at the joint where it intersects the exterior wall. I can always get it to work with some guesswork but I guess I have to work out the point that it picks up. I have everything turned on that is needed so I'll hunt up a video on dimensioning when I I have a few extra minutes. I'll also try a couple different plans as this one has been brought forward from X8 for final Con Docs. @Brown Tiger. I've found dragging the diamond along the interior wall eventually finds the center but I'd just like to know if there is a simple location instead of dragging the mouse until it snaps If I can't work it out, I'll post a plan!

I have my manual dimension defaults set for interior walls center measurements. When I run a dimension string it picks up everything correctly but!!!! If I try to extend the string or want to pick up another wall that is offset I cannot snap to the wall center. It goes to either side of the main layer. If I move the diamond selection handle in and out on the wall, it will occasionally pick up the center but I haven't been able to find where that exact point is to make it work on a regular basis. I have double checked with the defaults and that I have it correct in the Annotation Set that I am using for my CDs. I have searched for a solution but haven't found anything to help. I find, doing construction document dimensions that I need to do this to simplify the plans for the contractor but it is taking way to long with this hit and miss problem. Do I have to do separate strings of dimensions for this, line them up and delete the double dimensions?

What name would find a generator in the library? I find the search engine in Chief's library very poor.

Pas de probleme. (My french is very rusty.) I'm glad you're retirement was boring. Its nice to see you back on the forum.

Open the Layout (Save as the New Name), go to Tools, Layout, Referenced Plan Files. Browse for the correct plan file. Make sure both these files are in the same folder under the new name.

Open the top floor and adjust it using the floor defaults. Work down from the top floor. If some of your rooms are not set to default, you will have to do that first.

Thank you "Miss Prissy Pants". I remember starting on Chief a few years ago after moving from another software program. I was in the middle of a busy season and terrified I was going to ask newbie questions that I should have known how to do after reading the technical manual (good luck on that one). I received wonderful help on this forum and made it through my deadlines and that first year because of it. Lately I have noticed many new users have been directed to find old threads or just "read the manual and/or work through it". We have a forum to help each other and if we can't or won't, we just shouldn't post.

Glad you like it. Took an entire lunch hour plus a little time to convert back and forth from metric to imperial so I knew what I was doing:-) There is plenty of room to also work in a stacking washer/dryer, if you would like laundry on the main level. Spaces may have to be rearranged to suit your building materials and standards but at least it is an open public area with a more separate private area. Rooflines can be very simple and still not look like a box.

Here is a, hopefully, slightly more useful layout.

I had a quick look at your plan yesterday. Without knowing what you are trying to accomplish it is hard to comment but presuming you are trying to put in a seperate/future? in-law suite, the garage access should be moved and many walls can be eliminated or opened up to give a much better flow. Some of the room sizes are excessively large in comparison to their use (ie. Powder Room). Having an improved use of space can reduce the house footprint, thus decreasing cost, without sacrificing the feeling of spaciousness. Excess size, without purpose, never feels right once built. I totally agree with Richard, you will be spending way too much money on a design that could be so much better.

I have asked for this since I started using Chief. You will be told to use the arrow keys but, as you know, this is not anywhere near what is needed. Post in the suggestion forum and I will add a comment again but it seems to be low on the list. Every program I use has auto scroll except for Chief!

This is what Tech Support is for. Give them a call and they will definitely help.

Similar to Joey. Those are standard door heights that most of the builders use. Custom built-up door and window units can be done at any height to work with interior and exterior balance. Basement windows are often up at the sill plate level with headers built into the floor system.

Once again thank you. I thought that's what I did in my very first attempt at joining them (I think the extra wall is there from one of the other attempts) but I will certainly give it another try.

Thank you. How did you get it to go in square? I tried for most of an hour and it kept trying to angle or mess up the basement corner.