WhistlerBuilder

No Automatic Railing Or Invisible Wall For Room Division?

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Is there a way to make decks or "room" areas with open walls not have a 4 1/2" invisible wall or railing section as its perimeter. This is incredibly annoying as it changes the dimensions of rooms and it effects the intersection of this space with other perimeter walls.

 

Every time I change it back to "room divider" with a 0" wall profile it automatically changes to the 4 1/2" profile. This has created a large number of problems for me across multiple projects.

 

Chief's help department was useless with their reply "It is just going to automatically do that tough luck". I was hoping some experienced professionals here had a work around.

 

Looking forward to hearing from someone.

Cheers,

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......Every time I change it back to "room divider" with a 0" wall profile it automatically changes to the 4 1/2" profile........

 

 

Very annoying.  

 

I would suggest you create A NEW WALL THAT IS 1/16" thick, one layer thick, material being OPENING NO MATERIAL,    this will be your new "ROOM DIVIDER",  I think you will find this works pretty good.  Put it on it's own layer,  turn the layer on,  give the layer a thicker line weight,  and this will then also serve as your room definer in plan view.

 

I get it,  the wall you are trying to use defaults to 4-1/2" thick,  very annoying.....  create a new wall type.

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Michael,  you deleted your post, you had a relevant post.

 

I did experience the wall reverting to 4-1/2"thick  phenomena when I was working on the DECK PLAN that someone was having issues with.

 

It's not common,  and I cannot explain why it happens,  but I have seen the wall revert back to the 4-1/2" thickness.

 

Anyway,  i think you and I are on the same page,  the OP should create his own 1/16" thick wall.

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Michael,  you deleted your post, you had a relevant post.

 

I did experience the wall reverting to 4-1/2"thick  phenomena when I was working on the DECK PLAN that someone was having issues with.

 

It's not common,  and I cannot explain why it happens,  but I have seen the wall revert back to the 4-1/2" thickness.

 

Anyway,  i think you and I are on the same page,  the OP should create his own 1/16" thick wall.

 

Ya,  I deleted my post because it seemed like you were saying the same thing and you posted first (I was actually typing mine up when you posted). 

 

I guess the only thing I posted that you didn't was that I don't personally have that problem and that perhaps if the OP attached a plan we might be able to figure something out. 

 

How about it OP?  Can you attach a plan?

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The thicker wall occurs when there's a floor or ceiling height difference between the rooms.  The it changes to the wall thickness above or below.  Do a section cut thru that division wall and you'll understand.

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When there is no floor or ceiling height difference it still changes it. When changing to the thicker wall profile it also changes the length of walls abutting to it and fucks up the design by giving the wrong information to the trades building it. The area I am running into the most problems with this is in a very simple airport hanger I am tasked with designing. It's basically a box with a sloped roof and the front and back "walls" open so planes can be dragged in and out. The software constantly "builds" these "walls" and shortens the actual walls that support the roof on the sides. It is so frustrating and has increased the costs in time for this simple project.

 

I have tried creating a new wall profile with a 0" and a 1/16" thickness and it still is not working. It auto changes it back to 4 1/2" and screws up the adjacent wall lengths.

I am also having trouble getting the roof joists to span laterally while the software constantly wants them to go front to back even though there is no supporting walls on the front and back. Its pretty stupid.

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Please post the Plan.  We can't tell what's going on without the Plan.  Also, please refrain from using bad language - it's not called for.

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Please post the Plan.  We can't tell what's going on without the Plan.  Also, please refrain from using bad language - it's not called for.

Totally agree.  Not even sure how those words made it through.  Seems to me like they usually automatically get edited out by the system. 

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Plan

Try again.  Make sure to close the plan before trying to attach, and make sure to click "Attach This File".

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changing the wall type from 0" to 1/16" seems to work. I couldn't get it to work before and it is working now. I am still having the issue trying to get the ceiling joists to go laterally, but that would be a separate issue.

Thank you Dshall!

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...I am still having the issue trying to get the ceiling joists to go laterally, but that would be a separate issue...

Not sure exactly what you are trying to accomplish, however if you're talking about getting rafters or trusses to run parallel with the length of the building...

I've never needed to do that and just messing around with it for a couple minutes I wasn't able to make it happen automatically. You can however manually create a rafter or truss though using Build>Framing>Rafter (or Roof Truss). Once created you can use the Multiple Copy tool or Transform Replicate to distribute it as necessary.

Edit: Better yet, do as Scott suggests below.

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........I am still having the issue trying to get the ceiling joists to go laterally, but that would be a separate issue.

......

 

Use the joist direction tool.

post-50-0-98905100-1453320141_thumb.png

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Use the joist direction tool.

 

Thanks Scott.  I thought there had to be a way.  I very rarely draw up framing and so I haven't really explored the framing tools all that much. 

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WhistlerBuilder, on 20 Jan 2016 - 10:47 AM, said:

plan one more time

I can't tell you why, but for some reason, when you try changing your wall definition for your wall type "STUPID" to give it a zero thickness, it reverts to the "Interior-4" wall type (as you said). If you change the "Interior-4" to a zero thickness, the zero thickness works. Once you do that, you can change back to your zero thickness "STUPID" or "Room Divider" and it seems to work except if you open up the wall it is still "Interior-4".  Feels buggy to me.  Unless I'm missing something, this seems like one to submit to tech support as a bug. 

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I tried the joist direction tool multiple times and I cant get it to work. I am sure I am doing something wrong.

 I could get it to work for ceiling and floor joists but not for rafters or trusses. 

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Thank you Alaskan Son. I had messed around with it like that before and gotten similar results but changing the interior 4 to zero spooked me because i had other interior 4 walls and it was messing things up.

 

The 1/16" is working for now. I just need to figure out how to get the joist direction tool to work for me. Other people are getting it to work so I guess I need to tweek some settings or something.

 

Thank you all for your responses. You are all very helpful!

 

Cheers,

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Thank you Alaskan Son. I had messed around with it like that before and gotten similar results but changing the interior 4 to zero spooked me because i had other interior 4 walls and it was messing things up...

 

I couldn't find any other interior-4 walls in the plan.  Am I missing something?  If you're worried about it affecting other plans, don't be.  Those settings are entirely plan specific.  The only settings that affect all plans (global settings) are found under Preferences.

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 I could get it to work for ceiling and floor joists but not for rafters or trusses. 

 

Rafters do not work  with joist direction tool.  Rafters always run perpendicular to slope.  If you want to change the rafter direction,  make the  rafter spacing at 4.65 miles on center,  and then draw the manual rafters.  Not perfect,  but should take only a minute or  2.

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Rafters do not work  with joist direction tool.  Rafters always run perpendicular to slope.  If you want to change the rafter direction,  make the  rafter spacing at 4.65 miles on center,  and then draw the manual rafters.  Not perfect,  but should take only a minute or  2.

 

That's kinda what I said to do earlier (manual framing) but I thought you had provided a better way...I guess not.  No need to even place rafter spacing at all though if you're framing manually right?  Just don't build any auto roof framing. 

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Just re-read the original post with regard to joists directions and it appears as if though you might be referring to actual ceiling joists (as opposed to rafters or trusses).  If this is the case,  the problem you're likely experiencing is because your rooms are defined as having no ceilings...so there is no ceiling to frame.  Check "Ceiling Over This Room" and it frames just fine...

post-46-0-60707600-1453324490_thumb.png

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