Making All Duplicated Elements Show Up In Their Own Layer?

[DaViper]

Realizing some issues in editable features in the software, I think I might be able to work around this limitation by defining any duplicates in a separate layer where I could turn on only that layer for deletion and rebuild them.  This was realized when creating multiple wood studs.  I am unable to go back and change their spacing later and the base level of studs must be defined correctly. 

 

I build up my base level of studs, then used the paint features to move all the elements over to a new layer that I created.  I wanted to then have all duplicates show up in yet another layer so I could turn on only those duplicates for deletion but the software seems to want to keep those duplicates in the same layer as what is being created. 

 

Are there any simple work arounds here?  I was wondering if I could possibly make a duplicate of the master elements in a duplicate layer so at least the master layer would still exist?  Or can you only have 1 element in 1 layer, and not doubled up? 

[rlackore]

I am unable to go back and change their spacing later and the base level of studs must be defined correctly. 

 

You can change the stud spacing in a framed wall by modifying the Main Layer Material Definition to use framing at a different spacing, then rebuild the wall's framing.

[Joe_Carrick]

It would help if you could explain why you want/need to do this?

 

Note:  There are 2 different ways to set the Stud Spacing:

 

1.  Use different Wall Types (where the Framing Material has the Spacing)

2.  In the Wall Framing Defaults:

  a.  Uncheck (Use Wall Framing Material)

  b.  Set Stud Spacing to the desired distance.

[DaViper]

You can change the stud spacing in a framed wall by modifying the Main Layer Material Definition to use framing at a different spacing, then rebuild the wall's framing.

 

 

Sorry, maybe I should have reposted in my previous thread but this is a pole barn design in which the wall girts are horizontal.  I could find no other way than generate the base girt at the correct dims, setback, and position, then translate those up the wall.  I guess it is possible that I went about this the wrong way.  ? 

 

Joe, this has not presented an issue as of yet but due to some changes in wall height and main top beam, I am sure we will need to edit the spacing slightly.  I think more than anything I am trying to define some of my own efficient methods for working with pole barn design. 

 

 

I asked previously about adding notched saddle features in the top of the poles for the trusses.  That is something I could probably live without on the main model but I will have to build a separate detail sheet for that.  It would require it anyway I guess.  Just getting more familiar with "custom" work in Chief. 

[Joe_Carrick]

DaViper,

 

It would help to communicate if you would edit your signature so we have a name (at the very least).

 

IAE, Pole Barn design similar to Log Structures pose unique problems since they are not  "conventional" framing.

 

I'm not very familiar with the Pole Barn Structure, but I do Log Homes occasionally and I use some very different techniques for those.

 

1.  I use a Wall Type that's just a single layer transparent material about 8"-9" thick for the Log Walls.  It's kind of like a solid concrete wall except that it's transparent instead of being concrete.

2.  I insert all the Doors and Windows in those walls.

3.  I superimpose Log Symbols on the transparent walls and stack them just as if I was building the walls in real life.

 

I think for a Pole Barn Structure a similar process might be appropriate.  OTOH, it would be nice if Chief had a "Horizontal Girt" or "Horizontal Furring" material type that could be defined in a wall similar to how the Stud Framing material is defined.  Then it could be a Layer within the Wall Definition.

[DaViper]

Here is the basic layout of walls.  My design uses a flush wall configuration. 

[glennw]

Joe,

You can do this by using the Wall Bridging tool.

Either on a separate wall layer or on the same wall layer as the studs or posts.

[Joe_Carrick]

Glenn,

 

So basically you did that with a double wall and eliminated all the studs (except the first and last) and then bridged between those two studs.  It's not quite the same as a uniformly spaced "furring" layer in the wall type.

[glennw]

Joe,

 

No, only one wall.

The wall definition has 2 main framing layers - a material with normal studs for the inner layer and a material with studs at very large centres for the outside or "purlin" layer.

In a wall detail view, I used the Wall Bridging tool to draw the purlins in the outer wall layer.

 

 "It's not quite the same as a uniformly spaced "furring" layer in the wall type."

 

No, not the same, but gets the job done quickly with tools like multiple copy. And there is even several choices in the dbx to Rotate and locate the purlin. 

[rlackore]

Why not a molding polyline? It works great if you don't have a lot of openings. This shows a single molding polyline comprising the skirt board, girts, and truss carriers. The posts are defined by the wall's framing material:

 

[HamlinBC]

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/7401-construction-of-home-inside-pole-barn-do-we-start-with-walls-or-bare-framing/

 

My last post there shows that you can use general framing members to create the poles and the purlins.  This method would still work even if your purlins are flush to the outside of the poles...you just have more framing members to draw, which isn't hard to duplicate with Ctrl+C, Ctrl+Alt+V, and then pt-pt move them to the next bay.

 

I've tried getting the material and editing all the defaults to get it to auto build correctly, and in the end a polebarn is easier to manually draw to get it exact.